Surge problem revisited
#1
Surge problem revisited
2000 Excursion w/ 7.3 I have had somewhat of a fuel problem since I bought the truck 4 years ago. It was surging at low speed cruising and progressively got worse over time, eventually shutting the truck down.
I did the in tank mods by removing the whole pick up boot in the tank and extending the tuning with stainless steel. I put a Detroit diesel filter and houseing pre pump so any issues in the tank are going to get caught outside the tank. All is good there. The slight surging at slow speeds is still present. Not a break down just a pain the **** I want to track down.
Last week Galveston I bought a Hypertech programer and reprogramed the truck, WOW!! Way up on power and way up on milage! The guy I bought the programer from suggested I take off a line on the side of the filter housing and clean a screen inside that line then put it all back together. He and others thought this could be the problem. The called it a fuel pressure sensor screen.
So I took it off and found the spring and the oring and this brass piece in the photos. I could see what appreared to be holes but they were blocked up. Went to the dealer and they didn't know if the holes were supposed to be there or not. I put it under a magnifyer and drove a pin needle through and sure enough there is a hole in the end that was plugged. I cleared the plug out. I wondered what the other holes are drilled in the head of this piece.
Please post up what you know about this piece.
I did the in tank mods by removing the whole pick up boot in the tank and extending the tuning with stainless steel. I put a Detroit diesel filter and houseing pre pump so any issues in the tank are going to get caught outside the tank. All is good there. The slight surging at slow speeds is still present. Not a break down just a pain the **** I want to track down.
Last week Galveston I bought a Hypertech programer and reprogramed the truck, WOW!! Way up on power and way up on milage! The guy I bought the programer from suggested I take off a line on the side of the filter housing and clean a screen inside that line then put it all back together. He and others thought this could be the problem. The called it a fuel pressure sensor screen.
So I took it off and found the spring and the oring and this brass piece in the photos. I could see what appreared to be holes but they were blocked up. Went to the dealer and they didn't know if the holes were supposed to be there or not. I put it under a magnifyer and drove a pin needle through and sure enough there is a hole in the end that was plugged. I cleared the plug out. I wondered what the other holes are drilled in the head of this piece.
Please post up what you know about this piece.
#3
#5
I would also install this Billet FPR Housing from Dieselorings.
Edit: Be careful on reassembly. If the fuel pressure spring gets cocked the fuel pressure can easily exceed 100 PSI. Ask me how I know.
Edit: Be careful on reassembly. If the fuel pressure spring gets cocked the fuel pressure can easily exceed 100 PSI. Ask me how I know.
#7
stand alone 7.3
has any one here put a 7.3 in something eles ? i got an old bronco chassis that i was building for motor cross racing and mud bogs and such. and i abandoned it 10 years ago when i got bit by the water bug, but now thinking about pulling out and finishing it. im thinking a 7.3 w/ a trans 2 wheel drive and than a short shaft to a chain box style transfer to my axels. its a bare frame with a late model stock car style cage center and kinda sprint car type bar hugging the enj.and off road (stadium truck) style back so i can run any size tire from 31-44 . has any one wired a stand alone motor or is there a a/m harness made like a painless type??
sorry hit wrong button this should be a new post please ignore as you were
sorry hit wrong button this should be a new post please ignore as you were
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#8
#9
#10
I do believe your right about it sticking. The brass valve had gouges in the side as if it were rubbing against the metal it seats inside of. I sanded it smooth with steel wool and got it shiney clean. The steel wool took off the edges of the gouge marks as well. I believe I am going to get that after market kit somebody posted before.
I think your right about the spike pressure. Because when driving on a smooth smooth surface it would rarely do the surging. Drive that think on a gravel road and it was just a pain in the ****. I believe the valve was sticking, pressure coming up and the bouncing on the gravel road would knock the valve into opening. The pressure behind it was way high, so when it released it dropped the pressure way down, causing a surge.
I think your right about the spike pressure. Because when driving on a smooth smooth surface it would rarely do the surging. Drive that think on a gravel road and it was just a pain in the ****. I believe the valve was sticking, pressure coming up and the bouncing on the gravel road would knock the valve into opening. The pressure behind it was way high, so when it released it dropped the pressure way down, causing a surge.
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