I can't seem to get this one solved so i am back for more advise. The truck starts great when cold. This happens only after truck has been up to temp and then turned off for 30minutes and up. It will do this if it is warm enough out that the high idle will not come on. This video was taken 30 minutes after i shut the truck off from a 2 hour drive. If i hold the throttle to 900-1000rpm there is no smoke. All return lines are new. All glow plugs are new(motocraft's). Fuel is new in march. The IP i think is original and has 170,000 on it so that is where i am leaning unless you guys have other suggestions. Also it is 65 degrees and at 5000ft if that helps

YouTube - ‪1994 Turbo IDI rough idle‬‏

 

Anyone have any Ideas

 

Ill head out to get my phone and watch the vid but your description sounds to be fuel related and strongly related to the IP. I will say that when i was messing around with my timing back on my old pump, i could make my life miserable with regards to the timing and startability. Has this vehicle been timed dynamically? I had to crank and crank to get going when it was hot but if i retarded the timing just a bit, it would start easier. I was way too far advanced and on a worn pump it created problems. The truck would shake terribly and it made for embarrasing moments. I was in front of the empress hotel in victoria bc, you know...one of the nicest with valet service? I would never let a valet that just parked a lamborghini park my truck, i just dont trust them hahaha but yeah when i went to leave, it wouldnt start lol. EVERYONE had to stop and stare and some asian tourists seemed to deem it photo worthy. I threatedned to leave my truck at the scrap yard and boom, she started right up! lol. That was the last straw and a few weeks later i had a new IP.

 

This happens to me all the time. I bet after this happens, if you drive it for a few minutes then idle its gone again? It seems like the coolant is still too hot at the switch to go into cold idle advance, but the cylinders are cold enough to smoke. Only happens this time of year where it isn't so cold that the advance always goes on but cold enough that the engine cools relatively quickly.

I did new injectors, new IP, dynamic timing with the pulse adaptor, new GPs, new fuel, new fuel filter, new return lines, new turbo kit and new exhaust all at the same time, and it did that both before and after. I've concluded its just a side-effect of the advance circuit sensor and the actual cyclinder temperature being somewhat independent of each other.

My solution was to wire a dash switch that enables the cold idle advance (without enabling cold timing advance) for those situations. I have since found it handy for when I have a high electrical load (inverters, VHF, satellite internet, stereo, lights etc...) enabled while idling. I can send you my diagram of what I did if you want.

PS. I meant to get back to you on your balance questions, but my truck started shaking too, and I've been trying to solve the problem on my side as well. I will let you know if I figure anything out.

 

Mine hasnt done it since and we on Vancouver Island hover in those odd temps all the time. Odd either way, the fast idle is a great idea, ill take that drawing if you have it or post it up here.

 

Update. Last night i did the Diesel kleen trick of filling the filter full letting it run for a minute and the sitting over night. started easier then ever and smoked less. However after my 45 minute lunch it did the same shaking and smoking. it always starts great, just smokes and shakes. I hope it is the odd temp outside.

Northern. I would love a copy of that diagram as well. Also as far as the flywheel goes i have not had time to switch mine out, i am almost positive that is the problem now since everything else under there is new

 

Sounds like air intrusion?

Just curious, do our truck pumps suck fuel on their own or do they need supply under pressure?

I have been learning allot about these idi engines with my old vw diesel and it its allot easier to deal with on that car but one of the first things I would do is put in and out lines in a bucket of fuel with filter on inlet to bypass as much of the possible crap to deal with on the truck.

I have clear lines on my jetta now so I can see what is up with the bubbles, even better would be gauge on the fuel side to see if restrictions are developing before they leave you on the side of the road.

I also have started using some nasty fuel rated clear lines from mccaster which are thicker walled and nicer quality than the cheap lawnmover stuff on ebay. I have had lines on my jetta since the beginning that have a wall thick enough to retain its shape and isn't hard after taking it off for maintenence. I have this on the return lines as well, because I really don't like that cloth stuff.

 

i go with IP on this one. If your injectors are new, but not your IP....i doubt your IP can keep up with the injectors demand for higher pressure to pop them. Jayme I would go with a new IP. Whats the smoke smell like. If its fuel then my money is on IP.

 

damac, as far as fuel pressure i have the proper amount of fuel out of the valve at the top of the fuel filter. As far as suck/pump fuel there is a lift pump that bolts to the block, lifts fuel to the filter and then into the injection pump which pressurizes it for the injectors.

 

Aune, this truck is new to me at the first of the year and i have no idea what is new but i am guessing nothing

PS sorry i have not go around to the flywheel yet have you found piping for your turbo

 

This is getting worse and worse but don't have the cash for a new ip and injectors right now. Is there a way to test the current ip, and also how much does it cost to have a shop do the timing.

 

The IP and injectors...I can help you with that. The 86 has a brand new IP on it and new injectors. If your needing some, I will sell you all of it for cheap. Yes I found the turbo piping. To test how much pressure your IP is putting out you can hook a gauge to the schrader valve(tire looking valve). I dont quite remember what the specs were but like I said.

If you wanna do a 'redneck' test. being from montana like me this should fit you: Start the engine. Get it to operating temperature to where it starts shaking and smoking. Shut it off. Then take cold water, pour it on the IP and then start it back up. If the shaking and smoking quits you might have a few pinholes in the diaphram of the IP. If this is the case then your SOL on the IP cause its bad. The pinholes are small at startup, then they get bigger as the engine gets hotter. This is my check for it.

 

Aune, I thought it was bad to dumb ice cold water on anything hot because i could crack it. I will send you a pm on the ip and injectors. Are you sure they are the same from a N/A to a factory turbo

 

A N/A Will work on a turbo motor. Dont make the water ice cold...make it cool, like you would have halfway cool water coming out of your sink at first then it gets really cold, you want it about that cool. THat will be enough to tell if there is pinholes in the IP.

EDIT: The 86 has a ATS 088 turbo on it so it has the Turbo IP XD.