I really need some help with my brake repair. I have been working on front brake removal for 4 days now and I haven't been able to close my garage because my truck is halfway in. I had another post with a few questions, but I didn't get any responses.

My book calls for a bearing nut, then a special key, then an outer locknut. When I removed the hub there wasn't an outer locknut. Was this missing or never needed?
Also, when I turn the wheel after replacing the hub, I hear a sound from the inner bearing seal. Is this normal? Should I have lubed this? Will this just go away?
1996 F250 5.8 4X4 manual hubs
This is taking way too long and its getting very difficult for me to complete without this info. Thank you in advance.

 

If you have manual Hubs there should be two lock nuts:


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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-replace.html

Didn't see your response in your first thread, got pushed off the first page. Bumping it after couple hours with no new input would have been the better idea.

Anyway does your wheel bearing assembly look like the picture above? If not describe as best you can what your wheel bearing nut looks like or better yet post a picture.

If not like the one above does it look like the one pictured here?>Need spindle nut socket for automatic hubs - The Ranger Station Forums

I put a light coat of grease on the seal however without it you shouldn't hear anything rub or drag, the seal just wouldn't make enough noise you could hear.

Before you drive that you might better have someone check your work a minute just to be on the safe side.

We can do it here if you could post some detailed pictures if you have no one around handy that knows what you're working on. Describe in detail exactly what you did, what order you did it in etc etc and we'd at least be able to point out anything obviously wrong that might even be an unsafe condition for ya.

Once we know for sure what your working on, which type hub assembly it'll help us help you, and if you don't get a reply after say an hour or so "bump" your post back to the top of the first page so its noticed by people viewing at the time. Gotta admit I rarely if ever leave the first page not sure about anyone else?

 

The ranger station picture is exactly what I have. I had to go to Napa to buy a socket for that nut. The picture above is NOT what I have.
I have a Dana 50 with manual hubs. I had taken off the hub (six screws), 2 snap rings, and then there was a wierd keeper that slid in a groove. After that was the lock nut pictured, then the outer bearing, hub, inner bearing and seal.
I really appreciate the help. I'm 43 and I use to work on my vehicles all the time. At the ripe old age of 29 I was medically discharged from the Navy and have been struggling to do this stuff. I hate paying someone to do the things I use to be able to do easily, plus I can't afford these labor rates. Anyway, I thank everyone for their help.

 

Ok looking like someone changed to manual lockouts but did not change the wheel bearing nuts. Manuals installed must have cleared that type wheel bearing nut so it wasn't changed over.
You'd adjust the wheel bearing preload same way regardless of retention method used.

Again yes you should have put a light coat of grease on the hub seal, it shouldn't make noise.
Did you make sure you fully and evenly installed the seals, new or reuse of existing?

If deformed when unevenly driven in that might explain the sound you hear?

This "sound" what does it sound like, a rub a squeak? more of a metal on metal sound? is it constant or rhythmic as in only makes the sound at one point in each full revolution?
Both sides or just one? If both sides exact same sound?

Do you hear the sound when the hub/rotor installed but nothing else is put back on yet IE:caliper/pads? lockouts?

Pull the hub off again a minute greasing those seals lightly, see if the sound you hear is gone after doing so. Be best if you lightly greased them anyway, dry will be kinda hard on them and the spindle where they ride.

 

Do I need to get the correct lock nuts for manual hubs? Or should I change back to auto hubs? Everything works fine, but I don't want a problem when I need my 4X4.

The sound from my seal sounds like rubber rubbing the spindle. Also, should the seal be flush with the hub or should I tap it as far in as it would go? Mine is flush. The seal I put in is new. It was different than the one I took out. The one I took out had a solid side and the other side (bearing side) was hollowed out, so the seal was shaped like this [ . The new seal is solid on both sides.

Do you think it would be ok to loosen the nut, slide the hub out a little and spray some silicone lube on the spindle? Will this help the seal noise or should I just use a little grease? Maybe I should have put some grease on the spindle before assembly.

Thanks again for all the help. Life is difficult when your disabled and needing others is something I'm still not use to. I use to be the one who did everything and help everybody.

 

If the lockout clears the nuts it has now without issue I see no reason to change them.

Seals should be flush yes.

While a shot or two of silicone spray lube might work fine I think I'd pull the hub a minute gets some grease on them seals.

Silicone lube is fairly tough but might not be quite up to the task long enough. You wouldn't want the seals wearing into the spindles.

 

I still only have 1 locknut. I thought 2 were required. If I only need the one that is there, then I won't change anything. Why does manual hubs have 2 but auto hubs have only one? I really don't want to take this apart again in a couple of months.
Is there a problem with auto hubs? Should I switch back to them?

 

I still only have 1 locknut. I thought 2 were required.

Not with the type you have, the little wedge acts as the second locking nut.

Why does manual hubs have 2 but auto hubs have only one?

Just a matter of space in the hub taken up for each type/manufacture. Your brand obviously clears with that retainer or you would have surely found damage, so no need to worry about it.

The manuals are better/tougher then the autos, that and when they are locked there are locked. Autos tend to lock unlock lock again with every direction change, I can hear them doing so in my 95. Not the best condition say if stuck in mud or snow/ice needing to rock it some to get out of a sticky spot. Little bit to much skinny pedal at the wrong moment could prove rather detrimental to one or both lockouts catch it when lockout isn't unlocked anymore but isn't fully locked yet either.

 

Another problem....I went to put the manual hub back in and 3 washers fell off, one thin, one splined and one thick. I don't know what order they were in. I went to look at the other side and there wasn't any. I'm begining to think I should take her out back and put a couple bullets in her. She'll be out of her and my misery.

All the research I've done says that changing from auto to manual hubs needs to change the locknuts for the bearings as well. Maybe I'll head to the dealer tomorrow and see what I can get. Any help? Anyone?