Rusty Pony's SAS
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
Since I'm bored at work...
I mock things up with poster board and duct tape. I transfer that to the metal and then tack things together under the truck on my back. Then I take it to my table and weld it up. I NEVER do an overhead or verticle weld unless I have to. Not because I can't, but because I am more confident in my ability and more willing to gamble my life against my flat or horizontal weld. Aside from the safety factor it simply looks better. I don't want anyone to look under my junk and say "damn, that looks like ***" and my reply be "yeah I let a friend practice on my drop brackets and I was too lazy to unbolt them and weld it up properly.
"
At first I was glad to see you tackle an SAS but as it progressed and I noticed your repeated disregard for the suggestion of bolting it in rather than welding and now your **** poor fab job/off center axle placement I see that you are no different than the majority of hackjobs that have plagued FTE since its beginning.
I mock things up with poster board and duct tape. I transfer that to the metal and then tack things together under the truck on my back. Then I take it to my table and weld it up. I NEVER do an overhead or verticle weld unless I have to. Not because I can't, but because I am more confident in my ability and more willing to gamble my life against my flat or horizontal weld. Aside from the safety factor it simply looks better. I don't want anyone to look under my junk and say "damn, that looks like ***" and my reply be "yeah I let a friend practice on my drop brackets and I was too lazy to unbolt them and weld it up properly.
"
At first I was glad to see you tackle an SAS but as it progressed and I noticed your repeated disregard for the suggestion of bolting it in rather than welding and now your **** poor fab job/off center axle placement I see that you are no different than the majority of hackjobs that have plagued FTE since its beginning.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
Likes: 1
From: Joppa, Maryland
you forget about when you let me learn to weld on your rangar transmission mount?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
I do have a question for you.. How would you extended and bend the stock radius arms?
Or would it be smarter to cut the stock arms off closer toward the Cs and just run a piece of 1.5 .25 DOM and sleeve the crap out of it?
Also are would there be any benefit in keeping bushings? or should i look at putting some kind of rod end on there?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
I can't remember the OD of the stock arms but somthing in the 2.25 -2.5" range with a .375 wall and a 1.25" heim would work great. Sleeve the whole thing, weld the DOM to the C itself but I'd bring more than that little Hobart 140
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
UPDATE: Well just got off the phone with JD... radius arms on order. After much thought and everyone's input, I just didn't feel like messing around with the welding cast and always worrying about them leaving me stranded. $800 burnt up, but the piece of mine should be worth it.
After review I do have the 6" super-flex springs. I have the tall James duff towers as well. But after looking around some more I plan on moving them all the way forward (another 1") to help with the tracbar and I will try to move them up as much as I can.
Only questions now:
1. 4* C bushings or keep the ones I have?
2. Also what is the correct way to measure for shocks?
3. Also caster should be around 4-5*? I'm assuming the Duff arms will correct this for me.
Thanks for the input so far, be it positive, or negative!! And Alpha it's a hobart 220 lol
After review I do have the 6" super-flex springs. I have the tall James duff towers as well. But after looking around some more I plan on moving them all the way forward (another 1") to help with the tracbar and I will try to move them up as much as I can.
Only questions now:
1. 4* C bushings or keep the ones I have?
2. Also what is the correct way to measure for shocks?
3. Also caster should be around 4-5*? I'm assuming the Duff arms will correct this for me.
Thanks for the input so far, be it positive, or negative!! And Alpha it's a hobart 220 lol