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I took a standard wrench, 5/8" I believe it was and ground it down to make it fit. You have to shave quite a bit off of it though so careful with how much you torque it, it will break like mine did
Thats odd everyone has issues getting at those nuts, i got at mine with a husky brand long handled 9/16" combo wrench, before I had that I just grabbed every 9/16" I had and between about 3 of them I found one with the right offset to squeak by the thermostat housing.
I used a crowfoot on a swivel with an extension bar. Not fun by any means but otherwise you need to bend and grind a wrench and I don't have the means to do that.
There is also a tool the pros use that clamps around the IP and is used to turn it advanced or retarded. I would like one of those. I have been using a very large adjustable wrench attached to the FSS housing on top. It seems to work pretty well.
This is the wrench I have been using on my IP It just happened to be in my collection it is thin like a tappet wrench I have seen them in Snapon ,Matco, & Mac catalogs. This one is Proto but i have them in several brands from 1/8 to about 5/8ths inch.
i grabbed a cheapy 9/16 and shaved its boxed end down.works like a charm.
the top bolt you can get at easy.the one on the pass side is just hard to get to,
the one on the drivers side is just near impossible though.slimming down the box end of a wrench so that can slide in that skinny slot they left ya to play with works great.
the only part of working on this engine that reminds me of modern,hard to work on engines.issue solved with the right wrench though.can't say that new engines.they're just a pain no matter what ya do lol.
i can see how this would work just the same,by using an open end wrench for that one.i don't have any offset like that.
either way,same results.just as long as you get a good purchase so you don't round the head of the bolt off.kind nice to slim down a boxed end,so you know you got her.but im sure that works great.
I just took an old 9/16 box end I had laying around and used the grinder to taper the end down so it would fit over the end of the bolt. Was pretty easy to do, and its a shorter wrench so it fits in easily. Worst part of it is trying not to burn your hand on the radiator hose (engine should be up to temp when setting the timing).
I just took an old 9/16 box end I had laying around and used the grinder to taper the end down so it would fit over the end of the bolt. Was pretty easy to do, and its a shorter wrench so it fits in easily. Worst part of it is trying not to burn your hand on the radiator hose (engine should be up to temp when setting the timing).
I did the same thing, old 9/16 wrench, but used the open end that was ground down a small amount. A crowsfoot may work, I have not tried that. The wrench was easier.
It is not fun working around the hot hoses and hot engine............
The hardest part about setting the timing is not getting burnt on a 212F engine and radiator.
I loosen the passenger side nut before I start warming the engine up. I leave it loose; tightening only the two I can easily reach. When I am done setting the timing, I let the engine cool down and then tighten the passenger side bolt.
I have thought about getting some 9/16ths wrenches and bending them enough to reach and grinding thin so they are usable. Bending them will void any warranty. If enough people are interested I might make up a few.