stupid ? fuel pump
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
It also sounds like it tried to start to me.
If you do pull it off again, just make sure the arm is angled down when you slide the arm in . If the cam lobe is in the right place it will bolt up with no resistance, if not you will notice it trying to hold the pump at a slight angle.
Answer to diesel fuels question, there would not be enough difference to be noticed, but it does take power, not near as much as the alt, power steering, fan etc.
If you do pull it off again, just make sure the arm is angled down when you slide the arm in . If the cam lobe is in the right place it will bolt up with no resistance, if not you will notice it trying to hold the pump at a slight angle.
Answer to diesel fuels question, there would not be enough difference to be noticed, but it does take power, not near as much as the alt, power steering, fan etc.
Hp=Pressure(PSI) * Volume(GPM)/1714 HP required to flow 1/2 pint in 10 seconds at 7 PSI or 0.00153HP. Assuming 100% frictional losses, that's only .003 HP to be gained by eliminating the Mechanical fuel pump.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 1
Hey Starmilt, I thought you fell off the face of the earth.
Hp=Pressure(PSI) * Volume(GPM)/1714 HP required to flow 1/2 pint in 10 seconds at 7 PSI or 0.00153HP. Assuming 100% frictional losses, that's only .003 HP to be gained by eliminating the Mechanical fuel pump.
Hp=Pressure(PSI) * Volume(GPM)/1714 HP required to flow 1/2 pint in 10 seconds at 7 PSI or 0.00153HP. Assuming 100% frictional losses, that's only .003 HP to be gained by eliminating the Mechanical fuel pump.
And, I figured as much. Not much to be gained other than increased reliability.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 821
From: Mi'kma'ki
Did you install one of the new long arm lift pumps....... it should have come with a HOW TO sheet.......
WARNING
This fuel pump must be installed only at the low position of actuator cam.
If the pump is installed at any other position than low cam, the pump will be ruined, the engine will stall and damage may result.
Incorrect installation will loosen the pivot pin and allows the pin and lever to come out of the pump and drop into the oil pan. This can occur immediately or after several hundred miles. This type of failure is not covered by warranty.
To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror and a remote starter switch. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation.
WARNING
This fuel pump must be installed only at the low position of actuator cam.
If the pump is installed at any other position than low cam, the pump will be ruined, the engine will stall and damage may result.
Incorrect installation will loosen the pivot pin and allows the pin and lever to come out of the pump and drop into the oil pan. This can occur immediately or after several hundred miles. This type of failure is not covered by warranty.
To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror and a remote starter switch. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation.
had you searched,you may have found alternative solutions as well.
there ain't no rod on a block off plate.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Southwest Florida Coast
ok, finally got back to work after 2 days rain, keep in mind I want a garage 4 my b-day.
So I tested fuel flow at the schrader valve and got 1/3 pint in about 8 seconds compared to 1/6 pt in 15 seconds b4. started cranking and got nothing, cracked a couple of injectors and cranked no bubbles and no start. completely disconnected 1st injector on drivers side engine and there is NO fuel coming out. WTF?
So I tested fuel flow at the schrader valve and got 1/3 pint in about 8 seconds compared to 1/6 pt in 15 seconds b4. started cranking and got nothing, cracked a couple of injectors and cranked no bubbles and no start. completely disconnected 1st injector on drivers side engine and there is NO fuel coming out. WTF?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas nevada
Make sure you have 12v going to the Fuel shut off Selinoid .... (FSS) any thing before as far as fuel just means the machanial side of the pump is working I.E. Pressure at schrader valve
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
Can you hear the fuel solenoid clicking. I have also had the ip's seem to air lock before too.
What were the symptoms that led up to you changing the lift pump.
What were the symptoms that led up to you changing the lift pump.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Southwest Florida Coast
truck ran like a tired dog, hard start, died when I let off throttle. so I ran some atf through to clean it and when that didn't work I check flow at the schrader and it was sloooow, checked lines for kinks and leaks and found nothing, RTFM and figured that I needed to change lift pump. spent $150 on oem shop manuals and so far they are worth it
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
It should click when you turn key on one time. The easiest way is to turn the key on and pull the wire off the pump, it should click when you reattach it, you can also leave the key off and use a jumper wire.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Southwest Florida Coast
ok, the noob questions keep just coming. When I'm bleeding the system, I've been trying to bleed 2-3 injectors at once, I crack them, crank for 15-20 secs while I'm loosening them up a little more and then tighten them up after I stop cranking.then I do something else for a few minutes and let the starter cool down and start over. So, last night I was looking at the now wet injectors and realized that all the air I just bled out is getting sucked back in while I tighten them down, right?
So instead of doing 2 or 3 I should do 1 at a time so I can tighten up on it while I'm cranking the engine to avoid sucking air back in, that way 1 line at a time will get bled completely and I can go on to the next one...right?or will doing 1 at a time just prolong a process that has already taken way too long? aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
So instead of doing 2 or 3 I should do 1 at a time so I can tighten up on it while I'm cranking the engine to avoid sucking air back in, that way 1 line at a time will get bled completely and I can go on to the next one...right?or will doing 1 at a time just prolong a process that has already taken way too long? aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Unless I'm mistaken, there are check valves at the injection pump for each line. Besides that, the way the injection pump works, air can't leak back in from the injectors.
So you should be fine doing what you are doing.
So you should be fine doing what you are doing.