98' Ranger 3.0 a/c wasent working so I recharged it only to find out the accumulator/drier has a pin hole in it. I ordered a new one from rockauto. Is there any special tools or way to change it?

 

Legally you'll need A/C certification and a refigerant evac machine, but hey... ya gotta do whatcha gotta do.

Otherwise, unbolt bolt the unit, vent the lines and re-install the lines on the new unit. Vacuum the system for at least 30 minutes and charge. Don't forget to add some PAG oil as well.

Josh

 

What do you mean vent the lines? I'm going to put it on Saturday and just want to know what to expect. I just found out today I need to vacuum the system.....I know nothing about a/c's

 

Well, basically unhook the a/c lines to the accumulator and let the refigerant illegally vent or escape to atmosphere.

Running a vacuum on the system pulls all the moisture out and also allows a good indication of the integrity of the entire a/c system.

You'll need a vacuum pump with the R134 adapter, plus a set of manifold guages to see what high and low side is doing.

You don't have a buddy familiar with auto a/c systems to help out? HVAC guys can help as well.

Josh

 

You will need a set of "spring lock" release tools to even remove the accumulator. They move the garter spring out of the way to allow the fittings that snap together to come apart. A "good thing" to have is some Nylog to put on the snap fittings when you go to put it back together. If you don't get that, at least oil all the snap fittings O-rings with the oil in the system. OEM would be PAG after market would mostly be Ester.
You should flush out he evaporator, condenser, all lines that don't have a muffler or tank, and the compressor. Some recommend using the new oil as a flush for the compressor. Find the total lube quantity for a clean system, and put an ounce each into the different parts, and the remainder into the compressor. Hook it up, pull a vacuum, add the refrigerant.
You likely have lost a bunch of oil already if the accumulator had a pinhole that was near the bottom as a bunch of oil accumulates there, and mixes with the refrigerant, and is drawn into the compressor to lubricate it. Hopefully the low oil has not had time to damage the compressor.
If you don't want to throw a lot of money away, you might just be better off trying to work with a local A/C shop as you need the spring lock tool, a manifold gauge set, a scale to weigh the refrigerant, a vacuum pump, and refrigerant.
If you really are not into HVAC, it might be quicker and cheaper to just 'help' the shop you choose to do the final vacuum and refrigerant injection. I was able to recover and store the R12 in a system when I worked with a shop. They pulled the old refrigerant out, I went home and did my dashboard drop, hose & accumulator replace, and then went back and had them pull a vacuum and re-install the R12.
tom

 

Just an FYI R12 Ester oil and R134 PAG oil are NOT compatible.

Josh

 

Thanks for the replys... I so far have rounded up the snap ring tool and a vaccum pump. I found I guy at work that use to do a/c's The hole is near the top of the accumulator. It rusted under the rubber blanket that covers it. When I charged it the pump ran and I started to get cool air before it leaked out. It's been 95 here and I need air.

 

The guy from work just brought me the vacuum pump but all he has is the R12 hook ups where can I buy the 134 hoses?

 

Napa has adapters, and I noticed last week my Walmart had a package of adapters as well for about $12.

Josh

 

Josh,

The oil used with R12 was mineral oil, not Ester. It is not miscible with R134a. The mineral oil left in a former R12 system converted to R134a will migrate to the low spots, gravity wise, in the system and sit there much like the oil and vinegar separate in the salad dressing of the same name.

PAG and Ester are both compatible with R134a.

PAG absorbs moisture like brake fluid, so is harder for the after market to install properly.
It is used in a lot of factory installed systems. Tests on unopened oil containers indicated that it had absorbed some moisture even before the packages were opened.

Ester is much less hygroscopic, and is easier to install without contamination of the system.
tom

 

One other thing... how do I add oil to the system? