This thread will deal directly with the installation and methods of how to secure your dentside from being stolen, what to do if it's stolen and how to be prepared if it ever does get stolen. Use this information at your own risk.

Table of contents

1) Why would someone ever steal my ride?
2) What to do if your dentside is stolen
3) Security methods & installation to secure your rig
4) How to make your dentside more identifiable
5) Record keeping

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1) Why would someone ever steal my ride?

Many individuals take part in breaking the law, specifically theift, because they are fall under one or more of the many categories:

The poor - those who do not have many assets or a bank account with many zeros (possibly a single zero). They do not have much to work with, so they'll take anything they can get for "free".

Joy rider - they get a thrill out of making others miserable, potentially harming those around them and care for nothing more than an adrenaline high from either stealing someones ride and driving the heck out of it, or stealing someones ride only to later on purposely burn it or crash it.

The bored - this category refers to those who enjoy "a challenge" and see stealing as "good sport" or something that they accomplish. This category also refers to those who have nothing better to do than watch the world suffer at their fingertips as if to get some sort of sense of accomplishment out of it. This category closely ties into the "Joy rider" category because those who are bored may also be looking for that adenaline high to keep themselves occupied.

Illegal alien - Someone from outside the country that is not permitted to be living or residing within the state/country borders. They may be looking for some form of hiding, shelter, money (selling your dentside), or they may just want to blend in with the rest of the state/country in order to reside where they are for as long as possible until they can apply for citizenship.

Ex-con - we all know where these "colourful" individuals come from. They are looking for something they can pick up and imediately dump for a load of cash to get them their next fix, on their way, or to their next crime.

Oportunist - this category is much different from the others in the sense that it contains those who will only take risks (stealing) when they see a wide open "window of oportunity" to do so. These type of people will steal your vehicle ONLY at the time that is most inconvenient for you: vacation, long travel, while at work and even while you're just out for the day. Oportunists will only steal when they understand that the risks of getting caught are greatly reduced because they understand that you're at your most vulnerable state.

Parts/Salvage - this type of person wants what you have, but it may not be the entire pack (your truck) that they want. You may have a few specific key things that are not common to all trucks that catch their eye (in-cab storage, in-cab gas tank, CB radio, tilt column, XLT/Lariat trim package, some expensive tread with some chrome rims to boot). This type of person may steal your vehicle, part out what they need from it (e.g. all four tires) and leave it sitting on four cinder blocks somewhere abandoned.

The best way to understand or quote my definitions would be to "quote what I mean, not what I say". These definitions may not be 100% correct in everyone's mind, but they are in a sense, my definition of the type of person I am trying to categorize and identify.

Not all individuals will fall under these categories when a theft occurs. These are simply a few examples of what kind of person they are and why they might steal your ride.

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2) What to do if your denstide is stolen

First, make sure that you have simply not misplaced your vehicle. Yes, I understand that it may sound silly to you, but doing a quick recall of what occured since the last time your saw your truck isn't ever a bad idea. What is a bad idea would be to contact everyone in your city/town/village and say your "vehicle was stolen", only to sheepishly call everyone back saying "Sorry, I but it wasn't stolen, only misplaced". Now which is more silly? Finding your truck wasn't stolen, or making that embarassing phone call?

Second, don't wait for anything... Contact your local authorities (e.g. Constable, Sheriff, Marshal, Police, Cops, RCMP, etc). Yes, I know that some of you would like to go out, grab the FBI/CIA and go "guns a blazin'", but lets be realistic here. Be sure to include all and any information possible. Here is a short list for you to consider speaking about when making that frustrated phone call:

Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN... any and all that you have for whatever pertains to your truck), colour, make, year, badges, wheel base/bed size, lift (if applicable), rims (make, colour, type, size), tires (type, size) and other identifiable markings (see section 4) How to make your dentside more identifiable)

Remember, pictures are worth 1000 words. Get the authorities some photographs of your vehicle bar none.

Third, contact as many friends and family as you can and notify them that your vehicle was stolen. Nothing is better than having a second, third, fourth or hundredth pair of eyes on your side. Again, remember to give them the same information you gave the poilce:

Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN... any and all that you have for whatever pertains to your truck), colour, make, year, badges, wheel base/bed size, lift (if applicable), rims (make, colour, type, size), tires (type, size) and other identifiable markings (see 4) How to make your dentside more identifiable)

Again, photographs will never hurt your situation here. Make copies and hand some out.

