I'm starting to consider some reliability mods for my truck since the warranty is done in September and after the Scangauge that I just added (simply awesome) a coolant filter is next on the list. I'm looking for any thoughts on negative aspects (if there are any) on adding one of these. I considered it right from the beginning but chickened out due to warranty concerns. I can't really see any negative beyond adding a few more spots for potential leaks to occur but I want to hear what some of the experts on here think.
Share your thoughts........

 

No negative thoughts at all and there's no reason it should even have any affect on your warranty. Ford should be GLAD you added it early.

 

Aside from the issues you mentioned (warranty/potential leak areas) I couldn't think of one reason not to run one. I just installed the Sinister kit yesterday, There are several options for where to get the kit but I liked the way this one looked. There have been a couple cases of one of the T fittings coming apart so I looked mine over good before the inst.



It was quick and easy.

I did use different clamps than what they sent with the kit. These are for fuel lines.



Also, I drained a couple of gallons of coolant from the radiator for the install. when I poured the coolant back in the truck there was some sand in the bucket. I'm kinda glad to know I'll be getting some of this stuff out of there.



I bought some CAT ELC a couple weeks ago but haven't had a whole day to do the flush procedure. Now I'm feeling a little more rushed. Still need the chemicals and distilled water (and the time )

 

Absolutely no negatives. My dealer likes it and the Magnefine filter on the P.S. return line. Their diesel mechanic also loved the ScanGauge. He said he lost an hours worth of pay playing with it.

 

Warranty will no longer be a concern come September so I'm looking for any beneficial additions or changes to help the truck keep up its fantastic history without creating issues because of add-ons. I have no real desire for big tunes and heavy mods, just reliability at the factory power level.

I'm uneasy about the whole flush procedure given how good things seem to be with my truck and the talk of flushing promoting oil cooler clogging for some. What about a simple drain and replace along with upgrading to the ELC coolant during the coolant filter install? Once again, I don't want to CREATE problems on a great running truck.

 

Flushing appears to be a crap shoot. Damed if you do and damed if you don't. Since I'm still under warranty and Ford recommends it I went ahead and flushed mine. Still under full warranty til Jan. and can extend it one more time. That's why I'm still using the Premium Gold/Zerex GO-5.

 

Rusty that kit looks real nice. Any opinions on how this kit and the Dieselsite kit compare. The Dieselsite kit was the one I was considering just because it seems to be the "gold standard".

LMAO on your mechanic loosing an hours work playing with the Scangauge. It's an addicting little thing for sure!

 

the only thing I didnt like about those kits is the fact that they reduce to the smallest line on the return side

I tool mine out the heater supply and dumped back in at heater return under the coolant bottle and drilled out my filters to 3/8 in the top of the filter

keeped it all 1" inch lines

cant have to much filtered coolant

and Dont do the flush unless you have a big spread already

 

Thnx. The kit fro Dieselsite looks good also, I'm sure either one will work well. There are several coolant filters to choose from and I suspect the filter you choose will make more of a diff than which kit. I did like the swedged fittings and high silicone blue lines on the Sinister kit a little better tho. Plus I got a kewel new sticker for my back window!

 

Man, that's a tough question. I have read posts on both sides of the situation, written by guys who are positive they got it figured out, but I think 69cj's discription as "Crapshoot" sums it up perfectly. The best answer for you depends on "what's up" with your truck.

I have used the old Prestone flush and fill kit on pretty much every vehicle I've owned. I lked the idea of reversing the water flow through the coolant system to flush loose debris from behind nooks and crannies inside the passages. I didn't use the cleaner stuff they sell to go with the kit because I figured it MIGHT eat the hoses and gaskets or somthing. I never had much luck with "mechanic in a can" anyway, so I guess I'm not inclined to use additives/chemicals. coolant and water goes in the coolant system.

On the other hand, Ford recommends the VC-9, that's gotta mean something. I'm not a chemist or metalurgist (sp?) but if they think enough corrosion can happen with servicable coolant in you system that it will take a special cleaner to remove it, maybe that's what we should do? Also if you have high oil temps or a big spread between oil and coolant temp, or you drain some goo out of your system, or you have oil in your coolant maybe some other cleaners will help. they're much cheaper than parts/labor and may be worth a shot before jumping into repair mode.

