Review post #9 above about how long to leave it in.

Look atop this forums thread listing page to find the "Tech Info" thread, click on it & scroll all the way to the bottom to find a "how to" post about how I do a home tranny fluid pump out on my 99 Rangers 5R55E tranny. This is the method Ford Dealers used before they got the Routuda flush machine, but I've added a few tweaks & info to make it less messy.

Lots of other good wrench turning info in the Tech Info thread too.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Try post 4 again.

 

Why not try using the manual shift lever to access the lower gears w/o depending on the kick down to downshift? Start off in 1, move the lever to 2, and then D or OD. When you want to accelerate, move it to D or 2 depending on your pattern. This is only to test that you can feel the transmission downshift on command.
If the whole shift pattern is 'muzzy', then I'd be checking the pressure regulator, as it varies the pressure to vary how sharply it applies the bands/clutches. If you have your foot into the throttle, it raises the pressure to avoid slip. If you are puddling along, it will shift a lot sloppier and much less recognizable as a shift as there is no definite 'change' of speed or rpm, it just sort of oozes from gear to gear.
A good transmission shop can check the pressure or the solenoid function with a tester. Ford dealers have equipment for the same thing.
From 1,000 miles away, I would be looking at a control issue more than failing internal parts. All symptoms point to low line pressure. Line pressure is regulated. So, test the line pressure components.
tom

 

Thanks for all the help guys, you rock!!!

I am going to use the trans tune and change the tranny fluid and I will let you know how things work after that.

Thanks again.

 

Here is the Tech Info thread link on how I do my 5R55E tranny filter change & full fluid pumpout. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html

If you don't get joy from the SeaFoam Trans Tune cleaning, new tranny filter & full fluid pumpout, then deposits aren't likely the problem, so have a trusted tranny shop drive it (& go with them) & see what they offer up as a diagnosis. If they have to open the tranny up, at least they'll likely find it squeeky clean inside!!!! lol

Let us know what you find in the tranny pan & filter & how the pumpout goes.

 

On the other hand, if you clean it out, you will leave no clues in the pan for a shop to peruse and their only alternative after any electronic diagnoses will be to take it apart. They will also recycle the fluid you just installed. Maybe the filter and gasket too.
I guess I am saying take them for a test drive before doing the service. In most cases, service will not affect perceptibly the way a transmission shifts. It won't slip more or slip less with a fluid change.
The only time I've ever noticed a change was with an AXOD that had a slow reverse servo apply. I changed the fluid and added Red Lubegard. The servo seemed to like it, and reverse apply after a 35 mile run was smoother.
YMMV
tom

 

Am I going crazy or is this working already. I ran my car for ten minutes this morning to warm everything up, I even did some shifting through the gears. Then I added the Trans Tune and left for work. I could immediately tell a difference in my shifts. Everything is much smoother and my 2nd to 3rd is significantly improved. I have not had a good opportunity to test the downshift, but I think it might be better. Is it even possible that it worked that quickly?

I will let you know if there are any changes.

 

Dirve it for a while until the upshifts straighten out, Before doing any WOT down sifts, as any clutch pack slipping at high engine revs, aren't doing the friction materials, bands & tranny fluid any favors & the kinds of cooked on deposits all that slipping & heat causes, is more difficult for the TransTune to dissolve & put into solution, so that the tranny filter can take it out of circulation so it doesn't cause more mischief.

If you've really noticed results that quick, then you likely had some soft deposits, like sludge, that hadn't yet hardened into gum, or varnish which is more difficult to soften & remove.

So don't get anxious & do any high rpm up or down shifting yet, until your 2-3 hanging, or flare up shifts get normal, or don't improve any more.

Depending on the deposit load & type, it could take days, or a few weeks for things to get back to normal, or as good as they're gonna get, so keep an eye on the tranny fluid color & condition, using the blotter test. If it gets a noticeable ring pattern using the blotter test, maybe consider pumping the tranny pan out & adding some inexpensive Mercon-V, like WalMart Super Tech & drive it some more with the other half can of TransTune added, until it gets back to normal, or improvements cease.

The idea being not to clog up the tranny filter before the shifting gets back to normal, or doesn't improve any more, then it's time to drop the pan, clean it & the magnet, change the tranny filter & continue the pumpout by loosening the tranny return line at the tranny cooler, so you can get all of the old fluid, TransTune & debris flushed out of the valve body, torque converter, lines & cooler.

When you finish the flush with new fluid, seriously consider installing an inline filter like a Magnefine, or the like, into the disconnected tranny return line at the cooler, to catch any remaining debris the flush didn't remove, or debris the new tranny fluids detergents loosen up, so they don't cause mischief.

A bunch more thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on how it goes.

 

Oh, no WOT down shifts? . . . oh well, I won't do it anymore. Anyways, it probably wouldn't make a difference because I have been doing it for a couple of months now.

I took it on the expressway for a short ride, and I floored it on the on-ramp, every shift was smooth as butter (possible still a little rough at 2nd-3rd, can't remember). Anyways, I tried the WOT downshift and that was significantly smoother as well. Otherwise, still a few rough spots, but very, very smooth shifts. I have to tell you, I honestly thought that the way my truck shifted was the nature of an old truck transmission, this is incredible!!! Trans Tune is awesome stuff.

Could the soft deposits have come from sitting in the previous owners garage for 6-9 months?

I am not keen on pumping the tranny myself (the most I have ever worked on a vehicle was replacing the spark plugs, which is a funny story because I dropped one and had to have the vehicle diagnosed for a misfiring cylinder. Thankfully, the diagnsoses and sparkplugs cost less than having someone do it for me.) So I wanted to know, what I should have done. The oil change place will do a full flush, with additives (but i would opt out of the additives) for 119.99. The tranny place I am familiar with will change the fluid, filter, etc for 69.99 (they said a flush was a waste of time). What would you recommend?

I ended up dumping the whole pint of Trans Tune in this morning because my fluid level was at the bottom of the cross-hatching on the stick (after a twenty-five mile drive). Now, after a >15 mile drive the fluid level is higher than the cross hatching. Is this a problem? If so is there an easy way that I can remove a little?

You mentioned in a previous post that I should put some of the tranny fluid on blotting paper. Does it have to be blotting paper or can it just be regular white paper, or should it be a paper towel?

I should have the opportunity to drive it some more tomorrow possibly up to 50 miles or more. The more the better, right???

Sorry about all the quesions, wow.

Thank you so much for your help.

 

On the $70 tranny filter & fluid change, is the fluid part just for replacing the pan fluid after the pan drop & filter change, or is it for a filter change & full fluid pumpout?????
If it's for a full fluid pumpout, thats a danged good price, IF they're quoting you licensed Mercon-V fluid!!!!

If your going to have someone do it for you, I'd opt for the the pan drop, filter change & a full fluid pumpout with a licensed Mercon-V fluid, Motorcraft, or Filtran filter, Without the solvent flush, (you don't need that now). The full fluid pumpout will flush the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines of the old fluid, TransTune & debris it's loosened, so you'll have All new fluid in the system.

If you opt just for a pan drop, filter change & pan refill, it'll only get 40-60% of the old fluid out, so the new fluid will become contaminated with the old fluid & any debris it's carrying. Old oxidized fluid will hasten the demize of the new fluid & it's additives, a vicious circle.

Remove the tranny dipstick & use a hand pump to remove excess fluid from the tranny, to get the level right before your long trip. I rigged a liquid hand soap pump, with a length of small diameter hose attached to it's syphon tube, I cut the hose about a foot longer than the tranny dipstick, so if it came loose it's end would stick out of the dipstick tube & not drop into the tranny & require a pan drop to get it out.

Too much fluid in the tranny can cause it to become aerated & the tranny pump doesn't like trying to pump fluid with air bubbles in it, so the bands could begin to slip & cause more mischief. So adjust the tranny fluid level after the fluid is up to operating temp, about after a 10-15 mile drive.

Blotter paper works best for the test, but the back of a plain white business card will work or a tightly woven high quality white paper towell works, but might not show fine lines as well on the blotter test. If the fluid gets really dark, or gritty, drain the fluid & change the filter without delay.

I'd also opt for an inline filter installation, like a Magnefine or one like it, at the tranny cooler return line connection location. It'll catch debris loosened by the Trans Tune, or new fluids detergents, so they don't get back in the tranny to cause mischief.

Keep us posted on how it goes.

