oil cooler issues!!! help!
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oil cooler issues!!! help!
Oil cooler leaking into radiator, coolant is black. Can't find a new COMPLETE UNIT anywhere, or a reman. Unit with a warranty. Ford dealer has center section for 587.00$. No end
caps are available , orings and gaskets are special order - not in stock. Mechanic says $400 in labor to change it out. Plus rebuild time. Don't want to spend 1000+$$ to fix it.
I'd like to eliminate the cooler and go to something aftermarket. Short of that, I want to buy a complete unit with a warranty. All help and advice appreciated!!!
7.3 i.d.I. in 94 model e-350 ambulance.
caps are available , orings and gaskets are special order - not in stock. Mechanic says $400 in labor to change it out. Plus rebuild time. Don't want to spend 1000+$$ to fix it.
I'd like to eliminate the cooler and go to something aftermarket. Short of that, I want to buy a complete unit with a warranty. All help and advice appreciated!!!
7.3 i.d.I. in 94 model e-350 ambulance.
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I see from other threads that the cooler orings fail much more often than the cooler itself. I don't have any fluid leaking - oil or water- externally. How often does the cooler fail?
Also, I read why I shouldn't try to change/bypass the cooler, so forget the part about replacing the cooler with something else.
I'm freaking out a little on getting this thing right and quickly. It is my daily work truck and I need it to be solid. I can't have it be down long.
Also, I read why I shouldn't try to change/bypass the cooler, so forget the part about replacing the cooler with something else.
I'm freaking out a little on getting this thing right and quickly. It is my daily work truck and I need it to be solid. I can't have it be down long.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Well you could get the orings and gaskets online. Get a machine shop to pull it apart and you can then get them to press it back together. There is the DIY department as well but more difficult. Thats about the only part that didnt leak in my last engine that i have in the garage. When they go, they go.
Trailering
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: San Antonio, TX
When I replaced my engine a few years ago, dealing with the oil cooler was the BIGGEST headache. I'm sure part of it was not having the exact right tools, but getting it apart was difficult, and then trying to press it back together turned out to be impossible to do right. I finally got it together, but in the process must have rolled or nicked an o-ring, and had a pretty good leak into my coolant. I ended up taking it to a shop, and they took it back apart, replaced the o-rings, and pressed it back together. 45K miles later it's still working great. My advice is save yourself some major headaches, and shell out the cash to have a pro handle it. If you're not experienced with it, chances are you could end up there anyway.
Also, you are correct that the end caps aren't available to be replaced, but they are just a solid piece of metal. Unless they are cracked or damaged in some way, they shouldn't need replacing.
Also, you are correct that the end caps aren't available to be replaced, but they are just a solid piece of metal. Unless they are cracked or damaged in some way, they shouldn't need replacing.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Princeton MN
I found resealing my oil cooler quite easy, a good plastic deadblow hammer got it apart, i used a pick to get the o-rings out and used assembly lube on all the rings when i put them in. the outer rings on the ends must be placed on the bundle so you don't cut them when you put it back together, the same deadblow hammer tapped it back together, i ran water for a few weeks just incase it leaked, but no leaks!
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 837
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From: Tulsa, OK
Hell I would replace and build these things ALL DAY long for 400 skins!!! YOWSER!!! Like 84-6.9 Said, dead blow to take apart. But I used a floor jack and the truck bumper to press it back together. Slipped right in easy peasy! I did lube the hell out of it with rebuild grease first. Took me about an hour to take it out, 30 minutes to rebuild and clean, then 30 minutes to reinstall on the truck. Be sure you take the steering shaft off. Remove the drivers side tire. It likes to get hung up on the shock mount. If 4x4 drop the drive shaft. Take your time breathe easy and worm it out. You need to check with a local IH dealer, they carry rebuild kits as well. Mine came from IH and it was like 60 or 70 bucks.
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I have a spare Nice to know its worth something I was going to let it go with truck wen I sell it but now I think I will sell it unless its the same as the one on my97 powerstroke
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
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From: Higginsville, MO
we rebuilt a cooler on a stroke in less than 3 hours.... with engine in truck. take the drivers side tire off and remove that little engine cover thing thats in there gives easier access honestly the hardest part was putting it back in and keeping the gaskets lined up. get 2 guys its easier.... you position the cooler and 1 guy underneath to try and hold the gaskets in place. also go to INTERNATIONAL for the gaskets and rings.... they were considerably cheaper than ford when we bought them about 6 months ago. and ask them for motor assembly grease that is a important part. coat the inside of the caps with it and the rings and the part the rings slide on.... makes it so much easier when sliding it back together. make sure everything goes on straight so the rings dont get cut. if the mechanics at your international are nice they will tell you there tips and tricks too which could be of great use to you.... thats how we figured out to use the motor assembly grease on it.
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Feeling better about this now. we have landmark international here in knoxville, they should have the goodies. We also have a ford medium and heavy truck dealer that is excellent (but high as a kite on prices).
Off to hunt gaskets and o rings! Thanks for the help, much appreciated!!
Off to hunt gaskets and o rings! Thanks for the help, much appreciated!!
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