I have not heard of the chambers falling out being a problem. I am not sure, but I am thinking they can't fall out when the head is installed, but I am not sure. I have never heard of it being a problem though.

The early 6.9's(like 83ish) had problems with the block cracking around the block heater mounting hole. They fixed that with a casting change pretty quickly on the later year models.

The 6.9's used smaller head bolts. This is not a problem if the engine is kept stock, or a normal turbo kit is installed on the engine with reasonable boost levels. The smaller bolts become a problem when peolpe hot rod the engine and raise the boost levels of the turbo way up. But there are stud kits to fix this problem.

With a engine this old, you are going to find the standard problems. That will be some oil leaks, and probably some maintenance will be needed on the glowplug system and the fuel injection return line system. After that, it will be reliable, if the rest of the truck doesn't fall apart around the engine.

 

ok thanks alot for all your advice. i do plan on putting a turbo on the truck put keep it to 10 lbs boost and turn up the injection pump to.

 

I have a 1985 f350, 6.9idi 4 sod.
I have replaced both batteries, alternator, voltage regulator. And the alternator still isn't charging. What could possibly be the problem? It has a have that says d-c and it stays in the middle. But it drains the battery. Is my daily driver and need to figure it out asap

 

Welcome to FTE
I take it the gauge stays in the middle and if so I think that is an AMP gauge.
All the ones I have seen in many a car & truck don't move much.


Now have you checked the out put of the charging system with a DVOM and if so what does it read?


Now the system can be charging but as you pointed out have a drain that is sucking the volts out of the batts.


That is an easy check with a test light. Disconnect 1 for the batt leads and put the test light between batt. and the cable. Depending how bright the light lights up is how much of a drain you have.


First you need to do this test with the doors closed so the light does not come on as this will show as a drain. With that said the inside lights are off right?


Now remove 1 fuse at a time checking the test light to see if it went out or is not as bright. The fuse you pull and the test light goes out is the area you will have to check into why it is causing the drain.
Dave ----

 

Do you have a voltmeter? Put it on the batteries with the engine off and take a reading. Then start the engine and with running take another reading on the batteries. What do you get? Is the voltage higher with the engine running?