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We have a 1986 f150 with the 302 in it. When we first got it, there were no problems. Then.....I drove it back and forth like normal and it would spit and sputter and act like a filter needed to be changed. So changed the filter(s) and thought we had it. Nope. I went to town and it ran fine going the 30 miles over. But when I left the parking lot it started acting up again. I didnt make it out of town when I knew there was NO making it home. My husband works there and he met me and tinkered with it. There is fuel through out the lines, and even to the top of the intake where the lines are at up there. It is getting fuel at a good pressure to the top of the engine. But it seems like when it is drove for a long period of time it will spit and sputter and die. So he got it running better. Thought he had it figured out. I made it almost home and then 4 blocks before home it just died. I could start it but the time you put your foot into it a bit it would die again. So I left it there till he got home. Then we went to tow it back to the house and it started and drove fine. I even put my foot into it to see if it was a low idle thing or what. Nope nothing wrong with it at this point in time. I drove it around a few more times just back and forth to the store and no problems. But on saturday my kid went yard saling with me and it acted like it was out of gas. So I changed tanks and nothing. We thought that the tank might not be working or the switch. So we went and got gas and tried it. Nope, and then it started, I went to take off and it died. Had to be towed home. The next day it started. We are at a loss and un sure of what this things issue is. If anyone has ANY clues please send them our way. Thank you in advance!
The engine is fuel injected correct? You need to pull the codes from the computer and see what it says. Here's a site that will help you with that. Ford Fuel Injection
Subscribing... My one truck does exactly the same thing. No codes, new fuel pumps both tanks, and new pump in the rail, new relay, and all grounds have been cleaned and replaced
I have heard of cars doing this before because someone put something inside the tanks, like a paper towel, or sanitary napkin. It kills the fuel flow for awhile, then after sitting for awhile the vehicle will start and run fine until all the fuel gets stirred up again. Just a thought. To fix it they had to drop their tank and flush it out, then it was fine.
You have to pull the codes. After that, you can make educated guesses. You said you checked and had fuel at the fuel rail. It could well be the ignition module. That is still just a guess. The computer may throw a code to lead to the ignition module though. That's the way to do it. Don't be intimidated by the thought of pulling the codes.
franklin pretty much said the same thing ignition module. I had pretty much the same thing happen to my 87 mustang and the grease that gose on the back of it was no longer there and when the car got hot it would run like crap. fortunately the part dosnt coast no more then 25 bucs. And you local autozone or advanced auto can test them to see if they are bad and that coast nothing. Deff pull the codes on the truck and keep us posted
Check to see if your air temperature sensor is hooked up or if one of the wires is broken.
My truck would drive fine cold but after it was warm it felt like it was running out of gas. As soon as I got the sensor replaced and the wires solid the truck was right as rain.
Here's your sensor.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12547810@N06/5656306308/" title="IMG01584 by paulw_wv, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5656306308_019d690900.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG01584"></a>
throwing parts at is costly way to fix it you need to follow systamatic approch to problem.
when its running bad is the "check engine" light on?
If not only codes stored would be in memory and not really much help at this time. If light did come on pull codes and post the codes.
When it dies / wont start check for spark at coil and plug wires. Got good blue spark and wont start not igniton system.
Invest in fuel pressure gauge (cheap one at Harbor freight only about $20.00 but worth the investment. Fuel pressure should be about 35-45PSI measured at schrader valve on fuel rail (just depressing valve and seeing fuel spray out does not count and is slightly dangereous)
After confirming these areas should be able to guide in more detailed testing of faulty area.
So the light does NOT come on when this problem happens. We will be tinkering with it in the next day and see what we can get as far as codes. But like it was said if the light didnt come on then that wont be much help So off to checking some of the other items that you guys have mentioned. Thanks for all the help. Keep it coming if something comes up that you think might help Im game!
damn stand corrected on light been awhile since I have had to trouble shoot one of these and mine is still unpowered as yet so yup pulll codes but also determine if fuel of igniton problem
Okay. I have the same truck, I had the exact same problem with the working fine and acting stupid. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. It's in between the intake manifold and air box on the fuel rail. 20 bucks to fixed it. Before I replaced that, I bought a new Fuel pump internal(front and rear tank) and external, fuel filter, distributor & wires (thought it was a spark problem for a while), EGR valve (was throwing a code for it), blew the fuel lines with compressed air (thought it was clogged) and none of that worked. Guy at Autozone said "You've done almost everything, have you changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator." Replaced that and I've been a happy camper since. Well my gas tank started leaking but that's another story.