Another r134a conversion question
#1
Another r134a conversion question
Will the 94-96 air condition condenser really help my ac performance? I did a full conversion, new compressor, accumulator, red orifice tube, and flushed out my whole system. But my air condition is just okay, nothing like I know it can be. I have a 92 f150 which obviously was a r12 system, so will adding the r134a specefic condenser really help me that much more?
if do go with the r134a condenser ill also go threw with the new barrier hoses as well. Just trying to get some input from those who have more knowledge. Thanks in advance.
if do go with the r134a condenser ill also go threw with the new barrier hoses as well. Just trying to get some input from those who have more knowledge. Thanks in advance.
#2
What are your current vent temperatures and pressures? Please let us know what the ambient temperature and humidity are as well. It makes a huge difference in diagnosing the problem.
How did you convert the system?
If you do go with a later model R134 condenser you will new hoses or hose ends to make it fit.
How did you convert the system?
If you do go with a later model R134 condenser you will new hoses or hose ends to make it fit.
#3
At idle on a 98 degree weather the vent temperature was at about 45 degrees. Not sure how it was once on the go. On the go my ac is cool, but not cold. Not sure what my pressure readings are, but my mechanic says everything is inline and where its supossed to be. So im just curious as to if it will make my ac system run COLD and not just cool.
I didnt do it myself, my very reliable mechanic did it. he flushed the whole system, condenser and evaporator as well as all the lines. Then he used the correct oil for the r134a and vacuumed down the system for 45 minutes. Then he charged it up with his gauges and he said everything was fine. But that most conversions dont cool as well, because theyre designed for r12.
yeah ive done the research about the fitting that goes to the evaporator needs to be changed on the new lines. But everything else is fine.
I didnt do it myself, my very reliable mechanic did it. he flushed the whole system, condenser and evaporator as well as all the lines. Then he used the correct oil for the r134a and vacuumed down the system for 45 minutes. Then he charged it up with his gauges and he said everything was fine. But that most conversions dont cool as well, because theyre designed for r12.
yeah ive done the research about the fitting that goes to the evaporator needs to be changed on the new lines. But everything else is fine.
#5
#6
#7
im not entirely sure as i havent torn my ac appart yet (hey it gets nice and cold fast so i aint messin with it and the heat is almost instant in the winter time) but i would think the fact that you took the insulation off is going to effect temps because that insulator material keeps the cold in and heat out...for a simple explanation
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#8
#9
not sure and I would think any respectable shop should be able to help, if not LMC truck may have it or NPD also might have it, again not 100% sure as i havent torn my AC appart yet...but a general rule of thumb is this "if its insulated its insulated for a damn good reason..." insulation is usually there to do one of two things 1) keep something in, or 2) keep something out.
#10
#11
At idle on a 98 degree weather the vent temperature was at about 45 degrees. Not sure how it was once on the go. On the go my ac is cool, but not cold. Not sure what my pressure readings are, but my mechanic says everything is inline and where its supossed to be. So im just curious as to if it will make my ac system run COLD and not just cool.
I didnt do it myself, my very reliable mechanic did it. he flushed the whole system, condenser and evaporator as well as all the lines. Then he used the correct oil for the r134a and vacuumed down the system for 45 minutes. Then he charged it up with his gauges and he said everything was fine. But that most conversions dont cool as well, because theyre designed for r12.
yeah ive done the research about the fitting that goes to the evaporator needs to be changed on the new lines. But everything else is fine.
I didnt do it myself, my very reliable mechanic did it. he flushed the whole system, condenser and evaporator as well as all the lines. Then he used the correct oil for the r134a and vacuumed down the system for 45 minutes. Then he charged it up with his gauges and he said everything was fine. But that most conversions dont cool as well, because theyre designed for r12.
yeah ive done the research about the fitting that goes to the evaporator needs to be changed on the new lines. But everything else is fine.
Also make sure the gasket between the grille and radiator support is intact. There are two more air deflectors that run vertically behind the grille that act as air deflectors too. Make sure those are in place. It is quite common to find debris in the evaporator box as well. It's not that tough to open up the blower case to inspect/clean.
I am not a fan of R12 to R-134a conversions. As stated by another poster, "We have done hundreds of these conversions" I can also find you hundreds of horror stories to the contrary. When I have found the need to overhaul a R12 system I use an alternative R12 replacement, AutoFrost/Freeze12/etc. or now that the R12 phase out craze is over purchase some of it at a reasonable price. Yes, R12 is still out there. All it takes is a simple online course and test (and $20) then you can get your own EPA609 certificate to purchase R12 in smaller containers.
#12
Well I checked for those deflectors, the ones between grille and radiator support are both there. but the ones that run vertically are not there. I wonder if theyre meant to be there on the f150's?
Next thing I wans figure out is if other peoples evaporator boxes are insulated. Ive tried searching and havent came up with anything.
Next thing I wans figure out is if other peoples evaporator boxes are insulated. Ive tried searching and havent came up with anything.
#13
Yes the deflectors on there on the F150s as well. The insulation is common to all the F-series. The insulation is missing on my '92 F350. I am running R406a (AutoFrost) in it. With an ambient temperature of 95 and humidity in the high 80's my center vent temperature is running 38-40 degrees at idle. The pressures are very similar to R12, same for the cool down time. I like AutoFrost, but now that R12 is easier to find for a reasonable price I would probably use it if I needed to service it again.
#14
As I read this thread, the main question that pops into my head is- how cold are you trying to make the cab of your truck?? If it's 95* outside and you have it down to 50* on the inside, that's a 45* difference. My house feels comfortable at 68* when it's in the 90's outside.
I just repaired/converted the AC system in my old F250, I was because I was able to get the inside down to 48* on a 95* day. Should I not be celebrating so much? Should the truck be colder than that on the inside?
I just repaired/converted the AC system in my old F250, I was because I was able to get the inside down to 48* on a 95* day. Should I not be celebrating so much? Should the truck be colder than that on the inside?
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