Fourth, use the internet. It's your friend, not your enemy in this situation. Post up on craigs list, kijiji or other local/national advertisement websites that your vehicle was stolen. You've got 200 eyes on your side, now how about 10,000?

Again, all the same info for the local authorities, friends and family is a must. Lots and lots of pictures are a definite must. No pictures means they'll ignore your posts because they can't identify what you're talking about visually.

Remember, over 50% of communication is non-auditory (visual or kinetic). In this case, our entire form of communication relies on visual ques or signs, so post those pictures of your rig up!

Fifth, notify wrecking yards, auto body shops, over-haul/mechanic shops and give them some photos or some form of listing/flyer to tape to their walls or doors. Nothing is better than having those who may be working on your truck to change it up (so the theif can say it's theirs) know that it is "hot" or stolen.

This may get repetative, but it's needed. Give them all the same information that you've given everyone else. Photos and all. "The more your know...".

Sixth, post up flyers on telephone polls, lamp posts, street corners, bill boards or anything else that can have a picture/info taped/stapled to it in your local area. Now, this may sound extreme to you, but when you really think about it, how smart are theives? Not very smart if you ask me. They're already breaking the law... I'm not going to give them the benefit of my doubt, neither should you. For all you know, your neighbour could have stolen your truck and it's sitting in his garage, so it never hurts to get information out to those whom you don't know. It may eventually turn up in your home town.

By now, you know the drill. Pictures and lots of info. You've already writen it out, so one more time for a photocopier won't hurt. What's worse, carpal tunnel syndrome or the feeling that your truck will never come back? You decide.

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3) Security methods & installation to secure your rig

Throughout this section, I will go over various methods and applications of how to secure your truck from potentially being stolen. Use the following information at your own risk. I will accept no responsibility for any actions you take if you use the information provided.

There are various gadgets or pieces of technology out there that may assist in deterring theives, but this section will only go through the following list:

1) Master switches - used for turning off many/all systems. A master switch is a kill switch for your kill switches. You use them to bipass switches just incase you're in an unfamilar area or are on a long distance voyage.

Some typical spots to hide a master switch would be under the carpet in a remote location, behind the seat, in the glove box, under the dash or even under the hood.

Master switches are a good idea so that if a theif were to try to get in your rig and attempt to start it, they would have to find the master switch before they could attempt to fool around with your other switches. You're simply prolonging the theif.

2) Kill switches - used for manually turning objects or sources of power on and off. Kill switches are essential to any rig to ensure that a theif will have a compilcated time trying to get your vehicle to run.

Single switches that are unlabeled for single sources are an excellent way to confuse any and all whom aren't you that enter your vehicle. Although single switches will take time to get used to using (for those who don't know your vehicle), a combination of switches are also a good idea.

For instance, in order to start your vehicle, maybe you have your vehicle wired so that switch #1 must be in the up position and switch #4 must be in the down position, as well as the Master Switch turned to the "on" position (wherever it may be).

Something like lights or a horn should never be used in a comination or sequence, as it will be easy to forget and useless in a sense. However, for something like starting the vehicle, it's never a bad idea to consider sequence/series or combination switches.

3) Disconnections - used for application directly involved with the engine. A good example would be the common expression:

The above quote refers to the ignition coil and the wire leading to it that allows the vehicle to start. If you disconnection the ignition coil, distributor or starter directly, the vehicle will not be able to fire up at all unless they locate the source of the problem (have some knowledge of our old trucks) and correct it.

4) Toggle switches - refers to switches that may engage something or allow X to take place if Y is completed.

For instance, if you have a switch that allows the horn to turn on and stay on when the vehicle has power, then you've got yourself one loud sound when anyone tries to start the vehicle. The sound of the horn will create a lot of attention and make the criminal **** his/her undergarments when the vehicle is started.

A personal favourite of mine for toggle switches is the old famous weight in the seat trick. Because weight sensors are so easy to create using foam, two pieces of tape and two wires with each end open (live), a weight sensor in the seat of the vehicle or directly under the seat is great option to confuse criminals. You could have a toggle switch in series with the weight sensor so that when the toggle switch is in the "on" position, and there is weight in the seat (to connect the wires), the weight sensor cuts the power to the ignition. Of course this is not fool-proof, but definitely interesting.

