Being new to the 6.0 world I have several questions:

1) My auto parts guy sayz I need to add a sulfur additive because fuel is low sulphur. Do I need this and what will it do for me other than make my fill-ups cost more.

2) Same guy sayz I need Cetane Boost. I understand the winter advantage of fighting jelling but It's 100 degrees out here. Any clear advantage this time of year other than boosting his Cetane Boost sales?

3) Just been reading about the type motor oil to use in my diesel. Sam's sells Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15/40 oil in 6 gallon packs for $75.00. My truck takes 15 quarts plus filter. With tax that makes a 50.00 oil change plus $19.00 for a filter. What advantage would there be turning that into an $80.00 oil change using T6?

4) Finally, Ford recommends 7,500 miles between oil changes when using non-synthetic oil yet many here say 6000 miles. Why?

Thanks for the help. For 35 years I kept diesel locomotives going for UP Railroad and I never wanted that smell in my home.....until I tried pulling my 34 foot fifth wheel with my F250 V10. Guess I can live with the smell!

 

You do not need a sulfur additive.

A "clean burn" is important to a vehicle that recycles the exhaust gas. A cetane boosting additive is insurance. You may or may not benefit from it.

Is the Shell Triple Protect a diesel oil (CI4+ or higher rated)? Rotella T6 5W40 is a preferred oil IMO. The T6 is reasonably priced for a synthetic. Any diesel rated 5W40 will do well in the 6.0L though. You need a good oil because the injectors use the engine oil to actuate a plunger hydraulically and they have some very tight spaces. Clean oil is very important. That being said, many people have done well w/ a 15W40, but IMO you risk developing injector stiction (oil latching of the injector spool valves) with it.

You may not actually take 15 quarts. Fill it w/ 14 and then see if it will take the last quart - some do and some don't.

The oil change intervals of 5000 miles are recommended because of several reasons:
1. Clean oil is important as previously stated
2. The HPOP system will shear most oils and the viscosity will decline. After 5000 miles, most oils have dropped at least one classification (ie a 40W will be a 30W). While a 5W40 performing like a 5W30 is not the end of the world, you do lose some protection when working the engine hard.

Remember also, diesel engines will always experience a little fuel dilution of the oil. You can also build soot or particulates in it. Proper oil change intervals will be a good investment IMO. I go 5k miles. Oh - and always use OEM filters (Racor, motorcraft, or International, and Fram is an OEM filter also - according to a Fram executive).

 

Jake, you found (in my opinion) the best resource for 6.0s on the internet.

Make a pot of coffee-it's still pretty early in Utah-and search around the site, there's a wealth of useful info to be found here.

The biggest thing with the 6.0 is to ignore the conventional diesel "wisdom" because this is far from a conventional diesel motor. What works on a 7.3 or Cummins isn't necessarily good for a 6.0.

Congratulations on your new purchase.

 

Stay on top of the maintenance as Mark stated and use only OEM filters. Will fits, A/M's, can ruin this engine.

 

The above statement basically sums up why the 6.0 has such a bad rep. If you don't know some very specific maintenance procedures you will ruin it. There are also many things you have to 'watch'. In my opinion, a good engine shouldn't require such things but it is what it is, and if you want this motor to treat you well you have to pay to play.

 

No, but a good additive like Diesel Kleen will add lubricity that is lost in the sulfur removal process. You don't need sulfur, but you may benefit from added lubricity.

I believe in adding Cetane. I like Diesel Kleen because it is easily available at Walmart, Sams, Costco, etc. at a good price.

Shella Rotella T is a good conventional.

I believe the Shella Rotella T-6 is worth the extra money.

You will see better cold temperature starts in the winter with the T-6 full synthetic. I like the protection year round that the synthetic provides. But it will NOT extend your change interval IMO.

If you check your manual you will find that severe duty calls for 5,000 mile intervals. Just about everyone falls under severe duty.

 

OK everyone, thanks for the help. I took the "T" back to Sam's, went next door to Wally World and picked up 4 gallons of "T6" for $21 per. I should have gone that route to start with, I have 190,000 miles on my 99 F250 V10 and it's had Mobile 1 it's whole life.