Clutch/flywheel help
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
IIRC the throwout bearing is a sealed unit and doesn't require any lubrication.
For the pilot bearing, my brother says he has never greased 'em but I nevertheless put a LIGHT smearing of grease on the roller bearings, just a THIN film.
Likewise, a thin film on the release fingers (where the throwout pushes) as well as on the fork's pivot ball is a good idea.
I used lithium-based grease for all of that.
You don't want chunks of grease flyin' around inside your clutch, just thing films are all that's necessary.
As far as how to determine which face faces what, IIRC mine was labeled somehow but it's been a few years. Could well be it doesn't matter.
What do your instructions say?
For the pilot bearing, my brother says he has never greased 'em but I nevertheless put a LIGHT smearing of grease on the roller bearings, just a THIN film.
Likewise, a thin film on the release fingers (where the throwout pushes) as well as on the fork's pivot ball is a good idea.
I used lithium-based grease for all of that.
You don't want chunks of grease flyin' around inside your clutch, just thing films are all that's necessary.
As far as how to determine which face faces what, IIRC mine was labeled somehow but it's been a few years. Could well be it doesn't matter.
What do your instructions say?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
It didn't have instructions. The bearings came pre-greased with a tad on the rollers which I filmed out. Clutch was labeled and that and pressured plate are now on. Buddy and I tried to beast the trans on, but we worked 8 hours on the farm and were way too tired. I figure we shall do that tomorrow, and the brake booster and the front and rear brakes.
I also am pulling u joints while I have them out. Got one drive line done.
For the rear driveline at the carrier bearing how do I pull that apart to get the two piece drive line separated to change those ujoints?
Goal is on the road and daily driver status by the 14th so close.
Lastly, I am interested in clutch theory. I know the throwout hits the fingers on the pressure plate, does that press down on the clutch which runs into the flywheel and that allows shifting?
I also am pulling u joints while I have them out. Got one drive line done.
For the rear driveline at the carrier bearing how do I pull that apart to get the two piece drive line separated to change those ujoints?
Goal is on the road and daily driver status by the 14th so close.
Lastly, I am interested in clutch theory. I know the throwout hits the fingers on the pressure plate, does that press down on the clutch which runs into the flywheel and that allows shifting?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,094
Likes: 379
From: Southern California
IIRC the throwout bearing is a sealed unit and doesn't require any lubrication.
For the pilot bearing, my brother says he has never greased 'em but I nevertheless put a LIGHT smearing of grease on the roller bearings, just a THIN film.
Likewise, a thin film on the release fingers (where the throwout pushes) as well as on the fork's pivot ball is a good idea.
I used lithium-based grease for all of that.
You don't want chunks of grease flyin' around inside your clutch, just thing films are all that's necessary.
As far as how to determine which face faces what, IIRC mine was labeled somehow but it's been a few years. Could well be it doesn't matter.
What do your instructions say?
For the pilot bearing, my brother says he has never greased 'em but I nevertheless put a LIGHT smearing of grease on the roller bearings, just a THIN film.
Likewise, a thin film on the release fingers (where the throwout pushes) as well as on the fork's pivot ball is a good idea.
I used lithium-based grease for all of that.
You don't want chunks of grease flyin' around inside your clutch, just thing films are all that's necessary.
As far as how to determine which face faces what, IIRC mine was labeled somehow but it's been a few years. Could well be it doesn't matter.
What do your instructions say?
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Hey guys and gals. I have the clutch and tranny in. I installed a new brake booster and master cylinder today. I went to reinstall my slave cylinder. I just popped the clip and pulled it out before I dropped the tranny.
I couldn't squeeze the piston enough to get it in so I used a pair of pliers to get it squeezed enough. I finally got it in and I noticed that I had no return pressure at all, and combined with that I was leaking fluid. Turns out I busted the slave with either the pliers, or more likely when my buddy returned the pedal to the out position. So as a result I am buying a new slave in the morning, the current one is cut out where it connects to the clutch fluid hose. Is there any tips for installing a new one? Do I need to take a pin out of the clutch pedal or something, my ford book wasn't all that clear.
I couldn't squeeze the piston enough to get it in so I used a pair of pliers to get it squeezed enough. I finally got it in and I noticed that I had no return pressure at all, and combined with that I was leaking fluid. Turns out I busted the slave with either the pliers, or more likely when my buddy returned the pedal to the out position. So as a result I am buying a new slave in the morning, the current one is cut out where it connects to the clutch fluid hose. Is there any tips for installing a new one? Do I need to take a pin out of the clutch pedal or something, my ford book wasn't all that clear.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The piston seal is probably all torn up from where there was corrosion in the cylinder.