 

Called the tranny shop to clarify. Turns out that they do not do a pump out, just a pan drop and filter change, which explains the price. Needless to say, my conversation with the tranny guy scared me away. I am not trying to judge, but this guy came across as very arrogant. My family likes a different shop in town and I now see why. First he told me that the old fluid wouldn't make a difference, then when I told him I had been experiencing some problems, he said that they could do something while they had the pan off that should help. I, striving to be the informed consumer, asked what it was that they did. His answer, "can't tell ya, trade secret". Then when he heard I put the Trans Tune in the tranny fluid he told me not to do that, "because it turns the fluid into varnish and it ticks his mechanics off. Anyway, I have no intention of ever doing business with them.

On a lighter note, my tranny is coming along real good. Shifts are smoother and smoother all the time. 2nd to 3rd is incredible, it is definitely shifting smoother. One thing I notice is that the smoothness of shifts is a little irregular. Sometimes everything shifts smooth, except for a little roughness in 2nd-3rd. Other times a little rough on 1-2 but 2-3 is smooth. Is this normal?

Also, tranny fluid levels seem to be normal. I have been checking them daily, but I have only had the chance to drive 9 miles before checking. When I got home today I checked and it looked to be just at the high end of the cross-hatching, but it was hard to tell where the fluid on the dipstick ended. Fluid is also looking dirty, less of a light pink color.

When I flush, it will be with the oil change place, and I will opt out of the cleaner.

 

OK, good to hear your having continuing positive results with the Trans Tune. Keep an eye on the condition of the tranny fluid. When shifts don't improve anymore, do the pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout without the solvent flush part of the service, as you said you would.

From the price the tranny shop quoted, I kinda thought it might be just a pan drop, filter change & pan refill. Thats better than nothing, but not by much, as the old oxidized fluid begins to use up the new fluids ad pack & hasten it's oxidization/breakdown, so it's not the best choice imo.

I don't know what to tell you about the difference in shift quality, maybe it's due to the Trans Tune cleaning things up, maybe it due to you driving it differently, you know more throttle, or letting up on the throttle before it shifts, or driving it on a different road with inclines, ect, ect.

Once you get the new fluid & filter in there & drive it a few weeks, it should settle down & then you can get a trusted tranny shop to drive it & see what they think, if it still bothers you.
If your lucky, it was just some sludge, gum, or varnish mucking something up & the deposits were light enough for the Trans Tune to be able to get after it.

Make sure they're using a licensed Mercon-V fluid & a Motorcraft, Filtran, or Purolator tranny filter, not some inexpensive generic fluid, or filter made in China or India, ect.

Keep us posted on how it goes.

 

Well . . . after having a really rough day with my tranny yesterday (and driving 75-100 miles in 95 degree weather) I decided to look a little closer at the fluid level. Apperantly I just don't know what to look for on the stick, but I have it worked out now. I wiped the stick very thoroughly and found that I was definitely high. I ended up pumping out about 8 oz. worth of fluid (great tip with the soap pump pawpaw, absolutely brilliant). Now I am within the cross-hatched area. Unfortunately, I have driven alot with the fluid that high, so I hope I did not wreck anything . What should I look for if I have?

While pumping I noticed that the fluid looked pretty dark. Here are a couple of pictures:







BTW, the picture of the fluid on the plate looks lighter in the pic than it did in real life.

Let me know if I should have this changed sooner than later.

Aside from the rough shifts on Monday I notice that there is pronounced road or engine noise when I am at 55 mph and even louder at 70 mph (I have to really crank the stereo to hear over the noise). Is this normal, or a result of the extra fluid?

I will not be driving it tomorrow, but I will let you know how things shift on Thursday.

Thanks again for the help.

 

With 80K+ miles on the tranny fluid, it's well past due for a change as has been said.

Not sure what your hearing, nor whats causing it, but if it's coming from the tranny, thats not a good sign.
Was the noise your hearing new & if so was it a roar, moan, whine, ect????

The Mercon fluid in my Taurus looked about that color the last time I flushed it after 30K miles, so the pictures you've posted don't look gross, but the fluid is darker than normal, but not bad for 80+ K miles.

On the tranny fluid level, if you checked it immediately after your high speed highway trip in 95 deg heat, the fluid was likely over heated & would expand & seem to be over filled. The fluid needs to be at operating temp around 175-185 deg, when you do the fluid level check.

 

one other problem that these 5r55e trannys have is the separator plate gasket will split and loose pressure !
5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
your tranny cooler lines could be clogged and also the so called cooler , you might try to blow air through the lines and see how they are !
and even put a extra cooler on it !