Another good type of toggle switch can be used is the cigarette lighter. Push the lighter in, and it allows you to turn the vehicle over and start it. If the cigarette lighter is pulled slightly out, the vehicle will never be able to start! Cigarette lighters are a fantastic way to keep your vehicle looking factory while still having some pizaz when it comes to how different your dentside is.

5) Locks - specialty type locks that go above and beyond what the factory locks on the rig would do.

The most common type of lock on any rig is a solenoid lock that is powered by a keyless remote, and only that remote. This type of lock is generally associated with "shaved" doors, hands, locks and so on and so forth, but you don't necessarily need to have a "shaved" vehicle to use this aftermarket lock. Simply disconnecting everything inside the door, and leaving it with the factory look is certainly an option in using the remote powered lock. When you see a shaved vehicle, you know it has solenoid locks. When you see the stock look, you "think" it requires a key. See where I'm going with this?

Hood locks are also another common type of lock to use which is a quality lock that requires a key to see the contents under the hood. Although hood locks are very commonly seen on asianmobiles (or ricers as some call them), it doesn't mean that us Ford lovers can't use them as well. Chances are that if you have $10,000 under your hood, you want it protected from everything, so go the extra mile and use a set of hood locks.

6) Alarms/Detectors - commonly associated with sensors, keyless entry or theft prevention systems that are in most of the newer vehicles that are being produced.

Some alarms will go off and create loud noises that come from a source that is not connected to anything that would come factory on the vehicle, while others are connected directly to the horn (similar to the toggle switch idea discussed earlier). Loud buzzing, chirping, and ringing sounds are common to all of these alarm systems, but they can be changed to be a little bit more creative and have a "different" recording, if desired.

7) Other Deterrents - everything else that isn't involved necessarily with safety, but definitely helps with making the criminal pause before they try to steal your rig.

This ones for all you rednecks out there! Gun racks. Nothing says ****-off better than a good ol' gun rack. Of course, you don't want to leave a loaded gun in there if it's being stored, but just the visual cue of a gun rack (even if you don't own a gun) could be enough to reveal the consequences of stealing your rig (if they have the ***** to).

Blinking security lights. I've seen some vehicles with a blue or red security light that always stays on, no matter what settings the vehicle has. This would mean that the security system is always "on", but in reality, their security system is that small blinking light... that's it... yes... just the light. There are no other bells or whistles to go off if the vehicle is broken into, but the light will always be there and blinking away! This is a great option for those of you who want to have some notion of security to others around your vehicle, but don't want to spend the money to actually get any of the horns, bells or whistles (if you find them pointless).

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4) How to make your dentside more identifiable

This section is meant to make your dentside fully identifiable by you and you alone because you've done something to alter the "factory" or "original" state of your truck. Now, some of you are trying to create that "full factory restoration", and that's a fantastic idea... I couldn't be happier for you and your factory restoration, but there are some lines that need to be crossed if you want to keep your truck under your possession (IMPO).

Now, some of you may think "oh, well my truck is mine because I have done a bunch of mods to it" or "it's mine because it's the only one in the whole city that had a full factory restoration done to it". I'd like to tell you that nothing is yours unless it has something changed on it that only YOU know about.

What I'm talking about are some identifiable markings that would not be commonly seen by the public, while driving or while givng the vehicle a quick look over. What I'm not talking about are identifiable markings such as things that can be seen by merely lifting up the hood, looking under the frame or peeking through the windows of the truck (aftermarket parts, extra parts such as switches, gauges, wires, speakers, etc..). I'll start with an example and work my way up from there to help explain.

Bicycle Example:

When I was younger and bought my first bicycle, I wanted some way of being able to identify it as if no one else would ever be able to have it. I checked with my father and he said "why not stamp my drivers license number in it? There are no two numbers alike". I was not of-age to have my own drivers license yet, so sure enough, I agreed.

We got out a metallic stamp and set up his drivers license # in it, and stamped it in my bike on the underbelly of the bottom member of the frame. It stuck out like a sore thumb when we did it, but how often is a bicycle up-side down? Also, I'd like to add... how many drivers license numbers are the exact same? One, and only one. My father and I took pictures of the work we did, and I proudly rode my bike around knowing that if it were ever stolen, I'd know how to identify it.

Some of you may disagree with what I did when I was younger and say "well, that can just be ground off with an angle grinder", and I would agree with you on that part. The point that you're missing is the photograph that I took. Even if someone ended up grinding off the numbers on my bike, there would still be a large portion of the bike that had markings on it in the exact location where it was stamped. How many bikes have that? Probably none.

