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Well, finally am finding some time to tackle the rebuild of my '03. Any input you can provide on advised upgrades/procedures and best prices would be much appreciated! For those that don't know, I laid my truck over back in November; an unpleasant little escapade that resulted in a locked engine due to oil draining into cylinders while on it's side. The end result was a damaged body and a bent rod (or two). Why am I rebuilding again? (3rd time...) It's an excuse to upgrade and make it more of a dedicated toy

So, this coming weekend I'll be pulling off the damaged cab and starting into the engine to determine parts needed. I'm going to replace only the damaged rod(s) and their bearings, because the rest of the lower end has been rock solid and only has 103k on it. Following that, it will get new headgaskets, studs, EGR delete, possibly a fuel upgrade, and other misc parts.

Here is where I've come to a crossroads, oem or the Black Onyx head gaskets? I'm leaning towards OEM, from feedback I've read of the Black Onyx having a higher failure rate and some builders stopping carrying them for that reason. But, most performance dealers still offer them, and sometimes only list them and not oem, so help me decide!

For studs, I'll be going with ARPs. It won't be an extreme build, and I can't justify the cost of H-11 studs.

Heads and block surfaces will be checked and machined if necessary (as little as possible).

EGR cooler will be welded up. I don't need to spend money on a kit when I can weld and it will keep a stock appearance. I'm tempted even to just do the block off plates and dummy plug since the cooler is still good.

The two injectors I replaced last spring will be relocated to the difficult cylinders (5 and 7) since they will likely last longer than the other six. I'd like to replace the rest, but not in the budget.

Leaning towards a full regulated return fuel setup. Now's the time to do it with the engine out and up-pipes out of the way. I think I would go with the ITP / Strictly Diesel kit.

New oil cooler, even though mine is fine. Advised, or stick with the one I know is good? Also might to IPR while I'm in there, as I've had occasional no-starts where it will crank forever and not fire, then fire right up the second attempt. I think that was a sticky IPR. New upgraded metal HPOP screen of course...

One big question I have, is whether I should do any of the updates the later engines have, such as the upgraded front cover and larger water pump. I'm leaning away from that for cost purposes.

Also, another biggie, is if I should do any upgrading of my '03 HPOP system (stand pipes, logs, etc) or just replace all the o-rings and call it good.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as this goes forward, and it will most likely be drawn out as I'll me doing the work on free weekends at my dad's shop across the state. I'll also post this in a few different forums to get the most feedback, so don't be surprised if you see a repeat.

BTW, in addition to the engine work, it's getting every new body part, except the left doors. Can't find a short bed, so most likely will go with a flatbed. Then possibly cutout flares on the front and a set of 38s

Thanks for any input, and wish me luck!

 

Wow.....that's a list. Are you sure that you have bent rods? ARP's and stock headgaskets for sure. EGR delete you have is a good plan. Upgrading the HPO system is difficult on an 03 and might be cost prohibitive beyond doing the HPOP itself. O-rings should be sufficient. If you're going to deck the block it will probably have to be stripped to the bare bones and warped blocks are extremely rare. Then you get into another can of worms with cam installation, bed plate, rings, bearings, etc.

Fuel system is a great upgrade. Period.

Absolutely on the new front cover and water pump. IIRC you can get the whole assembly and you should.

 

The Bullet Proof Diesel FICM is mandatory.

Assuming that Ken can get you on in time.


A few other twists I would consider --- but give me some time to think about it.


I don't like the HFCM much, and am leaning to its replacement with something better --- I also want to see better water blocking / filtration of fuel.


Alternator upgrade -- might as well do it now... figure out your electrical load.

Replace all bad cables / connectors.


Have fun.

 

Definitely have a bent rod or two. I turned the engine off immediately, but later was pissed off and wanted to see if I could drive it home after getting it upright, cranked it over and it locked up on one cylinder, several days later after everything drained out of the cylinders, I can hear something rubbing like a rod just catching the bottom of the cylinder, but I'll know more when I get the bottom end apart.

Thanks for confirmation on the HPOP system. Why definitely a front cover? I know the newer one flows better and cools better, but I've never had any heat issues and the newer cover is spendy. If I don't do the cover now, I won't do the pump, because the pump can be done later if needed without pulling the engine.

I don't need an alternator upgrade at this time, cables/connectors, I'll inspect, but not going throw unnecessary money at it. My FICM is fine, and that is easily accessible. HFCM, I don't mind, but I might skip the RR and just upgrade the banjo bolts since I have good fuel pressure. Then that RR budget could go towards an AirDog2.

 

I know about the rod thing. Drove around with one clicking the crankshaft just enough to be seriously annoying for 3 weeks. That sucks for sure but they're not that expensive.

Front covers can cavitate over time PLUS it's a chance to go from the small to large water pump. The covers have come down quite a bit. They aren't $500+ like they used to be I don't think plus I believe they include a new gerotor pump, which you need to replace regardless of the front cover ($30).

The cover is $302 from Tousley. I bet Ed can do as well and save you some freight since he's close.

 

Thanks, I'll look into the front cover more. I missed out of a used newer style for $90 shipped with water pump last week

 

Pulled off the box and cab, didn't get the engine pulled yet though. I'm leaning towards the black headgaskets since they are quite a bit cheaper and I've really only read of two cases where they failed for no reason, not set on that yet though. Are the intake gaskets reusable, or do I need to purchase new? Any good source for all the needed gaskets for this task or a compiled list I can order from?

Also, I plan to replace all the HP oil rail o-rings too, is there a kit for this for the '03 motors, or do I just need to go to ford and order each one individually?

Still undecided whether to replace the ICP and IPR. The ICP was replaced under warranty before I got it, the IPR I think may be sticky, but there were only a few occurrences that make me think so and it's a spendy part.

Hopefully weekend after this I'll get the engine pulled and torn down.

 

With a bent connecting rod, do I automatically need to replace the piston due to the possibility of the wrist pin being tweaked?

 

I would since its down that far. OEM gaskets dude +1

 

Yep, decided to definitely go with OEM gaskets.

 

I didn't but my rod was only tweaked about 1/8". All I replaced was the rod and that was about 100K miles and 2 sets of headgaskets ago.

 

Good to know, can't wait to get it apart this weekend and see the damage.

 

Some food for thought about buying an unknown/unseen used front cover. If the water pump cavity has scratches or scoring it may be nothing but an expensive piece of scrap cast aluminum. It only takes something like 1/16" to not produce enough flow. Not sure this is something I'd go used on without looking first.

 

Yeah, good point. I'm thinking I won't bother with the front cover at this point. I'd like to, but if I did everything I wanted to do the budget would be out of control...

 

Tore down to just the long block on the frame, removed glow plugs and started turning engine over by hand to feel the rod scraping... nothing. Really strange and has me baffled. When cranking before, it clearly sounded like a rod was scraping internally. Pulled the right head and tomorrow will pull the other and check each piston height at the top to see if there is any evidence of a bent rod. I'm wondering if the oil-locked cylinder just popped the head gasket and what I thought was a rod scraping was actually just air/oil hissing through a gasket leak??? Really strange, hopefully I'll find out more tomorrow.

Also, the first stand pipe bent/twisted removing it, do new ones come with the oem head gaskets? I think I've read that...