Hey guys. I've been scouring for hours trying to find some relevant information on troubleshooting blower motor issues and haven't had much luck. Obviously, this isnt the most common issue. Let me go into some more details and see if you guys could possibly help me out.


My mother's 2000 X started having intermittent issues about 2 months ago with the front blower motor. I'm not sure the problem is actually in the blower motor, but I'm hoping to solve it soon enough. The problem is the blower motor works fine for a day or two and then will randomly just stop working for several days to a week. Then, randomly...... when hitting a bump or going down the road it will kick back on.

Its starting to get really hot here in GA and its killer to not have a working AC. So, I have got to figure out whats wrong with it and replace it ASAP.

From what I have found on here, the blower resistor can go out commonly in fords and you start losing speeds until you just have one. When the fan is working, all speeds work perfectly. Definitely not my issue from what I can tell.

I have done some electrical troubleshooting twice in the past week. Once when the AC was functioning and once when it was not.

Basic tests:

The switches in the front work fine. Switching from AC to different fan positions alter nothing when the AC is not working within the blower motor. I can clearly hear the vacuum system changing the air mix and the REAR air works fine when the front is switched on. That portion works perfect with and without the blower motor working.

When the blower is not working, I do not have any sort of power at the AIR SPEED switch. (I pulled the radio and tested behind it). When AC works, I have between 6-9V on all wires into the speed switch. (This is the only discrepancy I have found and believe this is where I am headed.)

I have tested all fuses and replaced the smaller ones. Ive swapped the 40amp fuses in the engine compartment around (for blower motor and AC) and experience no change. I've pulled the relay's for the blower motor and they 'click' when replacing indicating the relay is still working fine, although I havent tested to see if there is 12V on either side of the relay due to its position.

I have tested power at the blower motor. The 2 wire power input plug has 12v on one wire and GND on the other wire. From what little I have found, that seems correct.

Where do I go from here and what do I test? It seems my problem can be traced to the lack of power at the speed selector switch. But, I have no idea where to go or what to troubleshoot from here. I dont have any sort of manual or troubleshooting guide for it.

I'm pretty good with troubleshooting. Great with a Voltmeter.


Anyone have any advice on where to go from here or what to do? (aside from running to the stealership... $500 to change a PCV valve...)

2000 Ford Excursion V10 4wd ... Manual A/C controls. w/ separate rear controls

 

Had the same issue last fall (concerned about the opposite with winter setting in) Change the resistor, if no luck change the blower motor, not too too expensive and an easy fix. Mine ended up being the motor located in the engine compartment near the passenger side firewall. Apparently the bottom portion of the seal rotted out from water and started shorting out. Worked for me no problems since. Good luck

 

thanks for the advice. I'm going to replace the motor today and see if that does the trick. I did a bit more testing and the resistor tests out fine from what I can tell.

The intermittent part seems like brushes in the motor are shorting it out and a bump puts it back in action for a while.

 

Replaced the motor and that did the trick. Its been working great all day today and after looking at the old one I'm sure it was the issue. The old one ruined a perfectly good pair of pants with the amount of nastiness that came off of it.

Replacing it was very easy. Just needed to move one small component out of the way with a 10mm wrench (maybe cruise control?) and then used a 8mm socket to pull the 3 screws holding it out.

Total time to replace it: 30 minutes (atleast 10 was spent finding a stool to work in the engine bay).

Cost: $40 from Advance Auto Parts for a new blower motor


Hope this helps someone out in the Future!

 

Incredible timing! I just happened to visit the forums today because my 2000 X was beginning to have weird things happening with the AC blower.

I would be driving on Max AC full cold and then it would just shift from coming out of the front air vents to seemingly the window defrost area, certainly not needed in June.

I really appreciate the points! Next weekend I am changing the AC blower BEFORE it completely goes out. (Unless someone tells me that it is normal for it to act this way.)

Stay cool...

 

Well as it turns out I had a bad Evaporator Orifice Valve. The fan motor was fine.

 

So I'm trying to help my mom with a 2000 also! I replaced the resistor and blower and I'm thinking its a clogged up evaporator now. Where is the evaporator orifice valve?

 

Got a 2003 with same prob as OP. No front AC blower and rear works fine. Looks like a new blower is in the works for me.

 

I replaced my resistor and that didn't fix my intermittent blower issues.
Do you have specs on how to replace the Blower Motor (2008 F250)?

 

I have Ford Excursion 2000 7.3 diesel.

Problem with front blower.

I have change resistor and relay to blower, then rear blower works and when I connect power on diesel webasto, then front blower is working, and switch is also changing the speed.

When webasto is off, front blower does not working, but rear blower working okay.

Do any have a solution to check/fix the problem.

Best Regards

Heikki

 

Thanks boys A/C blower was working intermittently went right for the blower motor exchange ($39 w/lifetime guarantee from Autozone) Back to blowing 62 degrees on a 105 degree day in Austin, Texas. Didnt need to fuddle with the resistor.
Cheers

 

Thanks guys, my AC blower just started messing up. Just purchased a blower motor and will install this weekend.

 

I think the blowers in these trucks are junk this is my second EX and both needed motors.

 

DC electric motors, like the blower and the starter are like a roulette wheel. Only a small section of the rotor (Armature) will go bad. If you end up landing on the dead one the last time it turned off, it won't run again. Sometimes a good bump will get it to turn to a good section so that it'll start.