I have had good luck doing half the injectors at a time (i.e., all the ones on the left side or all the ones on the right).

 

it's me again, still can't get her going. I have done everything I can think of and it just won't start.I checked fuel flow at the filter head, 1/3 pint in about 8 seconds. I bled the IP , disconnected the left bank of injectors, the line out of the filter head to the IP, one of the injector lines at the IP, and trimmed and replaced the return line that feeds into the filter head (not all at the same time or in that order). I have fuel coming out of the filter head, but can't seem to get anything out of the IP. Is there anything else I can do short of replacing the IP and injectors ($$$), which I think is original at 360+k miles. All the grey paint matches.When I disconnected that line out of the IP, would there be any reason other than a bad pump not to get fuel spraying out? Sorry about babbling, really appreciate all the help.

 

just bumping it up

 

Did you do this?

 

with key, not jumper wire

 

So no fuel coming out of the injector lines at all, or does it seem like there isn't enough pressure from the IP now to make the injectors pop?

I'd also say do the jumper wire from battery to the FSS, just to know that's not the problem.

 

no fuel at all coming out of pump

 

Well, sounds offhand like your FSS isn't letting any fuel through. It clicked okay when you tested with the key?
Seems like even if the extra pressure from the new pump wrecked the IP, you'd still be getting something coming out of those lines, but I'm not an expert on the internals of the IP, so I could be wrong.

 

If there is too much pressure in the IP, it won't pump fuel. Some of the early DB pumps had a plastic bushing that would disintegrate, plugging the outlet. It would create a no start condition. Remove the overflow hose at the top of the IP to see if fuel is coming out there.

Before you burn up your $150.00 starter I'd temporarily install an Electric fuel pump:

Airtex E8090 - Electric Fuel Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts

With it, all you have to do to prme your system is let it run for a half hour and it will push all of the air through the system.

PS:
I've used one to pump the fluid out of my E4OD before dropping the pan. Takes about 30 minutes but it's a lot cleaner.

 

Exactly why I said I wasn't sure, good info to know...

 

ihateminimumwage, question, how does that T-19 do for you? Is it wide-range or close? What gear ratio are you running in your axles?

 

PM sent. Don't want to get off topic while someone is in the middle of a problem.

 

ok, fss is clicking, looked at fast idle solenoid and it HAS got to be original, rust and corrosion rule the day, possible that has anything to do with this?overflow hose at top of IP? where dat?aaaaaaaaaaaaaagh now I'm going to napa to get starter on wife's nissan checked, thinking about buying a horse, at least if I have to shoot it we can have steaks for dinner

 

for some reason I can't access page 3 of this thread unless I go to my email on yahoo, any ideas about that?

 

alright, I'm biting the bullet and replacing the ip and injectors, I assume (I know what it means) I need to replace the FSS and the fast idle solenoid? or can I reuse what I got? I'm planning to buy the pump, reman injectors and the return line kit for about $500 total from Diesel Care Diesel Care Inc
Anybody know anything or bought anything from those guys before, any feedback will be appreciated.
Are the solenoids stealership only items, I can't find them anywhere else?