Earlier this year I purchased a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Off Road. It has the 4.0 EFI V6 engine, 5 speed Automatic, with 81,000 miles on it. I am not sure if it is accelerating properly or not. It seems to move fine when I accelerate from a stopped position, but when I attempt to accelerate from 35 mph to 55 mph it takes forever. I hear the engine rev, and the tachometer jumps, but the truck hardly seems to move for a couple of seconds and then it slowly accelerates. This is my first truck and I don't know if all trucks do this or is it just mine.

Another strange thing that may or may not be related: I get between 17 and 22.5 mpg when I hammer the petal, but when I drive gently ("fuel efficiently") I get something between 11 and 15 mpg.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I would recommend having someone drive the truck that can evaluate the transmission to see if it is operating normally.

 

So what you're saying is that it is not normal?

 

No. There might be a little hesitation in a downshift, but your hesitation points to more than a slow downshift.

These are trouble anyway, so best get it looked at before it breaks an input shaft or worse. The engine reving up without the truck speeding up is a kiss away from it slamming into gear or catching at high revs. Disaster soon to follow.

I don't know what to tell you about repairs or rebuild. My Ford rebuild or reman or new (I don't recall, it was replaced under the ESP) started to flare between shifts. My independant guy put some Justice Brothers snake oil in it and that flare is gone. Other fixes for this trans are known, so talk to the trans guy and make sure he's aware of the history of this pos and what all the fixes are.

Links regarding this trans:

shift kit, but you have to fix the other stuff first:

Transgo Re-Programming shift kit

servo bore issues:

http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...%5Bunit%5D=225

It goes on and on....

 

Welcome to FTE.

How is the tranny fluid level & condition???? Check the fluid level with it fully warmed up, say after a 20 mile drive, on level ground, after shifting into all gears, ending in "P" or "N".

On checking the condition of the tranny fluid, put a drop on a piece of white blotter paper, or the like & tell us what color the fluid is & what, if any, pattern/s may appear on the blotter paper, the fluid should be a clear pink color & form a plain pink spot, no rings.
Also rub/feel the fluid between your fingers, should be smooth, no grit & sniff it, shouldn't smell burned, let us know what you find.

Has the tranny ever had a pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout????

Do you have a flashing OD light, or lit CEL, or had a tranny shop scan the tranny computer for trouble codes???? If so, post All code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

Right now, with the mileage it has & the clues you've posted, it sorta sounds like the clutch pack or torque converter has a problem.
May be a line pressure problem from low fluid level, a clogged tranny filter, or clogged up valve body from sludge, gum, or varnish deposits from worn out oxidized fluid, the wrong fluid, or some after market additive thats messing with the fluids coefficient of friction, or, well you get the idea, could be a number of things, so we need some more clues to make a more focused guess.

Or maybe consider taking it to a trusted tranny shop & have the tranny computer scanned for trouble codes, let them drive it, but go with them to demonstrate the problem & have them give you a diagnosis.

Driving it with the engine reving & the tranny slipping, will overheat & toast the clutch packs friction materials, torque converter & fluid fast, so don't delay in having this put right.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Thank you for the tips I will check the tranny fluid today and let you know. As for any lights or scans, there are no lights on nor have I had it scanned. I was trying to determine if this is a real issue or just the nature of a truck. From the sounds of what everyone is saying it is something I should have looked at.

I have only owned this truck since February and I only found out about this problem a couple weeks ago. I went to pass someone and I needed to do it quick so I floored it and moved into the other lane. Much to my suprise I didn't get much of a response and due to oncoming traffic I had to abort my attempt at passing.

I will check the tranny fluid and let you know.

 

Ok, well it sounds like it isn't down shifting, when you pulled out to pass, so you may have more than one problem.

Basic things first, check the fluid level with it fully warmed up & check it's condition as I outlined above.

 

My Tranny Fluid is pink and does not show any paterns when a drop is placed on a piece of paper. The level is just barely in the cross hatched portion of the dipstick. When I wiped the dipstick there seemed to be a little bit of a dark residue on it.

I will give you the full history of my truck as far as I can tell you.

Previous owner:
the previous owner of my truck bought the vehicle new and loaded it with every option available (you would be suprised what options were available in a 1998 vehicle, were talking power windows, power locks, 4x4 Off Road, the whole deal). The previous owner was an elderly gentleman and a hog farmer. I was told that before I bought the vehicle it was extremely dirty, and smelly. But when I recived the truck it was neither of these. The original owner died and his son inherited the truck. The son used the vehicle a little and stored it in his garage alot and put a new battery in it, sometime last year. I bought the truck in February of this year, with only 75,000 miles on it, for a steal and put new tires, a new serpentine belt, new wipers, and had the oil changed. In March I had new brakes put on the front. Also in March, I was involved in a collision; rainy day, someone stopped in front of me, I slammed on the brakes and rear ended the other vehicle (Ford Focus, if anyone cares). Needless to say I had the radiator, Hood, bumper, lights, shroud, and various other less important things replaced. That brings us to today. The behavior of my transmission did not change after the accident.

