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7.3IDI Options?

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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #1  
1949 F6's Avatar
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From: Denver
7.3IDI Options?

I have an old truck (see username) that I would like to eventually put a diesel in. I would like to keep the simplicity of the truck intact so I am assuming that an IDI would be my best bet not being computer controlled and all. My first question is, would this engine be very difficult to build myself with aftermarket upgrades like a turbo and intercooler? Second, what kind of manual transmission options do I have with that block? Thanks for the input!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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Well of course you can build the heck out of one from scratch. The trans options are ZF5 and i think a T19 4sp. I think a 6.9 block would be better in the long run though. Thicker cylinder walls works better! Mill the pistons, studs etc makes a beast. Dave S. built a monster engine and it pushes some nice boost numbers, double mine by far. If you are looking for massive power and boost, you might want to consider a different engine. So either way, yes you can build it, boost it and whatever else you want. Oh the first gen stroke intercoolers work well and fit but i have seen 6.0 intercoolers go in as well.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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Thanks for the input, longevity is more important to me than power so I'll start looking into a 5.9l instead. Just out of curiosity, what "different engine" do you think would give better performance?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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I think you can build a cummins a lot cheaper and with more power, if you're not set on keeping a ford powertrain.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by bashby
I think you can build a cummins a lot cheaper and with more power, if you're not set on keeping a ford powertrain.
the only way to buy a ford diesel is with a 6.7l psd anyway.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
aw smartass hahaha. 49F6 did you mean 6.9 or 5.9? Yes a cummins would run more power like i said but if you wanted to maintain international powertrain....lol....then i woul dbelieve the mechanical 6.9 to be a good choice for a custom build. the block casting is important so get the newer "early 87" block right before they switched to the bored out 6.9 or what we have, the mighty 7.3 lol. true longevity though will be measured by what you do to it. How much power are you running, what mods, what internal parts etc etc. Obviously dont go with stock pistons, get some hard annodized or similar, upgraded inconel valves and the sort. Make it bullet proof and it will be a really long lasting beast that will get you down the road for a long time. go half *** on the internals and you will have just that.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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Whoops your right I meant 6.9! I found a block minus manifolds and cylinder heads locally for $300. The casting # is 803440, would this be a good year block?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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As long as it is not the first 2 years it should be fine, the early ones crack around the block heater core hole.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
looks like you are good to go with a later model block but here is the info from Dave S.

"6.9 blocks up to serial #u2u17900 had a thinner casting around the block heater. It is very common for these blocks to crack.


6.9L Old Style Block

Block Casting Number:


On left side of block (beneath oil cooler) 1805440C1
Note: Some 440 blocks are truly new style and must be visually inspected by raised donut around the block heater, frost plug (right rear). Old style below serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *No counter bored area for block heater
*No defined area on side of block for dip stick
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 3/8" (.375")
Head Bolts: *7/16, 12 point socket is used to torque head bolts
*Block tapped with 7/16-14 for head bolts

6.9L New Style Block

Block Casting Number: 1807996C1 Note: Some new style blocks have casting
number 440. Above serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *Has counterbored area for block heater
*Very defined relief area cast in side of block for dip stick tube.
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 15/32" (.470")
*Latest style (not all new style 6.9) has ribs around head bolts, rear two on left side go from head gasket surface to pan rail - same as 7.3
Head Bolts: *Same as old style 6.9"
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Ok so it is a later block. Is $300 a good price?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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I'd be looking for a complete engine, better yet a donor vehicle with a zf5 trans. all the little parts are going to be expensive to piece together.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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From: Kville, ohio
you might look for an older S series international that ran the 7.3. you could run the eaton 5 speed out of that
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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If you search the "Large Truck" forum on this website you will find a guy named "Strumlute" who has put a 7.3 IDI with a ZF5 into a 1960 F600 and a guy named "rustyrelic" who has put a Cummins 5.9 and 6 speed out of a 1995 F700 into a 1956 F600 firetruck.
I have a 1958 F600 and a 1989 F-Superduty which will eventually donate it's 7.3 and ZF5 to the F600.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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Bringing this thread up from the grave! I found a 94 IDI 7.3l locally for about 1000 bucks, the owner sayes its got eighty thousand miles on it but claims its not turbocharged. This cant be correct right? I am thinking I am going to jump on it if it checks out.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
yes that can be correct.
at no time in the history of the IDI was there ever a "turbo only" year.

the factory turbo was always an "option" on the IDI.
this option was only for the '93 year and the first half of '94 (the other half we'll say was the '94 PSD.those engines all came with a turbo,as well as all the diesels after.)
 
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