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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

c6 removal.. help!

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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:52 PM
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c6 removal.. help!

hi all, ok so I have been working diligently on the removal of the c6 on my slick and I cannot for the life of me seem to get it out! all the bellhousing bolts, linkage, speedo lines, starter etc are removed and it is just sitting there. and for some reason it just won't slide off! space is extremely limited but I have removed the headers to free up space and nothing will work. are their any hidden bolts I may not know about on the flexplate or the converter or any tips on getting it out? im on my wits end so anything you guys could tell me would be great, thanks!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 12:22 AM
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did you unbolt the converter from the flex plate? there should be 4 bolts on the block side and you will need to turn the engine over by hand or wrench to get to the top bolts.

hope that helps.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 12:35 AM
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I think you might have just saved me from my misery. I'm 16 and attempting to do this on my own on the ground, so its a learning experience. I believe I may have missed
those, thanks!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:04 AM
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:33 AM
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you'll also have to remove the front crossmember since the bell housing will hit the cab floor with the crossmember in
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 07:35 AM
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If your truck was originally equipped with an automatic from the factory, the secondary cross member will be bolted to the radius arm brackets.
If it was originally equipped with a manual transmission, it will be riveted.
You must remove this crossmember to remove an automatic transmission.
There are 4 rivets, 2 on each side to remove.
Use a small electric grinder and remove the heads, then drive them out with a punch. Once they are removed, you will need to remove one bolt/nut on ech side that holds the crossmember to the upper frame rail.
You can then slide it out crossways.
Re-install with grade 8 bolts, and you are done.
WARNING: Do NOT drive the truck without that crossmember in place. It is there to keep the frame from excessive warp and twist, caused by the radius arms impinging upon the brackets.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Confederate Diesel
If your truck was originally equipped with an automatic from the factory, the secondary cross member will be bolted to the radius arm brackets.
If it was originally equipped with a manual transmission, it will be riveted.
You must remove this crossmember to remove an automatic transmission.
There are 4 rivets, 2 on each side to remove.
Use a small electric grinder and remove the heads, then drive them out with a punch. Once they are removed, you will need to remove one bolt/nut on ech side that holds the crossmember to the upper frame rail.
You can then slide it out crossways.
Re-install with grade 8 bolts, and you are done.
WARNING: Do NOT drive the truck without that crossmember in place. It is there to keep the frame from excessive warp and twist, caused by the radius arms impinging upon the brackets.
Actually, from what I have gathered, ALL the 65-66 trucks were riveted together. Even the ones with automatic transmissions. Just most of the auto trannies have been removed at some point and the ONLY way to do it is to drop the cross member between the radius arms.

Unless you are crazy. I did it, but only because I was stupid and willing to lift the cab (other solution)....
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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thanks for all the replies guys! the crossmember has been removed multiple times before by my father so it is bolted in, and for some reason it looks brazed and widened not too sure why? haven't got a chance to remove it, I'm going to get to that tonight. thanks again for all the help. this is the last step before she's on the road, I'm looking forward to driving her to highschool in september that's forsure!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:26 AM
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Considering that the C6 was not available until 1968, the trans has obviously been swapped.

C8TZ-6A023-A (replaced C5TZ-6A023-B) .. Transmission Support Bracket (some peeps call this a crossmember)-Bolts to frame rails.

Applications: 1965/67 F100/250 with MX Cruise-O-Matic / 1968/72 F100/250 360/390 C6.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Considering that the C6 was not available until 1968, the trans has obviously been swapped.

C8TZ-6A023-A (replaced C5TZ-6A023-B) .. Transmission Support Bracket (some peeps call this a crossmember)-Bolts to frame rails.

Applications: 1965/67 F100/250 with MX Cruise-O-Matic / 1968/72 F100/250 360/390 C6.
Actually, I don't think you are quoting the same piece that we are saying needs to be removed. The transmission does not touch, sit on, or get any support from the mid crossmember that needs to be removed.

The C4, FMX and C6 transmissions all bolted to the bellhousing in the front and to a transmission cross member in the rear, at the point of the tail housing. this rearmost "transmission support bracket" is indeed bolted in. And while on the topic -- its the same for both automatic trannies and manuals, except that there are bolt holes in the frame. Forward ones IIRC are for manual, rear are automatic. My 65 was drilled for both, even though it came with a manual. I was indeed pleased when I was swapping over to the C4 that the holes were there, and in the right place even...


But there is cross member between the engine cross member and the "tranny support" -- that one was riveted in. Until someone needs the tranny out.

Sorry to belabor the point, but I didn't want someone someday to be confused with that part number...
 
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