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WTB: Pulse timing adapter

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #1  
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WTB: Pulse timing adapter

Just to get the word out for those who don't often look at the want to buy section and may be able to help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-fitting.html
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #2  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
this is what Eaton is looking for:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ne-sensor.html
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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IIRC you need the line with the pulse adapter due to the different length.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Why not just get the Ferret adapter that clamps around the #1 injector line in a straight section and then use a std spark engine timing light? It might be a bit more money, but buy it once and you have it for whenever you want to use it. Even if you find a shop that can do it with the right tools, paying them twice is more than buying the tool once. Plus you know exactly what the timing is set at, since you did the work.

I swapped my IP and injectors a few months back. I timed it by ear/luck and had it pretty close, about 4 degrees BTDC is what it measured. I bought the Ferret adapter, from tooldiscounters, and this is how I determined where I was at timing by ear. I was able to set mine exactly with the Ferret tool. It is easy to use, and even setting my timing ahead a few more degrees it made it run even better. I highly suggest to get a timing tool and set the timing as close as possible.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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here are some better pictures of the adapter:





And here it is on the truck (It is just under the fuel filter

 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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After looking at that picture, I think the clown that removed the timing adapter just bent the #1 line down and attached it to the injector. Your #1 does not have a bend like mine does. Great, so now I need a new line, too.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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If the clown just bent it down, you should be able to gently bend it back if you get the adapter from someone. Otherwise you should get a line for a 6.9L engine that didn't have the timing adapter. With that one line a slightly different length, it will affect the timing on that cylinder a little bit.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 03:10 PM
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hmm im gonna have to go take a look at mine i take some pics but cant say i have ever seen it on there is the timing adaptor always supposed to be in place and then removed once timing is done?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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If you have a 7.3L it should be there or on the #4 cylinder if it was an e series engine (came out of a van) as for as I know they were not on the 6.9L engines unless some one added it later
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vfelix702
hmm im gonna have to go take a look at mine i take some pics but cant say i have ever seen it on there is the timing adaptor always supposed to be in place and then removed once timing is done?
Should be in place all the time.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 10:30 PM
  #11  
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Angry big leak

Well at least i know the timimg adapter is called a timimg adapter now. I was having air leak issues so I fib=nally bought and installed a injector rebuild kit and replaced all the orings, caps, clamps, and fuel line. Now using clear fuel line btw. anyway i get it all put back together and fire it up, its starts and idles fine but once i took foot off accelerator to shift from 1st to 2nd when i gave it gas again and started letting out the clutch, it died. Upon looking under hood bleeding air out and getting truck to start again i seen my #1 injector more than leaking, almost pouring out so i figured i musta gotten and installed defective orings so i replaced them again and it still bad bad leak. so i thought that peice that turns out to be a timing adapter was leaking so i removed it and gently bent fuel line down to injector connected it but it still leaked badly. Any idea on what to do next by chance If any of yall are familiar with my threads ive been having problems with this fuel system for months now!! PLZ HELP!!!
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 02:48 PM
  #12  
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Its possible the plastic cap for that injector is cracked, or poorly molded, can happen. If you have the old cap, swap that one on with new o-rings and make sure it really snaps into place. Often times they seem to be on, but not really pressed down all the way. lube the o-rings up with some grease as well. Also you need that timing adapter as it changes the length of the fuel line and will affect the timing on that cylinder.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 06:01 AM
  #13  
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ok gotcha will try that today, thanks for the help
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 07:38 AM
  #14  
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I've had luck putting washers that fit between the line nut and the return cap. That bit of pressure keeping it pressed down can help the cap seal.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Dies...-Point)/MT257B
this is what I bought for timing my trucks. I wasn't willing to wait months or years for a ferret one to pop up for sale. I also don't like buying things like this on eBay where you can't guarantee the operation of it.
 
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