Well I've got a story for everyone. If you don't care to hear the story skip to the next post!

I've been building off road rigs (mild) for a few years. I mainly dealt with jeeps and samurais. I was cruising the Craigslist looking for another project. The old lady told me not to get any more stupid vehicles :smilie_slap... but I just couldn't pass up a good deal!

It was a 1996 bronco. Original owner, clean title, 95k original miles. Had the 351, manual transfer case, and in fairly decent shape for the rust belt. Plus it came with many new parts, like all new brake lines and brakes, new rubbers, tune up, ect... Everything worked except the temp. gauge. Sounds decent? Well how about all of this for $1200!!! :rockon

So anyways I bought it. She wasn't happy. I told her I would fix it up a bit (temp gauge) and sell it for some profit for a new pair of shoes... Not so much.

It needed ball joints. Well simple fix. Went to the LPS and got some joints, seals, bearings, ect... Tore in. Stripped out all but 2 lockout bolts. Off to a good start. Then I couldn't pull the hub out (yes I took the snap ring out). Ok no biggie. Well 5 hours (yes FIVE hours) later I got the brake rotor off. Stripped the spindle nut and damaged the ABS sensor.

About this time I remembered why I didn't like working on old rusty P.O.S. vehicles :banghead But I kept wrenching. Now I'm at the point of removing the knuckle....

Any one ever have this happen?


Pulled the ball out of the socket on both the upper and lower! Hey it's off though!:beer

Then I got to this point... Upper balljoint (ball and shaft) didnt' want to come out...


So I went to the junkyard and found me a '77 D44 for $100 with stock radius arms. Decided to do the SAS I've always wanted to on an OBS Ford. I told my self I was going to lift it someday anyways, win win for me! :thumbup

I've got more of a story, but I'm running out of time and I'm tired after a long sweaty cussed filled day in the shop. Oh and this is why I call it rusty pony... it has rust:




All in all, the old lady isn't happy and I'm doing the SAS because I hate working and maintaining the TTB, plus I wanted to lift the setup anyways!

 

For those of you who didn't want to read the above story....
Here is where I am after day one:






So far the credit card is smoking. On order:
JBG
Deaver 5.5" SuperFlex Coils
7* C Bushings
F-250 Shock Towers

James Duff
Upper and Lower HD Coil Buckets/cups

Extreme Customer Fab-
1 Ton Chevy Steering

Ruff Stuff
Shackle Flip

I was looking at RuffStuff's website and noticed the Universal track bar setup. Just wondering if this would work or not? Also what style mounts would you run? Axle Centered with frame outside mounts? Any better options? Here is the link:
Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties

I have no clue what shocks I'm going to run or the lengths. So I'll have to wait to order those. Also I'm hoping the Shackle Flip for the rear with stock springs will be close in height. I plan on adding a winch bumper to help keep the nose down.

I also plan to use stock radius arms for now and not a clue on mounts for those but was told 7* should work... but after reading a few people say to use 4*?

Let me know your thoughts!

Thanks,
Brian

P.S. Did I forget to mention... I HATE RUST!! ARGH

 

UPDATE: Brown Santa's ETA = WED! =D

 

Why didn't you want to run the stock upper coil buckets?


Also, you *can* get away with the stock radius arm brackets with the 76-79 radius arms. You just need to use the newer bushings.


As for your degree bushings for the front axle, can't say for sure untell its done on what you will need. Its all depending on where, and how far down from the bottom of the frame you mount the radius arms.


Trac bar, idk if that one will work, I have always just made my own out of flat plate and welded it to the bottom and side of the frame.

 

Its funny because as I was reading his post these were the EXACT 4 points I pulled from it to comment on.

Great minds think alike

 

Thanks for the input so far! I've been getting a few different opinions to go over!

 

meh, it's not that rusty for the area, but i do feel your pain on taking stuff apart on a truck that's spent it's life around here. a few months back i spent a few hours with pry bars, pb blaster and a sledge hammer removing a rotor on my car that had been off in the last year. rust makes the simplest jobs a headache

 

Use the TTB radius arm bushings is what I ment. I don't have any pics, but its super easy to make. Start with cardboard n make a template.

 

Nick my azz! I did the track bar and steering linkage. Nick did the welding of the "c's" with my messed up measurements.

 

Axle Tear Down:
Well I took some quick pictures of the axle (cause I like threads with pictures) and noticed that one of the spider gears has some carnage. I was toying with the idea of welding it for now. But I think I should be safe to run it like that as it's not always spinning and this wont' be a dedicated trail rig. Thoughts?







Also, Poopy santa showed up today. I Received the Duff buckets, Deaver springs, 7* bushings, shock towers, and 1 ton steering. Still need to figure out radius arms/mounts.

 

I would not weld your front axle unless you want to get really good at replacing u-joints, axle shafts and hubs.

 

Wtf, I swore I posted a reply....

Well here it is again.

DON'T weld the front end, and use the factory 76-79 radius arms, and the stock TTB radius arm frame brackets.

 

This was the thin part of the knuckle i was asking about:




Here are some parts I have to work with:





I'm planning on trying to get the Coil buckets mounted. And start getting the axle in. I then plan to weld/bolt everything and take it all apart clean it again and do the final axle build (save weight by not putting it all together). Any tips that I should be aware of? Seems like more people are moving their top buckets forward about and 1". Also do you guys recommend welding or bolting the Duff buckets in?

 

I'd bolt the buckets in if at all possible. Makes moving then in the future easier.

Also, yes, I would move the axle 1-2 inches forward from stock. It makes clearing larger tires easier.

I moved my TTB 1.5 inches forward for rear fender clearance.

 

Well I've got the axle semi-assembled so I could do a mock up and see what else I will be needing. I tacked the Upper coil mounts in the spots I believe to be correct (forward an inch). I also built the 1 ton chevy steering.

Quick question, I'm having a major brain fart. Are you suppose to run one normal and one reversed thread on the steering so you can adjust it? And is one jam nut suffice?

Also I have no clue what do for radius arm mounts. I was thinking about extended them, but I'm also thinking about just dropping the coin on the Duff arms and call it a day. That way I have some nice arms if I decided to run a 60/10.25 combo. Unless anyone else has some ideas suggestions.

Also what should I be checking for axle placement? Caster, centered left to right, and try to keep the coil straight?

Here are some pictures: