FTE Electrical Wizards Please Help!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: North Attleboro, MA
FTE Electrical Wizards Please Help!
I've been having an intermittent electrical issue for several months but worse over the last few days with my 2005 Navigator. The #2 fuse in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel blows repeatedly. I know this fuse is for the brake stop lamp switch and the turn signal relay. It is supposed a 20A fuse according to the owners manual. I've been replacing fuses for a while now and usually a fuse will last a few weeks or so (annoying but tolerable). Since Saturday morning I've gone through 4 of them and it is not very safe to drive a vehicle without brake lights or turn signals. I've taken the truck to the dealer and they fiddled around and pointed fingers at a few of the aftermarket items I have installed. I installed them personally and was very cautious to not chafe any wires or to dislodge any connectors. I've thought about placing a 25A fuse in there, but safety concerns have kept me from doing so. I am seriously stumped. I called the dealer back but they are still pointing fingers at the aftermarket stuff and while I do have the extended warranty they of course are looking to charge me and avoid billing the warranty.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I know FTE will pull through for me as they have in the past! Thanks in advance!
Smitty
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I know FTE will pull through for me as they have in the past! Thanks in advance!
Smitty
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Maryville
Check all the lamps on that circuit (brake lights turn signals) make sure they arent getting water in them like alloro said, check bulbs for moisture and corrosion at the contacts. also check the wires and harness connectors, it sound like you have a power to ground issue (ie a power wire is grounding out). also are any of your aftermarket items tied in with the circuit you are having issues with? you could also have problems with your brake light switch, turn signal swith or relays. just some things to check. would help also if you knew under what conditons your fuse pops. if you did a controlled test and got it to pop it would pinpoint your problem.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: location, location
Sounds like you are a fireman, but do you tow a boat as well? If so I'd start there.
Have you used your trailer lately? Problem could be exposed wire on trailer causing fuse to blow.
Even if you don't tow anything, if you have a trailer harness, check the wires going to it. A bare hot wire touching the frame now and then would cause fuses to blow like you are describing.
With the add on's you did it would be hard to believe that you managed to splice into a brake or indicator wire, but crazier things have happened. I assume you tested all your aftermarket stuff when the fuses are blown and they work when the lights don't
Have you used your trailer lately? Problem could be exposed wire on trailer causing fuse to blow.
Even if you don't tow anything, if you have a trailer harness, check the wires going to it. A bare hot wire touching the frame now and then would cause fuses to blow like you are describing.
With the add on's you did it would be hard to believe that you managed to splice into a brake or indicator wire, but crazier things have happened. I assume you tested all your aftermarket stuff when the fuses are blown and they work when the lights don't
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: North Attleboro, MA
78ecf250cs: None of the listed aftermarket items I mentioned are attached to that circuit. The only thing I forgot to mention was my truck has a dealer installed Ford branded remote start, installed prior to me owning the truck. Unfortunately, the fuse pops at random times. Typically, I notice it after I start the truck with the remote start, get in and drive off, the interior lights stay on as the brake stop lamp switch isn't activated to disable the remote start. But I will be checking all the turn signal lamps. I checked one of the rear lamps and it had some darkening in the lamp which I will try replacing and see where that gets me.
I fish: I am a fireman, but rarely if ever tow anything. I will check the wiring harness. And I'm pretty sure that I didn't grab a signal wire. All the aftermarket devices work after the fuse blows too.
Thanks!
Smitty
I fish: I am a fireman, but rarely if ever tow anything. I will check the wiring harness. And I'm pretty sure that I didn't grab a signal wire. All the aftermarket devices work after the fuse blows too.
Thanks!
Smitty
Trending Topics
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Maryville
That remote start could be wired into that circuit because it needs to have a signal from the brake light switch to shut off the engine
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: location, location
If it were me I'd start looking for a pattern.
I'd get one of those fuses that have the built in LED that lights up when the fuse blows, Then just leave the fuse box cover off and take a peek as soon as you started the engine, and again before you shut down. That way you'll be able to start narrowing it down based on what you used or did prior to it going. so for example, if it wasn't blown when you pulled in the driveway, but the next time you start the truck it's blown, you would put your security system ( assuming it flashes your lights when you lock the truck) , or remote start on top of the suspect list
I'd get one of those fuses that have the built in LED that lights up when the fuse blows, Then just leave the fuse box cover off and take a peek as soon as you started the engine, and again before you shut down. That way you'll be able to start narrowing it down based on what you used or did prior to it going. so for example, if it wasn't blown when you pulled in the driveway, but the next time you start the truck it's blown, you would put your security system ( assuming it flashes your lights when you lock the truck) , or remote start on top of the suspect list
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: North Attleboro, MA
Okay, so I just made a breakthrough doing some testing. I was able to recreate the fuse blowing. I replaced the blown #2 fuse with a new 20A fuse. The truck was off during this time. The hazards worked fine flashing for a few minutes. Then while the hazards were still on I stepped on the brake and the fuse popped. I replaced the fuse again and with the hazards off I stepped on the brake and the fuse popped. I am planning on replacing one of the lamps (or both) for the brake lights and see where that gets me. I visually inspected the switch on the brake pedal under the dash and found nothing out of the ordinary. Any suggestions?
Thanks again!
Smitty
Thanks again!
Smitty
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: location, location
could still be anything from a bad hazard switch to moisture and corrosion in your taillights or trailer harness, and anything in between. the good news is this might be enough to convince the boys at the dealership that it has nothing to do with your siren and XM radio, the bad news is it might still be something that isn't covered by your warranty.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,324
Likes: 5,136
From: 0,0,1
The problem could still be the remote start unit. The secondary side of the brake light switch does tie into it. But I'm still suspicious of the third brake light. Since the hazards didn't pop the fuse, one could assume that the wiring and bulbs for the lower brake lights are okay. The only difference when you step on the brake versus using the hazards or turn signals is that power is sent up to the third brake light only when pressing the brake pedal.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: North Attleboro, MA
Alloro: I uninstalled the third brake light and it was completely dry. Electrical connections checked okay as well. Also, there are two separate filaments in the lamps for the brake lights, one for the brake lights and the other for turn signals.
Thanks!
Smitty
Thanks!
Smitty