Clutch/flywheel help
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Clutch/flywheel help
Hey guys and gals, it has been a little while since I have posted. 1984 Ford F250, 4x4. 460. T19 trans.
I pulled my trans to get to my clutch because it was making a whirring noise while it was in neutral. In addition, it was slipping when I was driving it. Kind of hard to explain but it was a loud noise while in motion.
I also pulled my flywheel to get to my pilot bearing/bushing (need help figuring out how I can pull this.
I plan to spray degreaser on my flywheel and dust cover? ( a trans shaped piece that is really thin metal). I will use some steel wool to get this back into shape. Flywheel appears to be good with no divots or anything, but should I resurface it anyway?
Lastly, in terms of the clutch I found an 11inch Sachs clutch from Oreilly auto including everything for $110. Should I get this or look elsewhere? I've heard bad things about pilot bearings, should I use a bushing instead?
I pulled my trans to get to my clutch because it was making a whirring noise while it was in neutral. In addition, it was slipping when I was driving it. Kind of hard to explain but it was a loud noise while in motion.
I also pulled my flywheel to get to my pilot bearing/bushing (need help figuring out how I can pull this.
I plan to spray degreaser on my flywheel and dust cover? ( a trans shaped piece that is really thin metal). I will use some steel wool to get this back into shape. Flywheel appears to be good with no divots or anything, but should I resurface it anyway?
Lastly, in terms of the clutch I found an 11inch Sachs clutch from Oreilly auto including everything for $110. Should I get this or look elsewhere? I've heard bad things about pilot bearings, should I use a bushing instead?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,100
Likes: 380
From: Southern California
Hey guys and gals, it has been a little while since I have posted. 1984 Ford F250, 4x4. 460. T19 trans.
I pulled my trans to get to my clutch because it was making a whirring noise while it was in neutral. In addition, it was slipping when I was driving it. Kind of hard to explain but it was a loud noise while in motion.
I also pulled my flywheel to get to my pilot bearing/bushing (need help figuring out how I can pull this.
I plan to spray degreaser on my flywheel and dust cover? ( a trans shaped piece that is really thin metal). I will use some steel wool to get this back into shape. Flywheel appears to be good with no divots or anything, but should I resurface it anyway?
Lastly, in terms of the clutch I found an 11inch Sachs clutch from Oreilly auto including everything for $110. Should I get this or look elsewhere? I've heard bad things about pilot bearings, should I use a bushing instead?
I pulled my trans to get to my clutch because it was making a whirring noise while it was in neutral. In addition, it was slipping when I was driving it. Kind of hard to explain but it was a loud noise while in motion.
I also pulled my flywheel to get to my pilot bearing/bushing (need help figuring out how I can pull this.
I plan to spray degreaser on my flywheel and dust cover? ( a trans shaped piece that is really thin metal). I will use some steel wool to get this back into shape. Flywheel appears to be good with no divots or anything, but should I resurface it anyway?
Lastly, in terms of the clutch I found an 11inch Sachs clutch from Oreilly auto including everything for $110. Should I get this or look elsewhere? I've heard bad things about pilot bearings, should I use a bushing instead?
there is really no reason to pull the flywheel unless it needs to be surfaced-
If there are no grooves, burn marks, discoloration, etc on the flywheel, then use 100-150 grit sand paper just to clean the surface, then spray liberally with brake cleaner.
With regards to the major auto chains- I'm just not a big fan of their parts. IMHO, you should have a clutch rebuilder in your area that should be able to provide same day/next day service for that same price.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
I think I just messed up good. When I pulled the flywheel yesterday I didn't know anything about marking the position of it and I didn't mark it. Am I in real trouble here? If so, any way to rectify my mistake?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I have never marked a flywheel, it goes on only one way.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,479
Likes: 0
From: West Valley City
I use a slide hammer puller when I replace the pilot bearing. Not too sure about using a bushing instead of a bearing, never had any problems. Just drill you a small hole, big enough to fit a screw in, place it on the slide hammer, and pop it out. If your going to replace the clutch, I would recommend resurfacing the flywheel IMHO. The new clutch will grab better. I've seen too many people not resurface it and wind up having chatter in the clutch within a year or so.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
I have never marked a flywheel, it goes on only one way.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
I use a slide hammer puller when I replace the pilot bearing. Not too sure about using a bushing instead of a bearing, never had any problems. Just drill you a small hole, big enough to fit a screw in, place it on the slide hammer, and pop it out. If your going to replace the clutch, I would recommend resurfacing the flywheel IMHO. The new clutch will grab better. I've seen too many people not resurface it and wind up having chatter in the clutch within a year or so.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 368
Likes: 3
From: Loganville, Ga
I have never marked a flywheel, it goes on only one way.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
Personally, I always have flywheels ground when I do a clutch, it's just the way I was brought up.
