Blown Fuse
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
I do have wiring diagrams, if they will help. I may also be able to come up with a diagram showing a particular connector location if I know the connector number also.
I have 5 diagrams. Here are the first three.
I have 5 diagrams. Here are the first three.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Texas City, Texas
Since last post have removed battery tray on drivers side to try and do what you recommended on disconnecting the harness, it goes directly into a LARGE main harness that doesn’t disconnect.
Hold on..........
Followed the rear wiring, it splits off right by the master cylinder. There is two connections(grey and brown), disconnected the brown one and tried the lights...running lights work with no blown fuse. The break lights don’t work when i did this. I need to look up the brown pig tail connection and follow it back.
Thanks for your help "dchamberlain" and will keep posting the findings.
Hold on..........
Followed the rear wiring, it splits off right by the master cylinder. There is two connections(grey and brown), disconnected the brown one and tried the lights...running lights work with no blown fuse. The break lights don’t work when i did this. I need to look up the brown pig tail connection and follow it back.
Thanks for your help "dchamberlain" and will keep posting the findings.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Pulled dash:
1) Disconnected gauge cluster and all that is connected to the main dash, light switch, radio etc. == Fuse did not blow but had no way to test running lights.
2) Reconnected the light and dimmer switch, == fuse blew about 45 seconds with the running lights on.
3) Reconnected gauge cluster with everything else disconnected == fuse did not blow but had no way to test running lights.
Does this mean the problem is in the wiring between the light switch and the lights themselves?
1) Disconnected gauge cluster and all that is connected to the main dash, light switch, radio etc. == Fuse did not blow but had no way to test running lights.
2) Reconnected the light and dimmer switch, == fuse blew about 45 seconds with the running lights on.
3) Reconnected gauge cluster with everything else disconnected == fuse did not blow but had no way to test running lights.
Does this mean the problem is in the wiring between the light switch and the lights themselves?
Check for a shorted instrument panel bulb that is turned on by the side marker / dimmer switch.
The problem of those plastic bases and the metal in them getting fatigued and failing is documented in tech folder under my posts.
Simple test --- with every single bulb illuminating panel taken out (do instrument cluster first, then do the other things like HVAC panel)
Including the signal bulbs.
Does it still blow?
If yes, leave bulbs out for now.
then take bulbs out of the HVAC panel and see if it still blows.
If it still blows, it is a wrong lead.
If it stops blowing with the panel / HVAC panel bulbs out... you isolated it to those bulbs and their plastic base and the metal clasp.
----------------------
Before replacing bulbs,
take each bulb out and inspect the base / bulb for fit / wear / short.
Replace the entire set of bulbs with brand new bases and bulbs.
-----------------------
I strongly suspect it is there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
Since last post have removed battery tray on drivers side to try and do what you recommended on disconnecting the harness, it goes directly into a LARGE main harness that doesn’t disconnect.
Hold on..........
Followed the rear wiring, it splits off right by the master cylinder. There is two connections(grey and brown), disconnected the brown one and tried the lights...running lights work with no blown fuse. The break lights don’t work when i did this. I need to look up the brown pig tail connection and follow it back.
Thanks for your help "dchamberlain" and will keep posting the findings.
Hold on..........
Followed the rear wiring, it splits off right by the master cylinder. There is two connections(grey and brown), disconnected the brown one and tried the lights...running lights work with no blown fuse. The break lights don’t work when i did this. I need to look up the brown pig tail connection and follow it back.
Thanks for your help "dchamberlain" and will keep posting the findings.
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