New Old Truck
#1
New Old Truck
Okay, here is my tale. I bought a 2003, F-350, 5.4 liter, manual, crew cab that looked brand new about two years ago from the original owner. Wife hated it since day one because it was manual, right after I bought it work gave me a 2008 F-150 as the company car, and gas shot up so I traded it in on a Ford Fiesta.
So I've been hankering for another pickup since and been looking at older Fords as I've been a Ford guy since I was hooked by my first vehicle-a 58 F100 beater. Just got lucky, I think, as my dad talked to his neighbor who owns a farm and has a 1974 F100, that he bought new.
In 1993 with about 100k on the odometer, he parked the truck at his farm because he bought a 1984, C10 and the Ford was putting out alot of grey smoke. His family called the Ford old smokey, but it was still running when he parked it. Claims not much rust but it hasn't been used since it was parked and I'm getting it basically at scrap value. I'm going tomorrow to see him and get the title.
So finally here is my question. What should I do first to see if it runs. Obviously I need a battery, and I'm guessing the engine wasn't doing very well before he parked it. It's an automatic with a V-8 that he claims is a 351C. I'm guessing it's a 360 as it's the original engine and trans.
I apologize for the long post and appreciate any and all help as I've not done any wrenching on a car since the early to mid 80's and even then it was basic stuff.
So I've been hankering for another pickup since and been looking at older Fords as I've been a Ford guy since I was hooked by my first vehicle-a 58 F100 beater. Just got lucky, I think, as my dad talked to his neighbor who owns a farm and has a 1974 F100, that he bought new.
In 1993 with about 100k on the odometer, he parked the truck at his farm because he bought a 1984, C10 and the Ford was putting out alot of grey smoke. His family called the Ford old smokey, but it was still running when he parked it. Claims not much rust but it hasn't been used since it was parked and I'm getting it basically at scrap value. I'm going tomorrow to see him and get the title.
So finally here is my question. What should I do first to see if it runs. Obviously I need a battery, and I'm guessing the engine wasn't doing very well before he parked it. It's an automatic with a V-8 that he claims is a 351C. I'm guessing it's a 360 as it's the original engine and trans.
I apologize for the long post and appreciate any and all help as I've not done any wrenching on a car since the early to mid 80's and even then it was basic stuff.
#3
#4
Unless your prepared to dive head first into this truck with pockets full of money, Id stay away from it. My truck was in very good shape and I still have $3000+ in it(bought for $1800) and I do all my own wrenching. The guys at Autozone have memorized my year/make/model if that tells you anything.
#5
Thanks for the quick replies. I will definately do that and the basics are what I need to be told. Any other suggestions are appreciated.
Also, any towing advise is appreciated. The truck will be towed about 100 miles from central Illinois to the southwest side of Chicago (near Oak Lawn, Illinois if anyone knows the area).
Also, any towing advise is appreciated. The truck will be towed about 100 miles from central Illinois to the southwest side of Chicago (near Oak Lawn, Illinois if anyone knows the area).
#6
Thanks for the quick replies. I will definately do that and the basics are what I need to be told. Any other suggestions are appreciated.
Also, any towing advise is appreciated. The truck will be towed about 100 miles from central Illinois to the southwest side of Chicago (near Oak Lawn, Illinois if anyone knows the area).
Also, any towing advise is appreciated. The truck will be towed about 100 miles from central Illinois to the southwest side of Chicago (near Oak Lawn, Illinois if anyone knows the area).
#7
Thanks Devino and Bear for the replies. Probably should take your advice and stay away from it, but I'm going to give it a shot. For better or worse, I hope to learn a few things along the way and work on it every now and then with my two daughters.
I'm only spending $350 for it, but I know costs can add up quick. But I'm in no hurry. I will post pictures once I get it up here, and I'm sure I'll be looking for more advise.
I'm only spending $350 for it, but I know costs can add up quick. But I'm in no hurry. I will post pictures once I get it up here, and I'm sure I'll be looking for more advise.
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#8
#9
I'm expecting to put a fair amount of money into mine, and I'm going to try to do a lot of the work myself. I've got a couple friends who are good with a wrench so I will be picking their brains too. However, I'm sure I have no idea what I'm getting myself into, but that's never really stopped me in the past.
#11
Good. That's what I'm looking for. The truck is purely a project as I've got other options for driving. Been wanting to learn how to wrench since I was a kid but always seemed to be doing something else. But I'm not getting any younger so it's time to start. Hoping to learn a bit about body work too down the road.
#12
Welcome to FTE
The 4th digit of the VIN is the engine code.
A 1974 F100 2WD could have a: 302 2V (G) / 360 2V (Y) / 390 2V (H) or 4V (M) / or a 460 4V (J).
Many sellers have no idea what size the engine is, so...they just guess.
351C: 1970/74 Passenger Cars/Ranchero's only.
The 302 has 6 valve cover bolt holes per side, 360/390: 5; 460: 7.
While "old smokey" might smoke a bit, rust is the major concern with these trucks, and IL uses salt on the roads.
Look for rust in the radiator support mounts, cab mounts, rocker panels, floor pans, drip rails. The lower sections of the front fenders and above the wheel openings front/rear are also prone to rust out.
The bed floors of Styleside pickups is another place to look. No one reproduces bed floors for these trucks.
Rust repair can be much more expensive than an engine overhaul. And, finding rust free sheet metal in the "rust belt" can be a challenge.
The 4th digit of the VIN is the engine code.
A 1974 F100 2WD could have a: 302 2V (G) / 360 2V (Y) / 390 2V (H) or 4V (M) / or a 460 4V (J).
Many sellers have no idea what size the engine is, so...they just guess.
351C: 1970/74 Passenger Cars/Ranchero's only.
The 302 has 6 valve cover bolt holes per side, 360/390: 5; 460: 7.
While "old smokey" might smoke a bit, rust is the major concern with these trucks, and IL uses salt on the roads.
Look for rust in the radiator support mounts, cab mounts, rocker panels, floor pans, drip rails. The lower sections of the front fenders and above the wheel openings front/rear are also prone to rust out.
The bed floors of Styleside pickups is another place to look. No one reproduces bed floors for these trucks.
Rust repair can be much more expensive than an engine overhaul. And, finding rust free sheet metal in the "rust belt" can be a challenge.
#13
Thanks Bill for the great information and the welcome. I'll check those spots. He said it didn't have the 302 so I'm pretty sure it's the 360. I should know by the end of the day. And I know what your saying about the rust belt as I've lived in it my whole life. Had a 1990 F150 that was my first new vehicle, and I had it Ziebart rust protected. Sold it in 1999, and rust was already beginning to pop out at the usual spots.
Pat
Pat
#14
Got a welder? There have been many times that Ive been glad Ive had one. Body work is a love/hate relationship, at least for me.
Ill second Numberdummy's rust warnings. Mine had rusted through on the edge of the back wheel wells and on the passenger side floorboard. Id unscrew the scuff plates and check the metal underneath; thats where my truck was hit the hardest.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=74194
Ill second Numberdummy's rust warnings. Mine had rusted through on the edge of the back wheel wells and on the passenger side floorboard. Id unscrew the scuff plates and check the metal underneath; thats where my truck was hit the hardest.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=74194
#15