Ive never replaced these on a vehicle any pointers on replacing upper and lower ball joints on a 93 ranger 2 whl 4 cyl xlt

 

do a search there are plenty of writeups..... I would use MOOG parts and I also would change the wheel bearings using Timkins and throw on a new set of Pads.

 

I recently had mine done. I priced OEM components, but I couldn't justify buying the Upper Control Arms fitted with the Upper Ball Joint at $145 each. Ford will sell you the UBJ alone for $110, so not much difference once you pay to have it pressed in (unless you can do it yourself). As Power has pointed out, lots of writeups here including manual methods for pressing in the ball joints. I opted to go aftermarket and used a local shop to do the work. Ran me about $450 with parts and labor. I could have saved if I did the UCAs with the UBJs perhaps, but I was concerned about springing the front end when doing the lower arms/ball joints and my personal safety.

Good luck and welcome to FTE!

Kevin

 

Yeah same here i had mine replaces 3 months ago, i got the life time warranty Duralast. And its pretty easy being that its a 2wd, Basic the only thing ull have to watch out for are the camber bushings, there around the upper ball joint and if it dosnt go back in the same place you wheels will be out of alignment, its ok if its off by a hair but try to get it exsact. But with the new balljoints you may need a alignment check anyways so that just something to look into

 

His 93 willhave the TIB suspension. In 1998 they change to the wishbone suspension with the upper and lower control arms The Ford Ranger Front Suspension

IMHO I would use Moog or another quality part. Duralast is OK for some applications . I used a duralst coilpack last week, however on parts that are labor intensive I never use duralast. I would go with Moog. They are not that much more. check out the prices on rockauto.com.....

 

Thanks for the catch Power. I should have looked at the Haynes manual for proper context!!

 

Powersmoked,

I replaced the Ball Joints on my cousin's 2000 Ford Ranger and I think that the procedure would pretty much be the same for your '93. Here's a write-up on the procedure for replacing the Ball Joints on a '00 Ranger:

**REQUIRED TOOLS AND PARTS**
13 mm socket and wrenches
15 mm socket and wrenches
15/16" socket and breaker bar (wrench, etc)
Small standard screwdriver
Pliers (I use wire cutter for this part) to remove cotter pin.
Snap ring pliers (pliers and/or screwdriver works as well)
21 mm socket and wrenches
Ball joint separator
Ball joint press
Large hammer
Various other large sockets (sorry, I don't know exact sizes here)
Large hydraulic press
Ball joints: (bought cheap OEM replacements from Ford Ranger Parts at FordPartsGiant - Genuine OEM Ranger Parts)
Small wrench to install grease fittings into ball joints (3/8" for lower, I can't remember what the upper one needed).
Grease gun


1) Raise the truck, support the truck using jack stands. If you have a lift (like I did), then you're in better shape. However, you don't need it as I've done these jobs with jack stands and a floor jack.
2) Remove wheels.
3) Using 13 mm socket, remove brake caliper bolts (2 of them).
4) Support the lower control arm.. I used one of these screw type supports, you can use the floor jack. Just lift up enough to support the spring pressure.
5) Remove cotter pin.
6) Use a 15/16" socket and remove nut. Turn nut upside down and lightly screw nut on to the ball joint.
7) Using the ball joint separator, separate the lower control arm from the spindle assembly.
8) Leave the lower nut (holding the lower ball joint in place) for now.
9) Now using the 15 mm socket and wrench, remove the pinch bolt holding the upper ball joint to the spindle assembly
10) Lift the upper control arm out of the spindle assembly.
11) Remove the nut holding the lower ball joint in place.
12) Lower the spindle assembly out of the ball joint.
13) Tie it out of the way.
14) After the spindle assembly is removed, lower the lower control arm to relieve the spring tension

OK, now that we have the spindle separated from the upper and lower control arms, it is "just" a matter of getting the ball joints out.

**Lower Ball joint removal**
15) Remove snap ring (screw driver works best).
And then using a hammer, pound the ball joint out.

