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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Turbo time

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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 05:53 AM
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Turbo time

While doing my injectors, I noticed that I have play in the turbo shaft, the wheel moves side to side only, and barely makes a scraping noise. I got a kit from Rons turbo.
Is there any writeups on rebuilding the turbo?
Do I need to balance it, thatll be another week without truck and $20 more.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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How much are you really saving vs getting one ready to go from Ron?
Local guy got one for $550 or so shipped, I think.
I wouldn't attemp it for that much.

I have no fear of working on injectors, trans, motors, etc, but with something spinning north of 25k rpm's I'd rather leave that to the pros.

Sorry, I have no helpful info for you.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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i had talked to ron before and he said unless you clipped somehting and the wheel is damaged then you should have i balanced but if its a stock turbo and looks good then you should be all set. replacing the bearings is VERY easy, youll see just take your time. i appologize but i lost my pictures i had taken of my turbo rebuild.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Thanks rideracelivemx7. So if the same wheels are going back in the turbo, then the balance is fine. You align the wheels in the same position as when taken off. I have no in/out play so I should have no unseen issues with thrust wear.

Is there only 4 bolts on the y-pipe flange and one bolt holding the turbo to the pedestal?

Should I gut the EBPV and solenoid?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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i did not realign my wheels in the same direction, be carful with the tq on the new wheel, they can and will strip out really easy, i just snugged mine up with a 1/4'' ratchet and then gave it one more go. yep 4 bolts on the flange, 4 on the pedistal. take your time! you will get fustrated taking that hog out. ive got mine down to a science now LOL you can gut it if you want, i didnt but when not used it can be a weak link and leak eventually. mines dry so i dont care.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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I guess I should gut it then. The EBS is bias @30psi, so the EBPV never works. The rear of the EBPV solenoid on the pedestal weeps alittle too. Thing hasnt worked in the 4yrs ive owned it.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=ebpv+removal

Here is a link with ways to gut the ebpv. I did what gobstopper did.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 05:14 AM
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What size pipe plug do I need to plug the rod hole and what size freeze plug for the butterfly shaft hole?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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put a tack weld on plugs side to side isnt a big deal if it hasent touched the housing on it own u should be fine its axis in and out is the play u should worry about.they have a ped that has ebpv delete i know beans carrys it
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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Before I remove my turbo, have I correctly tested it? Pull the shaft to a side and rotate it. If it makes a chirping noise then its touching the housing and should be rebuilt.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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I got lots of pictures and info if its needed on assembly and dissasembly from the few times i've tore mine down.

There are some no-no's as well.

Torquing the impeller down is important.
It will tighten itself further if needed though.
But I stripped my perfect wheel out and had to get a different one.
There is no torque spec for it. Its all a feel thing.
 
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