Now some of you may say "well, what if they paint over it?". Well, lets go back to section 2) of this thread. "Now, this may sound extreme to you, but when you really think about it, how smart are theives? Not very smart if you ask me. They're already breaking the law... I'm not going to give them the benefit of my doubt, neither should you". We know that they aren't that smart, and unless they're despirate enough to go out and buy the bright green metallic paint that my bike had, sand down the frame and re-paint it... they're not going to go much further than grinding off the numbers. Even at that, the ground down location, like I said earlier, is enough to clearly identify my bicycle because of the photo that was taken. Therefore, this idea will readily work, but it's not your only option.

Motorcycle Example:

I recently purchased a 2005 Suzuki 600cc motorcycle. I know you're thinking "Again, another 'bike' example?", but this is a bit more applicable because my motorcycle is worth much more, and just as easy to steal as my dentside (easy to steal if you want it that badly).

After purchasing my motorcycle, I tried to find a few key locations that would be hard to identify by ANY individual trying to look at, steal or even scan my motorcycle for markings (made by me). After a while, I thought of a few locations to incorporate markings that only I knew were there and any person would have to disassemble my bike in order to see them clearly. Think of it this way.. what kind of theif has that kind of time when they're running from the authorities? I finally decided on:

1) Kickstand - why the kickstand you say? You look at it every time to move the bike from a stationary position (if it was leaning), but that's just it. It's the last place you'd expect. I have made a small marking on my motorcycle with my Arc Welder on the back-side, the side that's always facing the bike, and the side that you can never see unless it's off. After making that small marking, I repainted my kickstand to make it appear factory and in good condition. Who would ever expect that location? No one. Even if they did find it, they'd have to grind it off (again, making my marking more noticable) and re-paint the stand, or buy a whole new one ($50 value) and attach it (assuming they had tools to do so). I then took lots of pictures of my work to show what had been done, and so I knew exactly what to look for if it ever came time.

2) Frame - well, this one's simple. The frame can't be changed unless you want to strip the bike all the way down to its skivvies and change the parts over to another 2005 frame. Unlikely I'd like to think... So, what did I do to the frame? The same thing. I simply welded on a small patch onto the frame on the front of the bike under the fairing. But, this time I took my grinder and ground in an "A" into the welded spot to identify it as "Aaron's" for my name. After, I painted it and took lots more pictures to be able to see my own work in the future if I ever needed it. I put the fairing back on, and you can't even see it at all. Perfect... done.

How to incorporate markings on your truck:

So how can we incorporate this into our trucks? Simple. Find a location that will never change over its lifetime (unless the theif parts out your truck and goes through the work of stripping it down). Find a location that isn't easy to see. Find a location only you know where it is. Mark the vehicle in such a way that you can easily identify it from 100 feet away (if its location was shown because something was disassembled), or with all the photos you've taken.

For this example, I'm not going to give away my locations for my dentside because then none of you will get creative and make your own. I will however say this: "one's on my frame" "one's inside the cab". I'm sure you can all understand why. The cab is heavy as hell, and takes a while to strip down. The frame however, will always be that way because you'd need to take a lot of stuff off to see the marking on my frame.

As for those of you who want that "full factory restoration" look. This is a simple process, and it never hurts. Sure, you want your metal perfect, no dents, no scratches, no nothing... just "factory". To those of you that are na-sayers, all I have to say is 'good luck identifying your truck when the authorities come'. I hope for you that they never have to, but as a warning... be prepared with something... anything to make your truck identifiable. Something on the inside of the firewall even. A firewall marking is enough to make it truly "yours", and it doesn't damage that "original factory look".

Some of you may see this being a bit "extreme", but think of it from larger perspective. How many of us have extra gauges? How many of us have our own switches? Aftermarket parts? Almost all of us. All of our trucks start to look the same in the grand scheme of things. What makes a truck truly identifiable, is something that can never be changed unless it's cut out, ground down and painted over, or simply discarded after it's found (hopefully it never will be).

Good luck to you in making your truck truly yours!

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5) Record keeping

Keep all and any records:

First and foremost, keep everything. And by everything, I mean everything. Not just a few bills here and there, or this or that... everything. If you want to keep good records for your vehicle, you should keep absolutely all records and even create records if necessary.

