Ok I am experiencing the ect-eot issue and have been in contact with mark (bismic) and now need to figure out what is really good to go with. Ideally it would be a complete BPD remote with the egr replacemnt. I am dealing with 4 local shops (3 on BP install list) and have been getting mixed but consistent replies. I also need to convince the war department on the expense involved.

All shops want around $4000 for the BPD kit installed (no headstuds)

It will run around $7000 with head studs and all agree that I have no indications of need of them and thus do not recommend (BPD did when I got a quote from them direct)

Its an 04 with 34000miles, pulls a small TT occasionally and is our main travel vehicle.

I did a vc 9 flush and all that happened was the deltas got wider (clean coolant system). I am in the process of a restore flush but have not seen any benefit from it so that is why I am here asking.

The 3 BP shops have siad that all I should do is a the OEM cooler and the egr upgrade and want around $2000 installed (I rounded up a couple of hundred).

They also went to $1500 for an oem type cooler with egr delete.

So my question is what are the real gains + - of the full changeover since someone posted with the external they were still running upt to 10+ in delta,
(one of the scan guage questions). All 3 shops have said they will do a complete sytem flush while it is apart to get all the crud out. and all 3 said they really have not seen recurring problemswith the OEM repair and flush and egr change. So what have you guys who have done the fix seen with your vehicles. I know BPD says it will probably recur around the next 50000 but that is expected, what has the real world seen.

I only have a 4" gibson turbo back exhaust and a hypermax economy (30 hp, 65 tq tune) and do not plan to add any more.

So just need some good thoughts on these questions. Again I have spoken with Bismic and have his input but want to expand the knowledge base.

TIA Hank

 

You kind of spend your money and take your chances. So all I can do is tell you what I think I would do.

Go with the BPD EGR cooler. You're in AZ, so I think you need to keep emission testing in mind. If not today, it won't be long. That rules out a delete.

Go with the stock oil cooler rebuild.

Go with ELC coolant to maximize the chances that it won't plug again. I'm sure you already know about the coolant filter.

Skip the studs until, or if, you need them. Doing those is a lot deeper and more expensive, and you may never need them. BPD recommends them, because that is a step toward true bullet proofing, but as you know it is expensive.

JMHO, of course.

We've got a couple of real good shops here in So Cal if you want to do a short road trip.

 

When you change to a BPD external oil cooler the delta basically becomes a moot point. It's all about EOT then and what's an acceptable level. The delta is an indicator of a plugged oil cooler and impending EGR cooler failure, nothing more. With the BPD system you'd never have to worry about that again. The 4K installed price isn't bad considering what's involved in the install.

If you're not puking now then you're probably good to go headgasket wise. I would NOT spend the money to replace headgaskets if it's not necessary.

I think Bill has some very sound advice.

 

Thanks for the replies, hope someone who has done either changeout will respond. I do plan on keeping the egr system just in case someone looks when its in for testing (annually). I have been running it unplugged and have had no emmissions issues to date.

I understand the deltas on the oil cooler, just seems that if the OEM sytem is to keep the delta at 10 deg or less that the BP system should maybe be closer than the 10 that the guy indicated. That is what really surprised me since it is a bigger cooler sustem. Today it was 112 deg, I finished the restore flush and took the truck out. the delta was still 15-16 deg but took longer to get there and I had some gunk in the system. Anyhow I am still trying to get the war dept to say ok as she doesnt think it needs fixin because it runs so well!

I have not been able to find any silicate free coolant except for GM. Everything else either says low silicate or does not say anythiing either way. The ford gold is obviously problimatic so which is actually the best to minimize future issues. The shops indicate they flush with simple green when they do this, but that is mainly for oily systems is it not? Does it help with just minimizing the goo also?

I saw something about a new OEM type cooler but it has larger surfaces does anyone know who makes it?

Once I get enough info and some inputs I will try the wife again, but am leaning towards the OEM type just need to know if there is a better one than the actual OEM.

Thanks again.

 

Hank - what do you want specifically?

Your post seems to be pretty much asking me not to respond, but I must say this - I gave you a fair amount of my time, and my advice was the same as what you are now getting from Bill and Tim. Yet, you still seem undecided about things - not sure why.

As I stated in emails, your oil cooler looks like it is partially plugged, but since you have the round cooler, it doesn't seem to be an emergency yet. Nonetheless, it looks like it needs to be replaced when you get time and money. The Bulletproof EGR coolers are VERY GOOD. Only you can decide if it is worth it to swap your round one out for the BPD one. I even gave you DETAILED instructions on how to do the work yourself.

The BPD oil cooler is expensive, but it works. The OEM oil cooler works - no matter what anyone else says. The new OEM one may be an upgrade, but it is not much of one and doesn't need to be. Ford Gold coolant can work (flush system every 45kmiles) and ELC coolant (must be EC1 rated) works. The ELC coolant doesn't seem to suffer from the plugging, so everything is pointing at it being better.

As far as head studs goes, anyone with a tuner is better off w/ studs IMHO - if you can afford it. If not, run it and then fix it if it ever breaks.

You just need to choose your path, there are many opinions and no guarantees .............

 

Have you backflushed the cooler yet?, it may help.when working right the oem cooler,from what I've seen,is surprisingly effecient at keeping temps in check.you can get one for 213 at tousley ford,or various other parts houses.4k is a big chunk of change,id stick it under a matress so when you need it,and you will,it'll be there.

 

Mark, yes I have appreciated your input as I indicated, just was trying to see if folks who have gone back to OEM type have had any recurring problems. I know you plan to go the BPD external but also as I asked you how does it really work vs an OEM type. The only thing it does is remove the coolant from the equation. Someone said they were running one but still had high temps, so if that is the case is there other than the coolant /plugging issue any real gain vs the OEM.

As I told you I am planning to get it fixed, but just need some input on which is better. If there are no recurring issues with OEM then that is a way to go and actually what the shops recommend and they are knowledgeable on the BP system. The BP site claims that ther will be issues with an OEM type within the next 50000 miles, just wanting to see if that is ad hype or possibly a truism.

Hope I didnt offend ya with the basic question but I need to do what is best without having to potentially go back to redo what I have done if I go OEM style with an upgraded EGR. Again thank you for your time and advice. No I was not asking for you to not respond, just wanted folks who know you that I have been in contact with you.

 

I'm running a BPD external oil cooler now but I haven't towed anything since it was installed. My truck really isn't for any kind of pulling though. It's more of a go fast truck that sees extreme duty. I see higher temps in town puttering around at 35-40 than at 75-80. The highest I've seen is only 209 EOT/ 202 ECT. Reoccuring issues with the factory coolers seem to depend on how the flush is done from everything that I've read. If you're at 16* spread pulling your trailer after a flush but you have a round cooler then I honestly don't think you have much to worry about if your overall oil temperatures TOWING are within an acceptable level. There are several threads with varying experiences on this subject and it's hard to say one way or the other.

 

Hank,

I bought the BPD complete kit (oil & egr coolers) and paid a local
BPD installer to install it. Total cost was < $3k - I got a discount
because it was his first oil cooler and he wanted to see how it worked.

"a few" folks report a repeat failure of the stock oil cooler.

If you plan to keep the 6.0 "forever" I'd go with the BPD and
never worry about the coolers again.
If you go with a stock-type for $2k, if fails again you will
have the same choices you have now - except you already spent $2k.

just my 0.02