**Lower ball joint installation**
16) Using a large socket, I was able to just hammer the ball joint in.
If you have the press, it'll press in without any problems. This one is easy.
When I was installing the lower ball joint, I noticed it went in almost all the way very easily. The last 1/8" or so was a little tougher. Be sure it's all the way in so you can install the retaining clip.
17) Install the retaining clip. The new ball joint comes with one.

**Upper Ball Joint**
18) I tried using the ball joint press. It is EXTREMELY tight. Therefore, I ended up removing the upper control arm and using a hydraulic press
19) Mark the position of the control arm cam bolts.
I used a Sharpie pen. You want to mark the orientation of the bolt and the mounting tab.
20) Remove the upper control arm.
Using a 21 mm wrench (you might be able to get a socket and ratchet in there). remove the Nut. You may need the ratchet/wrench to hold the bolt from turning.
**Do Not Turn the Bolt - The bolt and cam are 1 piece and if you force the bolt, you will damage the bolt and/or frame or cam.
21) Remove the upper control arm.

**Removal of ball joint from upper control arm**
22) In my example, I used a hydraulic press with a piece of 3" galvanized pipe and a large socket. Like I said above, you might want to just take it to some shop to have them press out the old ball joint and press in the new one. I am not sure a regular ball joint press (C-clamp style) would work as I didn't attempt it. I wish I had a better answer for you.

**Insertion of upper ball joint into control arm**
23) Insertion of the ball joint into the upper control arm is essentially reverse of extraction. The arrangement of the metal plates is a little different (on the hydraulic press) but the tools are basically the same. Instead of the socket, I used a nice round, flat piece of brass to insure I was pressing straight down on to the ball joint into the control arm.

**Reassembly of the suspension**
OK, almost done here. The hard part is behind you now.
24) Install the upper control arm into the truck.
25) Put the upper control arm in place.
26) Slide the cam bolts into place, don't worry about aligning the marks yet. Just be sure the bolts are in the slots they belong in. If you look at the suspension mounts, you'll know what I mean.
27) Snug the nuts (21 mm wrench) but don't tighten them yet. This is because you'll need to have the upper control arm move freely while you're aligning the upper ball joint with the spindle mount later.
28) Mount the spindle on the lower ball joint.
Don't forget the boot!!
29) Cut the wire supporting the spindle in place.
30) Slide the spindle up on to the lower ball joint.
31) Screw on the nut to hold the ball joint in place.
32) Jack up the lower control arm (compress the spring a bit).
You won't be able to get the spring up enough but it'll be OK.
You will probably lift the vehicle off the jack stands doing this. When you get to that point, stop and leave it there.
33) Insert the upper ball joint into the spindle assembly. (Don't forget the boot)
34) Maneuver the spindle/pinch section into the upper ball joint.
TIP: I used a ratcheting tie down strap to pull the upper and lower control arms together.
35) When the spindle is pulled up into the upper ball joint.
36) Insert pinch bolt and tighten nut using 15mm socket and wrench.
37) Tighten the suspension pivots (upper control arm).
38) Use a 21 mm wrench to tighten the nut.
39) Turn the cam bolts so the marks line up.
40) Tighten the lower ball joint nut and insert the cotter pin.
41) Insert the grease fittings now before you forget.
42) Clean the brake rotor because you've probably gotten greasy hands all over them by now.
43) Install the brakes.
44) Insert the brake pads.
45) Install the brake caliper
46) Bolt the brake caliper down and tighten with 13 mm wrench (socket).

OK, now you're pretty much done.................with one side. Now go do the other side (don't have a beer yet).

After you're done with both sides, check both sides again (make sure nothings going to fall off).
Ball joints snug (in all the way)?
Clips in?
Bolts tight?
Marks lined up?
47) Put the wheels on.
48) Lower the vehicle off the jack stands and get the weight on wheels.
49) Straighten the grease boots
50) Grease the ball joints with the grease gun.
51) Test drive the vehicle in a parking lot.
52) Take it and get a front end alignment.
53) And NOW you can crack open a cold one and admire your handy work. This is a moderate to high intensive job that took me about 7 hours to perform. Get a buddy to help you out if necessary

 

Welcome to FTE

If you like pictures, have a look-see at this link, from an upper & lower ball joint replacement link in our Tech Info" thread atop this forum. Lots of other good wrench turning info there also.
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