Front Coil Spring Replacement
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 157
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From: Athens, TN
Front Coil Spring Replacement
While doing my oil change today, I found out why my truck has a slight 'lean' to it... I thought it was caused by the spacers that were in the front coil springs- And some of it probably is- but I also found that the drivers side coil spring is broken.
I've never replaced one- It seems straight forward enough, but I figured I'd check to be sure before I started taking things apart. I'd assume it's just a matter of jacking it up, using a spring compressor to remove the old one, then install a new one?
While I'm up there, I will probably do the shocks, too- Since they are right there. What else should I look at doing while things are apart? Bushings? King pins? I don't want to get in over my head- But from the looks of things I think I can handle most of this...
I think I'm also going to do the brake hoses, too- They don't look TOO bad, but I don't trust 'em. I have NO idea how old they are...
-Andrew
I've never replaced one- It seems straight forward enough, but I figured I'd check to be sure before I started taking things apart. I'd assume it's just a matter of jacking it up, using a spring compressor to remove the old one, then install a new one?
While I'm up there, I will probably do the shocks, too- Since they are right there. What else should I look at doing while things are apart? Bushings? King pins? I don't want to get in over my head- But from the looks of things I think I can handle most of this...
I think I'm also going to do the brake hoses, too- They don't look TOO bad, but I don't trust 'em. I have NO idea how old they are...
-Andrew
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 109
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From: Los Angeles, Ca
Andgott,
One word of advice if you are replacing the front coil spring, be careful with the piece of metal that acts as a sort of retention lock (I forget it's proper name but it is at the top of the coil and holds it more or less in place).
I managed to break BOTH of mine when I did a disc brake upgrade and that is on a fairly rust free truck. It is very likely that these pieces dramatically weaken over the years and should just be replaced.
My recommendation is that you inspect yours while you are there and ascertain if they should be replaced or not.
As far as the process is concerned, you are pretty much correct. The only thing to add is that there is also a bottom cup that holds the spring in place and will have to be removed as well. I think you can get to it with a long socket and extension although it is possible to do it with just the right sized wrench (although definitely more tedious).
One word of advice if you are replacing the front coil spring, be careful with the piece of metal that acts as a sort of retention lock (I forget it's proper name but it is at the top of the coil and holds it more or less in place).
I managed to break BOTH of mine when I did a disc brake upgrade and that is on a fairly rust free truck. It is very likely that these pieces dramatically weaken over the years and should just be replaced.
My recommendation is that you inspect yours while you are there and ascertain if they should be replaced or not.
As far as the process is concerned, you are pretty much correct. The only thing to add is that there is also a bottom cup that holds the spring in place and will have to be removed as well. I think you can get to it with a long socket and extension although it is possible to do it with just the right sized wrench (although definitely more tedious).
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
To disconnect the lower part of the spring you'll need a 1 and 1/8 inch box wrench that you can snake between the coils. You'll also need the same size socket, half inch drive, for the bolt head on the bottom. Depending on how uncooperative they are, you may need an impact gun. Make sure everything is well lubricated. As Nonoodlez mentioned, be careful with the little brackets/nutplates located under the spring hat which retains the spring at the top via two bolts through the spring hat. Be sure they're well lubricated before you loosen them. I unloaded the suspension from the bottom and therefore didn't need a spring compressor. Once everything was disconnected the springs just fell out. Doing the bushings is a good idea, and the brake hoses, but I wouldn't mess with the kingpins unless you have reason to suspect there's something wrong with them. I removed mine today and it took a shop with a 30 ton press to get one of them apart. The bushings were so stuck it took drilling the rubber to schmithereens (sp?) to create enough wiggle room to drive the centers out. Good luck!
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 370
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From: Near Nashille, TN
You can get Moog brand replacement springs from Rock Auto or Amazon for around $68 for constant rate.. or $75 for variable rate front springs. I've got the variable rate (moog cc808), but can't say how they do until the truck is back on the road.
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vr springs
How do you like the Moog variable rate springs? Thanks, Dave
Junior User
Joined: May 2015
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Original post was from a few years ago, so I'm not sure if you'll see a reply. I just bought the same CC808s for a disc brake/power steering swap, so hopefully can share my experience soon. My question is whether the CC808's will work with the lower spring seats from my 66 F250, pigtail seems tighter on the CC808. I hope to find out this weekend!
Regards,
Corey
Regards,
Corey
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 772
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I didn't have to remove the bottom spring cup. After I loosened the radius arm bushings, I just pushed down on the arm and the springs came out. I did do a whole dissassembly off the truck as I had the arms and I-beams powdercoated and the king pins weren't good. I wedged the I-beam in a tree and the large nuts came off with a ratchet and cheater bar without too much trouble.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2015
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Thanks hoss73ford - I've got my 78 f250 donor front suspension blasted, painted and ready to reassemble, but the bottom spring seat cups were rusted out. I'm wondering if the seats from my 66 will fit the Moog cc808 springs. It seems like the pigtail at the bottom of the Moog spring only has about a 2 1/2" opening for the seat, and I think it's closer to 3" in diameter if it's close to the same size as the rusty 78 spring seat. Did you use the same Moog cc808 springs in your build, or just reuse your old springs?
Corey
Corey
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I don't have my '66 with me as it's in offsite storage so I don't know. My old springs are good and I reused them, like to keep it genuine Ford unless the parts are bad. All my parts (radius arms, I-beams, coil springs and cups) were heavy on surface rust but after I had them blasted and painted they looked good as new without any chunks missing. While they were out, it was still warm enough in November I was able to strip off the surface rust and get the spray gun out and paint the front end. Been really lucky this fall and winter with good temperatures for working. The drag or center link simply would not come off the pitman arm but since I'm going to power steering anyways, I cut it off and go all new steering parts. They'll be much easier to put in when the old motor is out, probably next month.
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