Second, date and time everything! I have a personal experience where I sold someone a vehicle, and the same day I sold it to them, they destroyed it. The purchaser of the vehicle then tried to get lawyers involved (in the same day), saying that I sold them a bad vehicle and that I need to pay for the damages (even though they were created by them, not me). Because I had the date and time, every excuse and accusation was useless to the individual who was trying to prosecute me, and therefore nothing happened (and they ended up having to deal with the wrecked vehicle themselves, without me getting involved). It pays to have both the date and time on everything, trust me.

If you keep all records and even create some (for odd purchases), you have a better chance of remembering or recalling what has happened over the vehicle's life time. When you go to sell your dentside (shed a tear), or if it's stolen, you'll have a full record of exactly what has happened and when.

Third, create records if possible. If you're buying used parts or going to an auto wrecker, or even just buying off another enthusiast, get it in writing. Getting everything for your purchases/sales in writing will help you keep track of those odd purchases/sales that are not from auto stores.

Keeping all of your records is not just for the purpose of "if my vehicle were stolen", but it's also for you yourself. How many times have you forgotten something you've done to your vehicle, had to go out and check if it was done or if you had purchased that item? I personally can't count on both hands and feet how many times I forget. For some of us (I'm guilty for this), we can't remember what we've purchased or how many parts we have, what we have, what we don't have, etc... It's just good practice to keep good records so you have some sort of recolection of what has happened (purchases/sales) and how much money you've spent.

Organize:

If you're going to keep records, you must organize. Whatever kind of records you keep must be filed in such a way that you can fully understand exactly where pictures, documents, receipts or bills are.

You don't want to be stumbling, wasting everyone's time when someone steals your vehicle. You want to be prompt and achieve as much as you can in the absolute shortest amount of time. Every second counts.

I'll give you an example of how I organize my computer and files for my truck because I'm extremely organized (or at least I've been told I am).

I organize my files by categories as follows (they are not in any particular order and each category deals with both sales and purchases):

Differential - everything pertaining to my differentials. Front and back. Hubs, rotors, brakes, and any lines that deal with the entire front/back axle.

Rims/Wheels/Tires - anything and everything to deal with tires, rotations, changes, maintenance (punctured or flat tires), rims (polishing, chroming, powder coating).

Front Clip - lights, chrome, fenders, grille, buckets, grille shell, light buckets, light assembly, light wiring, etc (note, radiator is not a part of this category).

Engine - a very basic/generic term for everything engine. Pretty much every component under the hood going fom and including the radiator to the firewall.

Transmission - exactly what the title says. The transmission. Transmission cooler could be included in this category as well.

Cab - Everything cab. Inside and out. Door to door, fire wall to rear glass.

Bed - Everything bed. Pretty simple and straight forward.

Electrical - The electrical cords/wires run all over the vehicle, so nothing can really be pinned down unless it's specific to that category and doesn't deviate too far from outside it. Pretty much everything electrical, from bumper to bumper.

Frame - Anything that hasn't already been listed goes on the frame, therefore, it's in the frame category! Powder coating, cross members, POR-15, painting, welding, etc..

Not all of you will use this format to categorize you trucks, but it's just an example. Use whatever method suits you.

Invest in a camera:

Take lots and lots of photos. Now, that being said, there is such a thing as a bad photo. Make sure you have the correct settings on your camera, proper lighting and have accurate focus/lense settings. Nothing is worse than a photo that's useless.

Remember, pictures are worth 1,000 words. Use that camera. Don't let it sit there for it to only be used on birthdays, anniversaries and weddings. Use it for documenting your ride as well!

Take photos of all your work, and make sure you add them to the correct file folders or put them on your computer.

Back up your information:

In this section, I'm referring to the computer-base information. Again, it may sound extreme, but realistically it isn't. I have had many computers get fried on me before. Now, to my luck, their hard drives could be saved, but that's just the luck of the draw for me. From having computers die, explode, catch fire, get electrically shocked, I have since invested in a 500 Gigabyte External Hard Drive. They are a bit pricey, but very worth it and I highly recommend them.

All of my information, and I mean ALL, is backed up on that Hard Drive. It's my life in a box. I never ever worry anymore about using my computer during a lightning storm, or it being shocked by static electricity when I repair it because all of my info is backed up and safe on the drive.

Again, trust me on this one, it's extremely worth your time and money to back up your computer onto something seperate that's used only for storage. It's saved me the skin on my back more than once.

 

Kill switch. Find your own method. The best place to break it is the key on hot run wire from your ignition. Your truck will still start for a second then die. In result confuse the crap out of some one trying to steal her. I have one but sorry not divulging that info.

