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It is truly amazing when a customer working in his home garage without the benefit of so called Ford engineering expertise can come up with a possible solution to the 10 year old "Death Wobble". My hat is off to you Epic. Ford needs to get with the program before some product liability attorney drags them into court like they did with the ignition fires.
Oh yea, don't forget about the Pinto gas tanks and the model T starter problems.
I have been researching the "death wobble" this week since my son has a Jeep that has been having some problems. This is the first time I have heard of this other than on Jeeps.
From what I have found out this is typically something loose or damaged on the front end. Many times a loose tracbar. The steering stabilizer, from what I have been able to find out, has nothing to do with a true death wobble. It may help reduce it but it is only covering up another issue that is causing it. Also, a true death wobble can only be stopped by coming to almost a complete stop. If it stops with just a speed reduction then it is not a death wobble.
Again, this is just what I have found from researching it on Jeeps which seem prone to it especially with larger tires.
Oh yea, don't forget about the Pinto gas tanks and the model T starter problems.
I bet those poor folks that got burned to death and disfigured are happy Ford did such a good job with those gas tanks. Product liability issues began in the early 60's so I guess your Model T doesn't qualify. Glug glug glug
So what's my problem then? I can replicate the issue and report back with a video if you need one.
Sorry lexustbs, I didn't mean to suggest that an alignment couldn't help your situation. It was more of a comment on the constant Ford bashing without credible proof.
As Rick said, front end alignment is a good place to start. If you have the pathetic "Rancho" shocks on your truck, better shocks also help. I am going to assume that you are still covered by a warranty, but this is one of those issues that takes a good tech that actually wants to do something for you. It's too easy for a lazy tech to say that he cannot replicate the problem.
Got ya. I'm trying the Bilsteins and do the camber. I'll report back after these two fixes. Thanks for the advice guys.
lexustbs,
Assuming you still have warranty on your truck, did you consider taking it to the Ford shop. I would think the techs would have experience with this problem and may know exactly how to fix the issue and would be no cost to you.
I speculate that there are at least two DW types. 1. Track bar not holding vehicle laterally over the axle. 2. R front wheel pushing on a too weak steering pump, which spring loads and pushes back pulling the L front wheel along with it which follows through with mass to over push the too weak steering pump and pushes back with repeat.
I know that new tires will make my DW go away for 10-12 months. I just had my 18 month old tires balanced by a guy who knew I had DW and was meticulous and put weights on both the inside and outside of my front rims (which have too large an offset which likely contributes to the problem.
As Turbostew said (above articles) only way to stop a mass from rebounding is to dampen it before it starts.
Got ya. I'm trying the Bilsteins and do the camber. I'll report back after these two fixes. Thanks for the advice guys.
You'll want to increase the CASTER first and then align the CAMBER and TOE as necessary. A good alignment technician will not just simply restore factory specs, he will adjust for your local roads and driving needs. There's almost an art to it. Setting caster is finding the proper balance between shopping cart wheels that turn every direction at the slightest input vs. the ape hanger chopper type steering that takes 4 lanes to turn but tracks straight as an arrow. Did that make sense? Camber is the "plumb-ness" of the wheel in comparison to vertical. Toe is in or out like that pigeon toed girl in 2nd grade or that bow-legged cowboy coming in off the range. Their toes are either in or out or somewhere in between.
Sorry for the elementary illustrations but this is how I remember how these elements work together. It also helps to understand the complicated front end geometries when you're talking to the technician.
You'll want to increase the CASTER first and then align the CAMBER and TOE as necessary. A good alignment technician will not just simply restore factory specs, he will adjust for your local roads and driving needs. There's almost an art to it. Setting caster is finding the proper balance between shopping cart wheels that turn every direction at the slightest input vs. the ape hanger chopper type steering that takes 4 lanes to turn but tracks straight as an arrow. Did that make sense? Camber is the "plumb-ness" of the wheel in comparison to vertical. Toe is in or out like that pigeon toed girl in 2nd grade or that bow-legged cowboy coming in off the range. Their toes are either in or out or somewhere in between.
Sorry for the elementary illustrations but this is how I remember how these elements work together. It also helps to understand the complicated front end geometries when you're talking to the technician.
I have a 70 GS that is pretty stock and handled like 1970 Gm a BODY. I knew a mechanic that spent some time on a NASCAR crew. This was the late 80s. Anyway he aligned my car and did something with castor, he would never say what. Some kind of secret. Anyway we lost touch and noone has ever been able to replicate it, Was a world of difference