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leaky headers!

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Old May 12, 2016 | 10:10 AM
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leaky headers!

I had to beat and bend the crap out of my headers to get them around the Cordoba steering box. I hear this is a common problem. Can I get them to stop leaking if I can get a bit more torque on the bolts? The hex head bolts that came with the econo headers tend to round off when I try to snug them down. Anyone have success doing this with the ARP bolts with the 12 point head?
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 11:56 AM
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You may get better torque results with either allen bolts or studs w/nuts, at least in my experience.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 12:51 PM
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I have used ARP reduced hex header bolts. They work great. Mr. Gasket makes header bolt lock washers that I have had good luck with as well. The washer is thick so a slightly longer header bolt is usually needed. Last time I bought them I think I got 1" long bolts.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 12:58 PM
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What type of gasket are you using ? Either use the copper sheet gaskets or the copper colored / base racing exhaust header sealant . Either never failed on the race car or the hot rod truck .
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
You may get better torque results with either allen bolts or studs w/nuts, at least in my experience.
This gets my vote, if you can get the headers on/off with the studs in the head. ARP makes 12-point nuts for their stud kits, too.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 01:55 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
Originally Posted by JakRak
This gets my vote, if you can get the headers on/off with the studs in the head. ARP makes 12-point nuts for their stud kits, too.
looks to me like the stud uses a standard 3/8 nut and that's requires a 7/16 box end wrench and that won't clear the header tube. The far back one won't clear a 3/8 box end wrench so I'm left using the open end wrench and can't get much on that. A 3/8-16 allen head uses a 5/16 allen wrench so I might go that route for the ones that I can't get to with a socket.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 01:58 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
Originally Posted by firstrider
What type of gasket are you using ? Either use the copper sheet gaskets or the copper colored / base racing exhaust header sealant . Either never failed on the race car or the hot rod truck .
Thanks for the comments.

I have 2 sets of Felpro. one is thin with foil on one side and they were leaking a lot. The other set is thicker, maybe 0.040" and foil on both sides and those are leaking a lot less.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 02:35 PM
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ARP makes header bolts with a 5/16 or 3/8 hex so you can get a box end wrench or socket on them. If your headers have thin flanges, 1/4" thick steel, as opposed to 3/8" steel or at least 5/16" thick stainless steel it might be difficult to permanently stop leaks. High quality headers typically don't have leak issues.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 02:51 PM
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Yes....ARP bolts...but buy some Remflex gaskets. They're a little spendy, but you'll never have a leak again. They are a relatively thick graphite composite sponge. The gaskets will compress to fill gaps and will handle the heat from exhaust.

Dan
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 03:14 PM
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The fact that the supplied bolts are rounding off tells you right there that you should not use them. I vote for the allen bolts.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1956_F100
ARP makes header bolts with a 5/16 or 3/8 hex so you can get a box end wrench or socket on them. If your headers have thin flanges, 1/4" thick steel, as opposed to 3/8" steel or at least 5/16" thick stainless steel it might be difficult to permanently stop leaks. High quality headers typically don't have leak issues.

Ditto, and I have used socket head cap screws in tight locations. If the headers have thin flanges blown out gaskets will be a problem.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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I think your best bet would be to try and straighten the flange some first. Either in a press or some makeshift jig perhaps.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
Originally Posted by 1956_F100
ARP makes header bolts with a 5/16 or 3/8 hex so you can get a box end wrench or socket on them. If your headers have thin flanges, 1/4" thick steel, as opposed to 3/8" steel or at least 5/16" thick stainless steel it might be difficult to permanently stop leaks. High quality headers typically don't have leak issues.
thanks. they are fleabay cheap, only cost $130, but have 5/16" flanges.

I bought some stainless allen head machine screws from the hardware store and will try 'em on the bolt locations that I can't reach with a socket.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 07:02 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
Originally Posted by Jules The Great
I think your best bet would be to try and straighten the flange some first. Either in a press or some makeshift jig perhaps.
I've done that - but then the tube "straightens" out and will not clear the steering box.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 07:20 PM
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Hmm, can you somehow hold it and bend the tube at the same time, I assume you have already tried that too though.
 
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