Can you explain what you mean?
WHAT is "cut out"?Yes. Instead of just depressing the pedal and breaking the retaining strap, once you have it clipped in place to the side of the bellhousing use the throwout arm to push the piston in and slip both ends of the plastic band free.
Then you can re-use the retainer next time you want to remove it.
These things are a PITA to bleed. That's why Ford usually sell and entire thing (master-hose-slave) as a filled system.
If you get a plastic slave it won't have a proper bleeder like a metal slave will, just a recessed allen set screw on the top.
You need to remove the roll pin that retains the hose to the slave inlet.
Look closely and you will see a small cross drilling on the side of the slave.
That pin captures the flange of the hose.
Good luck!
WHAT is "cut out"?Yes. Instead of just depressing the pedal and breaking the retaining strap, once you have it clipped in place to the side of the bellhousing use the throwout arm to push the piston in and slip both ends of the plastic band free.
Then you can re-use the retainer next time you want to remove it.
These things are a PITA to bleed. That's why Ford usually sell and entire thing (master-hose-slave) as a filled system.
If you get a plastic slave it won't have a proper bleeder like a metal slave will, just a recessed allen set screw on the top.
Look closely and you will see a small cross drilling on the side of the slave.
That pin captures the flange of the hose.
Good luck!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 368
Likes: 3
From: Loganville, Ga
I just replaced my clutch and went through the same thing with the slave. There is too much pressure in the slave for you to push the rod back by hand.
Does your slave have a bleeder screw on it? If so, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder and the other end in to a cup or container. Loosen the bleeder screw as you push on the slave rod. As soon as it slides onto the shift fork close the bleeder. Careful, if you slip and let the rod move forward it will suck in air. You'll have to bleed the system if that happens. Make sure you check the fluid level in the master when done. This method has worked for me.
If any part of the clutch is leaking replace it now. If it fails on the road you'll be calling a tow truck.
Does your slave have a bleeder screw on it? If so, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder and the other end in to a cup or container. Loosen the bleeder screw as you push on the slave rod. As soon as it slides onto the shift fork close the bleeder. Careful, if you slip and let the rod move forward it will suck in air. You'll have to bleed the system if that happens. Make sure you check the fluid level in the master when done. This method has worked for me.
If any part of the clutch is leaking replace it now. If it fails on the road you'll be calling a tow truck.
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
And never do again.. Red Loctite requires heat to release them, so the flywheel would be permanently installed... can't heat the crank effectively enough to get them to release. Blue requires a wrench, much more reasonable to use in this application.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Hey Glove - for bleeding, here's my process:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - A few hydraulic clutch questions (83 460 T19)
I highly recommend it, I re-installed the assembly to my truck and there was no "break in" process as some suggest. The clutch operated perfectly from the get go.
(This is, of course, after trying a little over 100 other methods.
)
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - A few hydraulic clutch questions (83 460 T19)
I highly recommend it, I re-installed the assembly to my truck and there was no "break in" process as some suggest. The clutch operated perfectly from the get go.
(This is, of course, after trying a little over 100 other methods.
)
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Sr thanks for the thread bud. Working right now so will check later. Just wanted to let you know its appreciated. So stoked to get my baby on the road by the 15th latest for rodeo season. Will make a write up when I'm done
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Hey guys I tried to install my slave today. I got it installed and tried the priming trick, and noted I had a air leak in my mc to sc line. I am really hoping to get it done by the 15th at the latest. Local sources are out of clutch hoses. My question is can I cut the current hose out, run some high pressure fuel line to my slave from my master, and use ratchet gear(fuel line) clamps on each end of the hose?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Mine has a nipple on the slave end for sure with a drift pin in it. Not sure on the master cylinder side. So what would the best course of action be here? The parts houses all show a hard metal line for my clutch line when I look it up. I don't have that as mine is plastic. Could I use brake tubing and bend it a bit to get it lined up? The issue then lies in the end pieces as to how I would get the nipples mounted into that...
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
You might be able to join it with a chunk of aluminum, drilled and tapped, then add flare fittings and all that jazz, but it's pretty straightforward just to replace the line. I threw my OEM one away, it was in perfect shape, but decided to go with new because of all the frustration I had gone through trying to get this thing driving again.
I believe the one I got as a replacement was Dorman; 628204.
I believe the one I got as a replacement was Dorman; 628204.