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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:19 PM
  #31  
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Unless your intake manifold is cracked or broken, keep it for now and worry about upgrading it later. Take a wire wheel to it and clean it up if you want.

Get everything working the way it should first, then upgrade.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by andym
Unless your intake manifold is cracked or broken, keep it for now and worry about upgrading it later. Take a wire wheel to it and clean it up if you want.

Get everything working the way it should first, then upgrade.
If I upgrade the carb with a newer one with more barrels, won't I need a new intake manifold that fits the more barrel having carb though? If it is significantly cheaper to stick with a similar carb to the one I have now then I will most likely do that until I can afford a nice one. However, I just want to make sure I have it right in my head, lol.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #33  
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Yeah, you would need a 4v intake if you went with a 4v carb. You might be able to use an adapter but we're again getting into an area I don't know much about.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by andym
Yeah, you would need a 4v intake if you went with a 4v carb. You might be able to use an adapter but we're again getting into an area I don't know much about.
Awesome, thank you so much. I'm think about ready to make a new thread for specifics on what pieces I should buy. Do you have any recommendations?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by andym
Good question. Wish I knew. Venturi maybe?
Yes, venturi.

Originally Posted by andym
There's a formula that you follow. It involve the displacement and the max RPMs then engine will ever see. Too much carb is indeed just as bad as not enough. You have to size it correctly for the engine. I don't know the formula off the top of my head.
Engine cubic inches X max RPM divided by 3456

How do I tell what size carb I need?

Originally Posted by Muidem
Just to clarify, from your description it sounds like EGR is a completely (or nearly) independent system from the carb? Can I still upgrade to a non-EGR variety carburetor without breaking the law or am I still confused?
Officially (legally) tampering with or removing the factory-installed automobile emissions equipment is a Federal offense under Section 203(a)(3)(A) and (B) of the Clean Air Act.

See Transportation and Air Quality | US EPA

Section 205 of the Act provides for a maximum civil penalty of $2,500 (used to be $10,000) per compromised device for any person who violates Section 203(a)(3)(A) or (B).

See http://www.epa.gov/oms/regs/fuels/cff/memo-1a.txt

There are some states that are no longer mandating tests of "older" vehicles and so some people remove this stuff, but their lack of enforcement does not supersede or replace the federal laws against tampering.

What the vehicle came with out of the factory wrt emissions controls is what Federal law says must always be installed forever. This is something to consider if you the truck needs to be inspected before you can sell it.

Clean Air Act | US EPA
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #36  
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BTW Muidem, can you fill out the rest of your profile so we can see where you're at? click User CP in the top-left to do it.

BTW I'm not trying to talk you out of doing the DS2 swap, just explaining what you're getting involved with. What you do is your choice.

If you have a test light or analog voltage meter, you might read the computer codes and see what the computer thinks it's having problems with, here's how:

Ford Fuel Injection
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #37  
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To answer an earlier question, you could use a stock manifold with a 4 bbl carb, but they aren't designed to flow very well and would pretty much cancel out any benefit the 4 bbl would provide. Now a 2 bbl on the 1 bbl intake, I could see that- but not anything bigger.

Sam
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:39 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
BTW Muidem, can you fill out the rest of your profile so we can see where you're at? click User CP in the top-left to do it.
Done, I think I got all the relevant info. Some of that I didn't know or wasn't sure however.

Originally Posted by ctubutis
BTW I'm not trying to talk you out of doing the DS2 swap, just explaining what you're getting involved with. What you do is your choice.

If you have a test light or analog voltage meter, you might read the computer codes and see what the computer thinks it's having problems with, here's how:

Ford Fuel Injection
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing
I understand and appreciate that. I was not aware of the illegality of removing certain pieces.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #39  
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Thanks so much for all yall's responses so far. I've learned a lot from this thread alone. I went to the junk yard today hunting for some pieces and I've made a thread about that. When I have more specific questions, I'll go ahead and open a new thread. Thanks again =)
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #40  
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I just wanted to say good luck with your new truck! 300 - I6 is an awesome work truck engine.

Just give her a full tune up and have a compression test done. This will get you off to a good start to begin with. You'll know she's tuned up and know what condtion the engine is in.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #41  
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another way is with a D.U.I dizzy. setup one wire setup like and IMHO it's worth it, you can toss the engine wire harness as well as the ECM if smog test are not a state issue
real simply hook up and for 400 bucks it's worth it
 
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