My clutch kit came with a bushing but I went to NAPA and got a real needle bearing (made in Germany and not USA but what can ya do, at least it wasn't China and Germany makes good cars) as I just feel better with it.
And I always have the flywheel turned too. You turn rotors when you replace pads or drums when you do shoes.
I like the rollers too, just feel better and I think they last longer, less friction.
I made the mistake of using a Chinese made clutch, though I didn't know it at the time. It failed after about 2000 miles. Though I like O'Reilly's, ask them to order a Hays Super Truck clutch kit I put one in Sunday and it's the smoothest clutch I have ever had. Difference was night and day.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,827
Likes: 103
From: Martinsburg, WV
On the clutch origins, if it is a Valeo disk you are good to go as being a domestic clutch on the big box brand, it is made in Hampton, VA, I used to live near the plant. A lot of store brands actually have Valeo disks in them. The best I would say to hunt down is a Luk($$). Surfacing the flywheel is cheap insurance.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
It's not forbiddingly expensive to have done, and look at the work involved in getting to that point.People often replace their water pumps on the same premise when replacing timing chains.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I got a Borg Warner Brute Force kit based on the experiences of a retired Ford mechanic who had good experiences with them in his own 1981 F250.
It was made in USA, too.
I wish I had taken pictures of the el-cheapo thing that WAS in there.... Not only were the pressure plate surfaces really small, it was obvious to me the thing had gotten wet and then SAT for a VERY long time as the corrosion & pitting on the flywheel was evident, there were marks on the flywheel where the individual "pads" were situated.
It was made in USA, too.
I wish I had taken pictures of the el-cheapo thing that WAS in there.... Not only were the pressure plate surfaces really small, it was obvious to me the thing had gotten wet and then SAT for a VERY long time as the corrosion & pitting on the flywheel was evident, there were marks on the flywheel where the individual "pads" were situated.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
I didn't and I regret that decision.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Hey guys, I was quoted $50-$60 by the local NAPA for the flywheel. In addition they lost their good machinist to Boeing so I just made a quick decision. I went ahead and hit it in a circular/cw motion with 220 grit sandpaper to get the grime off. It wasn't bad at all no wear or divots.
I also got the pilot bearing out today and I must say that I was impressed. I tried the paper trick with paper towels and I used the wrong size bolt. So in the end I got the right size bolt and used grease. Popped out after some time.
Are there any tips and tricks to reinstalling all this business? I heard something about maybe using some silicone on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil leaks? Buddy didn't know what I had and suggested I ask the pros.
Lastly, with no fly wheel or pilot how much work is it to get to the rear main? I figure I should replace it while I am in there.
I also got the pilot bearing out today and I must say that I was impressed. I tried the paper trick with paper towels and I used the wrong size bolt. So in the end I got the right size bolt and used grease. Popped out after some time.
Are there any tips and tricks to reinstalling all this business? I heard something about maybe using some silicone on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil leaks? Buddy didn't know what I had and suggested I ask the pros.
Lastly, with no fly wheel or pilot how much work is it to get to the rear main? I figure I should replace it while I am in there.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,100
Likes: 380
From: Southern California
Hey guys, I was quoted $50-$60 by the local NAPA for the flywheel. In addition they lost their good machinist to Boeing so I just made a quick decision. I went ahead and hit it in a circular/cw motion with 220 grit sandpaper to get the grime off. It wasn't bad at all no wear or divots.
I also got the pilot bearing out today and I must say that I was impressed. I tried the paper trick with paper towels and I used the wrong size bolt. So in the end I got the right size bolt and used grease. Popped out after some time.
Are there any tips and tricks to reinstalling all this business? I heard something about maybe using some silicone on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil leaks? Buddy didn't know what I had and suggested I ask the pros.
Lastly, with no fly wheel or pilot how much work is it to get to the rear main? I figure I should replace it while I am in there.
I also got the pilot bearing out today and I must say that I was impressed. I tried the paper trick with paper towels and I used the wrong size bolt. So in the end I got the right size bolt and used grease. Popped out after some time.
Are there any tips and tricks to reinstalling all this business? I heard something about maybe using some silicone on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil leaks? Buddy didn't know what I had and suggested I ask the pros.
Lastly, with no fly wheel or pilot how much work is it to get to the rear main? I figure I should replace it while I am in there.