Break-in confusion...
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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Break-in confusion...
Looking for some advice on how to treat my new 390 (warranteed for the third time...).
The instructions from the mechanic (which I'm unsure of) along with internet data, is cumbersome- lots of conflicting information.
Aren't there three easy steps or something?
The instructions from the mechanic (which I'm unsure of) along with internet data, is cumbersome- lots of conflicting information.
Aren't there three easy steps or something?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,805
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Newly rebuilt huh?
My method is drive her easy first few hundred miles, no constant speeds but vary the speeds and avoid wide open and high RPMs as much as possible. Watch temp and oil pressure close, she may run a little warm due to being fresh tight tollerances but don't let her run "hot".
Then at 500 miles, change oil and oil filter, and then ...
... just drive her like you'll drive her.
My method is drive her easy first few hundred miles, no constant speeds but vary the speeds and avoid wide open and high RPMs as much as possible. Watch temp and oil pressure close, she may run a little warm due to being fresh tight tollerances but don't let her run "hot".
Then at 500 miles, change oil and oil filter, and then ...
... just drive her like you'll drive her.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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My concern was the mechanic claimed that along with varied speed, things like minor lugging, hills and long drives would be useful. Some of the other data I read was conflicting.
For instance - I've only driven around 60 easy miles, but some long, steep hills are unavoidable. There's info that says that's bad.
Thoughts?
For instance - I've only driven around 60 easy miles, but some long, steep hills are unavoidable. There's info that says that's bad.
Thoughts?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
When I bought my 05 F150 brand new, I broke it in by hitting the speed limiter on the highway right after I pulled out of the dealership - never had any problems.
Drive it the way you normally would. That is the use that it would be subjected to on a normal basis, so that's how it should be broken in. The main thing to remember is to not STRESS the motor, i.e. heavy towing, overreving, sustaining high-rpm for long periods of time, overheating. As long as you don't beat on it you won't have any problems. If it blows up from climbing a steep hill, then it wasn't put together right in the first place.
Drive it the way you normally would. That is the use that it would be subjected to on a normal basis, so that's how it should be broken in. The main thing to remember is to not STRESS the motor, i.e. heavy towing, overreving, sustaining high-rpm for long periods of time, overheating. As long as you don't beat on it you won't have any problems. If it blows up from climbing a steep hill, then it wasn't put together right in the first place.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,186
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From: townsend DE
When I bought my 05 F150 brand new, I broke it in by hitting the speed limiter on the highway right after I pulled out of the dealership - never had any problems.
Drive it the way you normally would. That is the use that it would be subjected to on a normal basis, so that's how it should be broken in. The main thing to remember is to not STRESS the motor, i.e. heavy towing, overreving, sustaining high-rpm for long periods of time, overheating. As long as you don't beat on it you won't have any problems. If it blows up from climbing a steep hill, then it wasn't put together right in the first place.
Drive it the way you normally would. That is the use that it would be subjected to on a normal basis, so that's how it should be broken in. The main thing to remember is to not STRESS the motor, i.e. heavy towing, overreving, sustaining high-rpm for long periods of time, overheating. As long as you don't beat on it you won't have any problems. If it blows up from climbing a steep hill, then it wasn't put together right in the first place.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 146
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From: Bristow, VA
I have a friend that rebuilt the engine in my old Camero, he builds stock car engines and his advice to me was, "If its built right it'll run right!"
Stock car drivers don't build an engine and then baby it for the first 500miles now do they.
Stock car drivers don't build an engine and then baby it for the first 500miles now do they.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 632
Likes: 1
From: Bremerton, Wa
I've broken in several new motorcycle engines,
never had any issues long term
most modern engines are more or less "broken in" (rings seated) after the first 2-3 heat cycles
I subscribe to the school of thought "break it in like you intend to run it"
if a dyno was available, that's how I'd break in my engines
one thing I do try to avoid is "Compression breaking" or downshifting to slow down
it creates a vaccuume in the cyl, and can pull oil past the rings (if they aren't completely seated)
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
very well known source
never had any issues long term
most modern engines are more or less "broken in" (rings seated) after the first 2-3 heat cycles
I subscribe to the school of thought "break it in like you intend to run it"
if a dyno was available, that's how I'd break in my engines
one thing I do try to avoid is "Compression breaking" or downshifting to slow down
it creates a vaccuume in the cyl, and can pull oil past the rings (if they aren't completely seated)
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
very well known source
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Bremerton, Wa
see my link in the above post
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Irondale, Al.
If the engine has a flat tappet cam the first 15-20 minutes after start-up is the most critical time for proper break-in. The engine should have been run around 2000-2500 rpm when it first starts. After that break-in period the oil should be changed and driven normally for about 500 miles then the oil changed again and then let it rip. Also, if a flat tappet cam was used a zinc additive is needed to protect the cam lobes.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 16
From: Ideeho
I agree with the majority of posts above. Break it in like youre going to drive it. If it was built right, it will hang together. The 3 things that I avoid on a new motor is heavy lugging, sustained high rpm at the same rpm (vary your speed a bit) and heavy pulling. After the first 500 miles, drop the oil, change the filter and put it to work!!!!!!!
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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Hey guys- I appreciate the input.
After reading the posts, I did communicate with the mechanic and he did in fact clarify that the initial 20 minute, 2500 rpm break-in was performed and the motor currently has zinc break-in oil.
Thanks again for keeping it consistent and simple- I will follow the instructions.
After reading the posts, I did communicate with the mechanic and he did in fact clarify that the initial 20 minute, 2500 rpm break-in was performed and the motor currently has zinc break-in oil.
Thanks again for keeping it consistent and simple- I will follow the instructions.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
Hey Joe! Nice to see it's gonna be up and running again. Agree with the above, after initial cam break in, drive it like you're going to drive but avoid steady rpm, lugging etc. like everyone mentioned for 500mi. Just remember to continue to use an oil that is rated high enough in zddp for flat tappet cams. By Aug or Sept. of this year even the diesel oils that people have been substituting won't have enough due to the goal of longer catalytic converter life in the new cars. Try one of these, Valvoline VR1, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs. There are quite a few good articles about how new oils don't play nice with old engines on the Joe Gibbs site.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,103
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From: Southern California
Except race-spec'd engines are built much looser....you can typically slip a "butter knife" inbetween the cylider walls and the pistons of a race engine.
There is a big difference between and oem engine, reman and and a custom build street engine and a race spec'd engine.
Yes the oems & remans (with the ecxpetion of the piston rings) are almost broke in when we get them.
hand/custom built street- whole new ballgame......very tight, takes up to 1000 miles before the rings seat.
Race spec'd engines....couple hours on the dyno and they are ready.
There is a big difference between and oem engine, reman and and a custom build street engine and a race spec'd engine.
Yes the oems & remans (with the ecxpetion of the piston rings) are almost broke in when we get them.
hand/custom built street- whole new ballgame......very tight, takes up to 1000 miles before the rings seat.
Race spec'd engines....couple hours on the dyno and they are ready.
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