A while back there was a thread on battery cables and two sites were listed as being good heavy duty cables.

Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV this site was listed but they have a 3 to 4 week wait.

Home - RowdyRacks this site doesn't sell them anymore.

Does anybody know where some extra heavy duty cables can be had??

 

Short of making them yourself, no...

 

visit your local car audio shop, they have to make custom cables all the time with varying sizes that would prolly suit your needs. although i have to admit, i made my own and its not too hard to do. get some cable, lugs, shrink wrap, heat source, and a big hammer. i bought all the stuff from del-city and paid about $150 for all of it. plus i got to tailor it to my application (i was relocating my batteries). this prolly won't be your preferred method but it is an option.

what do you consider extra heavy duty? some say 1ga is heavy duty. i ran all 2/0ga and i consider that pretty hefty.

-cutts-

 

Make your own out of welding wire. Like fishman said, it's not hard

 

Here is a list of my supplies-
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink

Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)

1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends

9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground






Want me to just make you a set too glenn? This is one of my summer projects.

 

My thoughts are that I need new cables and I want something 'better' then stock. I don't know what stock gauge is? If I wasn't on the road I would consider making my own, maybe next late fall.

Talyn, that's one heck of a write up! And, one heck of a offer!! I will be in MI sometime in Aug, plans have not be finalized. I tried to rep you, can't. PM coming your way.

 

I cut the factory terminals off and soldered new lugs at the ends of all the factory wires. Put some "military" style batttery terminals on, bolted the lugs to the terminals and have not had any problems since.