Sorry for all the details, let me know what you think.

 

Well it doesn't sound like the tranny fluid is in too bad a shape, but with more than 80K on it, the tranny fluid & filter should have been changed a couple of times by now, so it may have some sludge, gum, or varnish mucking things in the valve body & torque converter up.

In any case it's likely gonna cost a few bucks to find out whats going on.

A pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout will likely cost $60-$80 if you do it yourself, following the directions in this forums "Tech Info" thread, or about $150 if a shop or Dealer does it with a machine.

A tranny shop is likely to charge as much for a diagnosis as a pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout you can do your self & who knows, maybe clean fluid & a new tranny filter is all it needs.

Seeing as how the tranny fluid doesn't seem to be in an oxidized state, maybe consider trying a can of SeaFoam Trans Tune in the fluid, driving it until it stops acting out, or doesn't get any better, then do the tranny pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout & see how it goes. You could use an inexpensive fluid, like SuperTech Mercon-V & maybe save a few bucks on the fluid, in case you don't get joy & a tranny shop has to have a go at it.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

I called around and got some quotes and one of the transmission shops I called said that a "flush" was a waste of time and that they just replace the filter and the fluid. Another shop I talked to said they do a complete flush where they pump fluid with additives through the system to dissolve any gunk and it takes about an 1.5 hours, then they fill and change the filter. Which one do I want?

Also, you (pawpaw) seem to have a similiar engine and tranny as mine, how does yours accelerate?

Thanks

 

Just the fluid and filter change.

You really need to find a shop familiar with this trans. This is a troublesome POS and unless the shop has a track record with this trans, they are just selling you snake oil fixes. Note your fluid isn't burnt or contaminated. Yet you have a transmission issue. Is it possible it's the fluid? Not likely. It's cheap and the filter is on the long list of suspects, so you have little to lose doing a fluid and filter change. But I think one of the basic design flaws of this trans is at work, and no amount of fluid changes is going to fix that. jmwag.

Note I have a '98 SOHC/5 speed auto in an Exploder. No such hesitation ever noted, except when it blew up and broke the input shaft.

 

I don't know that I'd do a "flush" service, as that has them use a solvent pumped through the tranny lines to hopefully dissolve & put into suspension, any deposits, then when they begin the pumpout with new fluid, it's supposed to flush the solvent, old fluid & deposits out, as new fluid is pumped in. A number of folks opting for the solvent flush type service, have reported tranny problems a few weeks, or months down the road.

SO, if you opt for a machine type flush & filter change, maybe consider opting out on the solvent injection part of the service.

If you use SeaFoam Trans Tune, you'll get the same type of cleaning, but it'll do it more slowly, so it's less likely to cause mischief, IF deposits are your problem.

If you are having a solenoid, or actuator, or wiring problem, then a tranny service isn't going to solve those problems.

Even though I've done the 30K mile severe service tranny fluid pump outs with filter cahnges, my tranny fluid never got degraded that you could tell, but I've had to use the Trans Tune in both my 99 Ranger 5R55E & 94 Taurus AXODE trannies for a few days, to a few weeks to cure hang shifting, or no shifting problems, then when the problem cleared, I'd do the tranny pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout, thats outlined at the bottom of this forums Tech Info thread.

You can do this your self & save about $100 & if your tranny hasn't had it's filter & fluid changed in 80K+ miles, it's past due imo. My trannies reward me with more positive but smoother shifts after a pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout.

When I go WOT, the tranny down shifts smartly, the engine winds & acceleration is brisk.

From your description of what happens when you go at throttle up, it sounds like the tranny isn't down shifting, or if it does the bands or torque converter are slipping badly & a number of things could cause that. Anything from low line pressure from a weak pump, or clogged filter, or mucked up valve body, or shift solenoids, to a bad part or blown valve body gasket. A good tranny shop should be able to scan the tranny computer for trouble codes, do a line pressure check, drive the vehicle & give you a pretty close diagnosis of whats going on, but it might cost a few bucks for their time.

 

I will definitely do the Sea Foam Trans Tune. How long after introducing the Trans Tune would you recommend that I wait before flushing the tranny fluid?

Also, I am not sure what you (pawpaw) are refering to when you mentionthe Tech Info thread I can use for info on flushing the tranny myself. Could you post a link maybe? Thanks.

85e150six4mtod, you mentioned a basic design flaw, what were you reffering to specifically?

Thanks all for your help.

 

Two specifically come to mind--the servo bores and the soft shifts leading to the flare between gears. (2nd to 3rd irrc)

 

The shift between 2nd and 3rd is the worst on my tranny. Any idea where I can find out more about these particular issues?

Thanks