Correct way to bolt down headers?
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
Correct way to bolt down headers?
Puttin some new exhaust gaskets on my ford and was just wondering what is the best way to to bolt down the headers when putting them back on to eliminate any leaks....
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Prepare all the bolts and washers by applying antiseize to the threads.
Loosely place the header in position and then slide the gasket btwn the head and the header flange.
Thread a couple of bolts to hold the gasket and header in place.
Thread the remainder of the bolts.
Snug all the bolts but do nto tighten.
Heres' the tricky part..... start tightening the bolts in such a manner that it applies even pressure on the header flange. You do not want to bend the flange whatsoever.. jump around as you would when installing an intake manifold or lug nuts to apply compression across the flange evenly.
You'll want the bolts snug but not "Gorilla" tight.. For example, stock exhaust manifold bolts' spec ranges from about 20 ft. lb to 36 ft. lb.
When completed, drive normally but for about every five run cycles (heating and cooling periods) go back and re-snug the bolts. You'll have to do this until the gaskets take their final crush.
Enjoy your leak free headers!
Loosely place the header in position and then slide the gasket btwn the head and the header flange.
Thread a couple of bolts to hold the gasket and header in place.
Thread the remainder of the bolts.
Snug all the bolts but do nto tighten.
Heres' the tricky part..... start tightening the bolts in such a manner that it applies even pressure on the header flange. You do not want to bend the flange whatsoever.. jump around as you would when installing an intake manifold or lug nuts to apply compression across the flange evenly.
You'll want the bolts snug but not "Gorilla" tight.. For example, stock exhaust manifold bolts' spec ranges from about 20 ft. lb to 36 ft. lb.
When completed, drive normally but for about every five run cycles (heating and cooling periods) go back and re-snug the bolts. You'll have to do this until the gaskets take their final crush.
Enjoy your leak free headers!
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
No torque wrench? I've found using a 1/4" drive ratchet I can get the torque in range. Never can get the torque wrench to all of them. I have checked this with a torque wrench. You may be stronger than me so results may vary. Locking fasteners will keep them from backing off. X2 on all the above.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
No torque wrench? I've found using a 1/4" drive ratchet I can get the torque in range. Never can get the torque wrench to all of them. I have checked this with a torque wrench. You may be stronger than me so results may vary. Locking fasteners will keep them from backing off. X2 on all the above.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville, Ca
I just went thru this on my 390, measure the ports on the header's & the exhaust port on the heads, go to the Dougs header website or you can search it on summit website & order the correct size, I went thru 3 sets of gaskets getting a pair that fit correctly or even better go to remflex.com
New User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Why not just run lock washers instead of re torquing the bolts a second time? Seems to me that the main reason gaskets fail is the flange slowly settles and then the gaskets loses its squish. At least with lock washers there's less clamping force lost after everything settles down. Not endorsing the idea though just stirring the pot
+1 on the antiseize
+1 on the antiseize
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Stage 8 locking fastener hardware is fine. A few more bucks but I think it's a PITA with the tang and then the little E-clip. Regular lock washers? Sure, to each his own- Some headers come with them and some do not.
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Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
[quote=HIO Silver;10487751]But your post had a "?" Hence my conclusion. I understand your syntax now.. it didn't quite translate on the screen and is a pitfall of technology.
Stage 8 locking fastener hardware is fine. A few more bucks but I think it's a PITA with the tang and then the little E-clip. Regular lock washers? Sure, to each his own- Some headers come with them and some do not.[/quote
I should have been more precise with my answer. I did agree with your procedure. However, there is an exception. There are gaskets that you presoak in water, and take them to final torque before heating. If you try to tighten them once dry, they will crack like ceramic. These should be avoided in my opinion.
Stage 8 locking fastener hardware is fine. A few more bucks but I think it's a PITA with the tang and then the little E-clip. Regular lock washers? Sure, to each his own- Some headers come with them and some do not.[/quote
I should have been more precise with my answer. I did agree with your procedure. However, there is an exception. There are gaskets that you presoak in water, and take them to final torque before heating. If you try to tighten them once dry, they will crack like ceramic. These should be avoided in my opinion.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
If old 1/4 header plate should be replaced. 5/16-3/8" are better this is one area every one has a little different way. Headers are one of those think that can last for a good number of yrs. before gaskets fail. And it not fixed in a timely matter your burn out the matting surface on the head which can only be fixed by removing and having it milled smooth again. To do it right. Their is some stuff called Therm o steel that works pretty you if you have the surface prep right. All gasket will end up just failing if head is burned out. So make sure the your heads manifold matting surface is good. Me,I like the Sanderson headers they use No Gaskets just high temp rtv..
orich
orich
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