 

1. who would want to steal my ride?
anyone who likes clean trucks and knows whats gonna be under my hood.

THANKFULLY i live in a small town and if someone steals something word travels fast. population is less than 5k here. i know almost everyone or know of almost everyone.

2. what to do if my dent is stolen?
make a few phone calls. marshals office, county sherrif and a frw friends.


3 security methods:
things i have done in the past or possibly currently do;
remove wire from igniton coil to distributor. no sparky no starty.
install a killswitch. make it unusual like having a turn signal on to complete igniton wiring at startup, or the brights switch on thw floor panel.
i have made a quick disconnect for my shifter in the past. this would give a supposed thiedlf about 3 inches of ketal to shift with and no ****

4 make that dent more identifiable
well not too hard for me. when you have a cherry red interrior and a WHOLE cab that is rhinolined.... lil

5.record keeping? eh?

 

To keep my wheels where they should be, I have splined lug nuts (all 20 of them), and don't keep the adapter in the truck.

 

Living in a small town is my "security system" i've never even locked the doors to my truck....and the key stays in the ignition.

 

amen brotha. small town love! plus my pitbull jesus, 2 treeing walkers and 3 red ticks. thats my true alarm systm

 

I take the rotor out but I'm not yet driving my often so its not a PITA yet.

 

1) Why would someone ever steal my ride?
Opportunists, joyriders, parts strippers, and with the crummy economy - ex-cons and illegal aliens who have nothing else better to do.

2) What to do if your dentside is stolen.
Fight crime, shoot back! The gun rack in the back glass should provide a clue to the clueless. I know the law and under what circumstances I can be charged with a felony while protecting my property. Don't mess with me.

3) Security methods & installation to secure your rig.
I don't smoke so the gutted lighter has to be pushed in to complete the ignition circuit. It's stealthy.

Second, my rig only has one gas tank but has the manual dual tank valve. Flip it to the now-deleted, in-cab tank position and it gets no fuel.

We are a very aware neighborhood and gots each other's backs.

4) How to make your dentside more identifiable.
It's painted camouflage... someone is gonna have to hide it in the woods and not on the street.

5) Record keeping. I have all receipts and tons of photographs.

 

I have a switch that the previous owner wired to the coil in my '74 F-250 Super Cab. When the switch is on, the coil is powered and the truck starts. When I turn the switch off, the coil loses power and the engine turns off and will not start again unless the switch is turned on again. In order to start the truck I have to flip the switch and then turn the key, and then I can remove the key and the truck will remain running. In order to shut the truck off, I have to flip the switch off. With the switch off, the truck will crank over but never fire. And, since there are 3 switches, the average idiot wouldn't know which one. You can also flip over the gas tank selector valve (if applicable) on your truck if the other tank is empty, which on both of my trucks, one gas tank is always empty.



I have since fixed the missing windshield wiper ****.

 

I have an immobiliser fitted as per Australian law, it disables both start and ignition circuits until tagged with the proximity key tag.
The ignition circuit in the immobiliser called it a day so now my coil is switched on via one of the many unlabelled missile switches. The start circuit still has to be engaged by the proximity tag, so its gonna confuse the hell outta any would be theif. (especially if they hit the dixie horn switch first lol)

The best deterrent for theft though is a massive winchester rifles decal, an Australian Army sticker and a .30-30

 

best thing ford ever came out with for these trucks is the locking hood lock i have in all my trucks and my 79 granada pull the coil wire,close and lock the hood bingo! they might tow it but they wont drive it! one word of advice i had my 79 s/c stolen about 15 years ago they got in,unplugged the wireing harness from the back of the ignition switch,pluged it in to their own ignition switch with a key ,start&go a lot of you may disagree with me but i also have razer blades taped to the harness of my 78 reg cab for extra insurance if i come out one day and see a whole lot of blood on the carpet i will know whats being going on! so if some one is feeling around under my dash in the middle of the night where their not supposed to be too sad too bad!! i hope you hurt!! as i have hundereds of hours and thousands of $ into my trucks and i will not have any one rip them off

 

Miottimouse, FTE needs a like button!

 

there ya go!

 

I added a python alarm system to mine, and a locking hood cable.

Locking vent windows?
Rear sliding window locks?
Locking gas cap? (they can't get too far if they have to add gas)

 

Id like to see how many people can actually open my hood. The billet grill makes it near impossible for most people to get their hands in there.