Wouldn't this many codes mean something bigger is going on. Like maybe a major ground is missing or something. Van runs rough, Idles rough and the 7th injector is very weak on buzz test. put the pedal down and blows white smoke. Just changed the injector O rings, glow plugs, relay, rebuilt turbo, replaced the valve cover gaskets and wiring, Didn't put the pigtails on yet, they seem very good and its alot of work in a van. 167k miles. I loosened all the wire harness from the 42pin to the idm harness to the harness at the fuel filter. They look terrific, clean and wires are soft. Help Me.
Using my Auto Enginuity with ford enhancement I get these codes.

Enhanced Powertrain
P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low Input
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P1690 Wastegate Solenoid Circuit
P1395 Glow Plug Monitor Fault (Bank 1)
P1396 Glow Plug Monitor Fault (Bank 2)
P1397 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid B Circuit Low Input
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit A
P1141 Fuel Restriction Indicator Circuit
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit
P1748 Pressure Control Solenoid A
P1536 Parking Brake Switch Circuit
P1464 A/C Demand Out Of Self Test Range
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0220 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch B Circuit
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P1212 Injector Control Pressure Lower Than Desired (engine crank or run)

 

Clear them out, then check again.

You may have a bad pigtail, but most likely an injector or possibly IDM, but a good reset will get you farther along.

 

I'm with Ken. Probably just a bunch of phantom codes. Clear them and see what comes back. With the ICP codes it wouldn't hurt to check out the wiring at the ICP connector.

 

Alright. I cleared out the codes with my AE.
I really only get the P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
Which happens to be the injector that is very weak when doing the buzz test. I guess I need a new injector.
Hopefully that will make my engine smooth out and quit poofing white smoke up my breather tube. Not to mention the tail pipe.
Thank god its on the drivers side. I wonder if i should take out that AE that's in #8 and put in an AD because it doesn't buzz quite as loud either. Unless there is a difference in AD and AE buzz noises. I wouldn't have a clue.
Its still very sluggish when i give it "gas" while parked and hurles out white smoke when the rpms rise.
On the last note. My Van just died flat out last week in my driveway and I went to ford and put in a gray tps. I went to a auto store here called Rooster, lol. But they can get the black tps for the 95 to 96 powerstroke. Isn't that the "good" one that we all want?
thanks for the resetting the pcm tip. much appreciated.

 

The color of the CPS only matters when it comes from Ford. The aftermarket ones have a VERY poor performance history no matter what color they are. You're better off with a gray one from Ford than a black one from the local parts store.

What do you mean puffing smoke out the breather tube? Is it just smoke or is there pressure behind it? Smoke is fine, pressure is bad.

You could always swap the #4 and #6 injector to make sure the problem followed the injector instead of staying in the same hole before you dumped the money for a new injector. The AE should buzz just as loud as the AD injectors.

 

The Gray CPS one i got is from Ford.
Yep I believe there is pressure behind the puffs of smoke. I would consider the amount of smoke to be medium to alot of smoke myself, like a small locomotive steam train. plus enough to throw the smoke about a foot from the valve cover without alot of pressure behind it. My kid started my van up every day for two months this winter with starting fluid. Yep, Idiot comes to my mind too. I did'nt know this until he told me that "we" need another can.
As much as I don't want too, I think i will change those two injectors around to make sure its not the wiring. Your right, its expensive.

 

You might want to get the rings first! Then the injector.

 

installed new injector at #6, now i have 8 working injectors, still has a rough idle and smokey.
I still get that dam P0278 & 81 Cylinder 6 and 7 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
Everyone says what it is but nobody gives a good explanation on what it means. bad connection? low voltage? fuel pressure? I cant figure out what balance fault really means. Any ideas?

 

Smoking like a locomotive steam train is generally a very bad sign.

Cylinder Contribution Test are values calculated by AE to try and measure if all cylinders are 'contributing' about the same amount of work for each engine cycle. Exactly how is mystery to me but I suppose AE looks at the Cam Position Sensor as a primary source of that info. This is why most CCT tests will fail cyl #8 and sometimes #3 when running the grey recall CPS from Ford. There is something with that sensor version that gives the fault. The International Black CPS will usually allow the engine to pass the CCT test but it's not 100% either. (still the best CPS that I've found so far though...)

Sounds like a compression test is your next step. You may have one or more bad cylinders.

 

Well for now it runs good enough. shaky idle, bit of smoke, smoke goes away after its warmed up and going down the highway. Still idles like its got a big cam. I have to guess bad/broken rings from the 1 can of starting fluid it used this winter.
Its a 2001 14' box van. works and looks terrific except engine. I am a Contractor. I need a Box Van. I have to decide if its worth buying a new engine for 5k ( I will install) or another used box van with 150k+ miles on it for 5k.
So I am going to put a 5k engine in a box van thats only worth 5k? Then have a perfect box van. Hmmm probably
Or trash this van, buy another one for 5K, with at least 150+K miles on it and hope it lasts a long time with my fingers crossed. While having another used engine that could go wrong.
I think my money might be on an engine r and r.
Any educated thoughts?

 

You could get a box van with the truck front instead of the van front. That would make it easier to work on.

 

If the rest of the vehicle is in excellent shape, then it's always less expensive to fix what you have.
Kind of depends on what that other box van has going on with it.
Need to get it checked out thoroughly before making any sort of decisions.

 

I wonder if this isn't a bad center pin on the UVCH? have you done some ohming out? Have you done the UVCH quarters or Ford shims? just a cheap alternative thought at this point, at least until you do the compression check.