Rear axle seals
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 1
From: VA
Rear axle seals
I have a 2000 Expedition 4x4 XLT. My rear axle seals started leaking at about 44K miles. Is this normal? Are these seals so poorly designed and made that they only last a couple of years? I have had other cars where similar seals last seemly a lifetime. Is there anything I should know about having these replaced? Is this a repair that should be done at the dealer? Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Rear axle seals
I've seen them leak at low mileage too but it isnt all that common. Check the diff vent to make sure it isnt plugged which could build up pressure and cause the seals to leak.
Any good shop should be able to handle this easily.
Or you might want to do it yourself.
To change the seals you have to remove the axles by removing the rear diff cover and then the C-clips on the end of the axles. You have to remove the brake calipers and rotors, then slide the axles out. The seal is right there and you can pry it out with a bar or with the axle. Grease the seal surface where the axle rides and gently tap the new seal in making sure you have it in square and with the spring to the inside. Put everything back together. Clean up the housing spotlessly clean where the cover goes on, apply a thin bead of silicone to the cover and install it. To put the new gear oil in, with friction modifier if you have limited slip, pull the check plug out of the front of the diff and pump the oil in there. Or do like I usually do and pull the ABS speed sensor out of the top of the diff and fill the oil through there.
Any good shop should be able to handle this easily.
Or you might want to do it yourself.
To change the seals you have to remove the axles by removing the rear diff cover and then the C-clips on the end of the axles. You have to remove the brake calipers and rotors, then slide the axles out. The seal is right there and you can pry it out with a bar or with the axle. Grease the seal surface where the axle rides and gently tap the new seal in making sure you have it in square and with the spring to the inside. Put everything back together. Clean up the housing spotlessly clean where the cover goes on, apply a thin bead of silicone to the cover and install it. To put the new gear oil in, with friction modifier if you have limited slip, pull the check plug out of the front of the diff and pump the oil in there. Or do like I usually do and pull the ABS speed sensor out of the top of the diff and fill the oil through there.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 1
From: VA
Rear axle seals
The Ford dealer told me they use a certain synthetic oil. What do you recommend? Is there anything special about this oil, or is it a standard type of synthetic gear oil? How long would you anticipate it would take a weekend mechanic (who has never done this job) to do it? I am good with tools and have installed seals like this, but have never done this job. What materials do I need besides two shaft seals, oil, and sealer? Are there any special or nonstandard tools required? Also, I do not have a lift. I suppose jackstands will be required? The differential cover does not use a gasket? Or are you suggesting that silicone sealer is better or sufficient? Will this type of sealer be sufficient against the type of oil used? I do have the Ford CD, and hopefully it has some information on this. Also, what is the likelihood that the differential is not vented properly? Thanks. Almost forgot, is there anything special about removing the parking brake mechanism?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Rear axle seals
The oil that Ford specifies is 75W140 synthetic oil but I've seen people use normal gear oil and it doesn't seem to be a problem. When in doubt use what they call for though.
I would guess it would take you ummm maybe 4 hours.
Yes you need jackstand any time you work under a vehicle with the wheels off
I dont think you'll need anything other than a normal set of tools. The bolts are all metric so make sure you have a good selection of them.
The cover doesn't use a gasket....only silicone. Have some brake cleaner on hand to clean the surfaces so the silicone will stick.
Take a good look at the CD before you start in case I missed anything.
The vent probably isnt plugged but just try blowing in the hose and make sure.
You dont have to do anything with the park brakes at all. The rotor slides off over them.
I would guess it would take you ummm maybe 4 hours.
Yes you need jackstand any time you work under a vehicle with the wheels off
I dont think you'll need anything other than a normal set of tools. The bolts are all metric so make sure you have a good selection of them.
The cover doesn't use a gasket....only silicone. Have some brake cleaner on hand to clean the surfaces so the silicone will stick.
Take a good look at the CD before you start in case I missed anything.
The vent probably isnt plugged but just try blowing in the hose and make sure.
You dont have to do anything with the park brakes at all. The rotor slides off over them.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 41
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Rear axle seals
I have a 2000XP EB 2x4. I also had my truck in for the ABS sensor and they local ford dealership told me the axel seal was leaking. Of course i had to pay for the synthtic oil which used 4. Anyway my question is does the dealership need to adjust something in the rear axel? they mentioned something to me but it wasnt clear? any info?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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Rear axle seals
Originally posted by jrangel
I have a 2000XP EB 2x4. I also had my truck in for the ABS sensor and they local ford dealership told me the axel seal was leaking. Of course i had to pay for the synthtic oil which used 4. Anyway my question is does the dealership need to adjust something in the rear axel? they mentioned something to me but it wasnt clear? any info?
I have a 2000XP EB 2x4. I also had my truck in for the ABS sensor and they local ford dealership told me the axel seal was leaking. Of course i had to pay for the synthtic oil which used 4. Anyway my question is does the dealership need to adjust something in the rear axel? they mentioned something to me but it wasnt clear? any info?
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Rear axle seals
just got the truck back.......they replaced the real axle seal and used 4 units of synth. oil. Also replaced ABS sensor and my grand total was 422.00...........AFI warranty covered 200.00 of that.......
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: All over Texas
Rear axle seals
Originally posted by jrangel
just got the truck back.......they replaced the real axle seal and used 4 units of synth. oil. Also replaced ABS sensor and my grand total was 422.00...........AFI warranty covered 200.00 of that.......
just got the truck back.......they replaced the real axle seal and used 4 units of synth. oil. Also replaced ABS sensor and my grand total was 422.00...........AFI warranty covered 200.00 of that.......
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 338
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From: Tucson
Rear axle seals
Wow 422. Labor sucks. As far as the gear oil the 28 bucks for wants a quart is crazy. I used the 85/140 blend and it was like 4.99 a quart. ANyone know who carries redline in 80w 140, I mean actually stocks it. Alot of places carry reline but only in 80w 90. I wonder why ford went so think on the oil. Extreme pressure I guess. Also someone mentioned that both seals failed. I would have to assume wither it was full of water for a boat or that the vent was clogged for both to fail that is rare.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
Rear axle seals
What a pain 
,I also replaced the bearing cause it`s just wise and for the 48.00 for a rear bear is cheaper than me getting under that thing ,I know this is an old post but you need to drop the torque bar
or what ever that thing is and drop the sway bar casue you cannot open the pumpkin 
,and the bolts for the cover are SAE and inside are SAE while some of the susspension mounts are metric 
,also remembert to re-lock tite the little bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears ( use RED ) othe wise you might get some more creeper time unwanted
,I also replaced the bearing cause it`s just wise and for the 48.00 for a rear bear is cheaper than me getting under that thing ,I know this is an old post but you need to drop the torque bar or what ever that thing is and drop the sway bar casue you cannot open the pumpkin ,and the bolts for the cover are SAE and inside are SAE while some of the susspension mounts are metric ,also remembert to re-lock tite the little bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears ( use RED ) othe wise you might get some more creeper time unwanted
I`am the new guy