I have most likely upper and lower ball joints that need replacment the entire front end squeaks by moving steering wheel and you can feel the wandering at 30-35mph. I don't have any special tools for this job , Is this somthing I should get into myself. I have read that lower may be easier than the upper.
I just don't want to get in over my head.
Any encourgment and insight for DIY'er? Thanks

 

Upper is a lot easier than lower if you replace the whole upper control arm, but you'll need to get an alignment if you go that route.

It's a pretty straightforward job that requires very little in the way of specialty tools. I "borrowed" a ball joint press and axle nut sockets from my local Advance Auto. It's basically a free rental, even if you don't buy the parts from them. A pickle fork is really the only other specialty tool i can think of, and they can be had for $10-20 at any parts store. Heck Advance may even rent those, I already had my own so I never asked about that. If you are going to do tie rod ends as well you might want to make sure you have both size forks on hand before you start

Make sure you have a good selection of metric sockets on hand. I seem to remember using sockets in the 18mm - 24mm range mostly ( don't hold me to that, it's been a few months since I did mine). You might need a couple of each size ( like when removing upper control arm bolts) so make sure you have at least a deep and standard of each size

I also did my tie rod ends at same time since i was that deep in and getting an alignment anyway.

I wanted to use all Moog parts and found Amazon to be cheapest place overall. Rock Auto had better initial prices, but because parts were shipping from different warehouses, Amazon was lowest delivered cost for me. YMMV

It's really not a hard job, but can be a little time consuming, especially the first time you tackle it.

 

Thank-Q first of all!

I never heard of MOOG Parts before, I did find some parts on the E(b**)-auction site. Not sure of the quality.

How much time would you think I would need? weekend?

 

MOOGs carry a lifetime warranty, and I've always been happy with their stuff

As far as time goes, it really comes down to how much you plan to do and your experience level. Well prepared and with basic automotive experience if all goes smooth you are probably looking at 2-3 hours per side for a first timer working alone.

 

oh trust me I will need 2-3 hours padding on top of yours I'm sure!
experience level, eh pretty GOOD, just never done this yet.

I have CJ5 79's, Bronco-80's era shade tree back ground.

Mercruiser Alpha One drive experience too.

I will look into MOOG parts, thanks.

 

Oh BTW, would you have any of your part list numbers by chance?

 

LOL, I can do you one better . (Can't remember if the advance auto prices reflected an online sale or not, but even with the sale they were most expensive). Not sure why the ball joint prices disappeared off my spreadsheet, but i seem to remember I paid about $50 for uppers w/CA and around $30 for lowers (each)

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BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" align=right x:num>2</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" height=17>k8722t</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0">Control Arm with Ball Joint</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" align=right x:num>1</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0"></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" height=17>k8724t</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0">Control Arm with Ball Joint</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" align=right x:num>1</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; 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You ROCK!
That sure gives me a target to aim at!

 

if you order online at Advanceauto.com, you can pick up at your local store. Enter"BIG35" for the coupon code at checkout and get $35 off an $85 order!!

 

I just did this job on my 99 expedition (4WD, 5.4L). This was my first time doing this job and I had my father come over and help. Total time was about 7 hours. I replaced the upper control arms (Dorman 520-215, 520-216 with grease fittings), lower ball joints (Moog K8695T with grease fittings), and idler arm (Moog K8739T with grease fittings). Total cost for parts was about ~$300, but I split my order in two separate orders of about $150 each and used Advance Auto code VISA to get $50 off $150 dollars....my cost was ~$200. I think this job would be impossible without the right tools. I rented a ball joint press kit, pittman puller kit, and a socket kit from Advance Auto (they refund your money when you return the kit). The axle nut was 35 mm and we needed a variety of sockets from 18mm to 24mm, plus breaker bars and torque wrench. Also, having 4 hands is a major plus. I guess this job can be done by one person, but it is much easier with two. I wouldn't want to have to attach the axle to the hub while at the same time trying to attach the lower ball joint to the knuckle by myself.

There are several good posts on doing this job. Here are the links:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...s-learned.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html

 

That's pretty much the worst part of the entire job when doing this alone. (especially with the rotor attached) It seems impossible when you do the first side, but at least when you get to the second side you remember doing it not too long ago so you at least know it can be done!!!

 

Hats off to everyone who does it by themselves. I was thankful to have my Dads help. Ford quoted me $800 to do the lower ball joints and idler arm. I did all that plus the upper control arms for $200, 7 hours of time, and a little frustration. The best feeling is knowing I saved a bunch of money although I do still have to get an alignment.

 

Yeah, as I recall that wasn't too fun. Having a compressor and air tools makes a major positive difference if you're doing the job by yourself.

 

Wow that's cheaper than in my area. Hell Ford just quoted me $1150 just to replace 2 air solenoid valves on the rear air springs, which takes probably all of 1 hr for both sides. Of course I just replaced the air springs, solenoids and shocks (brand new parts) for only $326. They ought to be ashamed to quote such a price. They just didn't know that I can work on the truck just as well as their mechanics. I just smiled and said give me my truck.

Congrats on your accomplishment

 

I took my Expedition to the Ford dealer today (big mistake) to have it aligned since I replaced the upper control arms. They called me back about 2 hours later and said the alignment was going to cost $270 because they needed to install a camber adjustment kit on the right upper control arm. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all the "camber adjustment kit" is is an elongated washer with marks. I believe they use it with the bolt that attaches the upper control arm to the frame to move the upper control arm in and out to adjust the camber and/or caster. I told them I would be over in a few minutes to pick up my truck so please take it down from the rack. They still charged me $50. The upper control arm attaches to the frame in an elongated hole on the brackets. Isn't this a way to adjust caster/camber? Anyway, I took it to a tire shop and they aligned it for $60 (without installing a caster adjustment kit).