Cruise Control Issues. STILL
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
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From: Northern California
Cruise Control Issues. STILL
My cruise stopped working while on a trip back from Yosemite with my travel trailer. I picked up and installed a new pressure switch on the brake master cylinder. Took it for a drive, and it worked, so I thought everything was good to go. I hit the brakes to disengage cruise, accelerated, and when I tried to set it again, nothing. Im wondering if the switches may be bad. The tech and parts guy at the dealership said its rare for the clock spring to go out. Puzzled.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
Try this cruise control test procedure. It will test all the switches and wiring to them and give you any cruise control codes if there are any.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8315477
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8315477
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 753
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From: Mesa,AZ
I was told if my horn worked than my clock spring was good. But that was not the case. My clock spring was bad and the horn worked. I too replace the pressure switch and that did nothing. I have heard it is more common for the clock spring to go bad so I went with that and problem solved.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
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From: Northern California
I guess I'll try the click spring next. Everything else works, horn, radio controls, etc. No ABS or airbag light on. Cruise light doesn't illuminate, and when I tried the diagnosis link listed above, nothing happened.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 753
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From: Mesa,AZ
I did not have the cruise control test procedure to go by but I played around with the cruise buttons and nothing worked the air bag light came on about three months later. And most of what I had read pointed to the clock spring except the horn worked so I went for it and it solved both problems. Hopefully it will work for you.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
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From: Northern California
Dealer has the clock spring for $99, and the replacement cruise switches for, **** me!, $92. Both are non-refundable. Really having a hard time deciding which route to go. Everything else works, and I have no codes or airbag light. If we were talking $20, no biggie, but $100 per........Grrrrrr.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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A can of circuit cleaner and cleaning all contacts.
R/R all plugs, remove corrosion, check for chafe.
Bet you that will do it for zero parts cost.
I would rig an aux switch to test before I buy a new switch for $100.
Parts replacement artists would have you replace things when all that is needed is cleaning contacts and corrosion on leads.
R/R all plugs, remove corrosion, check for chafe.
Bet you that will do it for zero parts cost.
I would rig an aux switch to test before I buy a new switch for $100.
Parts replacement artists would have you replace things when all that is needed is cleaning contacts and corrosion on leads.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
According to the service manual you need a two jaw wheel puller (I've attached the picture).
It also says not to try to remove it without the puller, you can damage the column bearings.
Some auto parts stores will loan tools like this.
It also says not to try to remove it without the puller, you can damage the column bearings.
Some auto parts stores will loan tools like this.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
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From: Northern California
Good info thanks! I was tugging and pulling on it, and it wouldn't budge. I'll try and see if my local Kragen has one available tomm.