What I'm thinking for me (8-10 EOT/ECT spread and no issues excecpt a little sand) is switching to the CAT-1 ELC, using the VC-9 according to the directions on the bottle, back flushing ALOT after, and putting in a new t-stat when I'm done.

On your truck I would also recommend at least a water flush unless you stay with the same coolant. I understand the block doesn't drain anywhere near completely so if you change coolant types you'll end up with a mix of the two.

 

Guys I had a Ford tech tell me a couple of years ago NOT to use the VC-9 unless you had known problems, clogged cooler or other issues that warrented a metal cleaner. From what I have read since then it seems that alot of trucks have had premature oil cooler clogging from the VC-9 flush. The Restrore cleaner(alkaline) should be more than enough for the "maintainence flush" to clean up silicate residue and any other "gunk".

I am a firm believer in PM, but also an important thing to remember is don't break it if it isn't broke.
Another point I'd like to make is that I am well aware that there have been many oil coolers plug prematurely for apparently no obvious reason. I've heard casting sand, electrolysis issues from the block heater, and many others. I do know that when coolant is low on suppletmental additives the cast iron surronding the cylinder walls will have millions of tiny explosions (huge problem with the 7.3) in the coolant, with the end result being what appears to be black sand.

I am evidently one of the lucky ones (I don't believe in luck) to have two different 6.0's with in excess of 250,000mi combined with no coolant related issues. The coolant filter was installed on my current '07 at 105,000mi (currently 133,000mi) and I also have coolant filters installed on other heavy duty diesels, so to the OP you cannot go wrong installing a bypass filtration system.

 

Congrats on the mileage and lack of worries! You must be doing (or not doing) somthing right. I do think it's important to have a filter in there so the oil cooler isn't the smallest passages in the cooling system.

 

If it ain't broke goes a long way in my book, and your thoughts on the subject got me to thinking about a few things that may have hypothetically been in my trucks favor over the last five years. As mentioned in my other recent topic I only have 32K on this truck and it's been in the shop twice for two very minor issues. PS flush and fill and I think P0460 code (sending unit/gauge cluster error.) Code was cleared and that was that. The truck is still running the original batteries, the original flash (Sept '05 build if it matters), will boost 27 lbs all day, temp delta is about 6 degrees average, FMP is 48, only time you hear the fan is pulling 11k up a grade with the pedal matted. If I want to sissy pedal it I can pull 18-20.5 MPG highway unloaded and 10.5-11.5 pulling 11K fifth wheel. Truck runs IMO as good as any stocker can.

In my mind here's what might hypothetically be "producing" my luck.....maybe, lol:

Original tune without the buzz, heating etc. could be helping my FICM live longer.

Trucks only been plugged in overnight about 8-10 times and only this past winter. Might have helped preserve the coolant if electrolysis could be an issue?

Exercise! I don't abuse this truck, but it gets plenty of regular WOT activity, PLENTY. I talked to a Ford rep ages ago that had an early 6.0 with 70K on it at the time and like mine it was basically flawless. His advice. Easy on it till it's warmed up, then drive it like your pissed off at it. Turbo stays cleaner, EGR stays cleaner etc. I took his word for it and that's pretty much how I roll, lol. 6.0 grin all day long!

Rotella at 5K with Motorcraft filter, fuel filters at 15K with Motorcraft filters, reliable fuel and Power Service in every tank.

A recipe for success? No clue, but I hate to change much at this point.

THAT'S why I'm questioning all the aspects of any mod I might be considering.

 

I didn't mention it in my above post but I did flush the system at 90,000mi. due to a stuck open thermostat on a -15f ride home with my wife. I used Restore and distilled water, I figured since I had to drain the system it would be a good time for a flush.
Like many others I didn't jump on the ELC bandwagon, not that I think there is anything wrong with the product. I used John Deere CoolgardII, basically out of convienence as I use it exclusively in every other piece of equipment here. Its a low silicate formula specifically designed for egr equipped diesel cooling systems. I sent a sample in over the winter and all came back normal. I also use a scangaugeII to monitor temps, 5-9 differential between EOT/ECT.

As far as fuel goes I use a product sold by Deere called Fuel Protect, its blended for them by Standadyne. Every gallon is treated as I have a bulk tank here.

For the lube side I'm a 10w-30 convert, excellent UOA's at 7,500mi. intervals and oil changes for less than 50 bucks, whats not to like!!!!!!!!!!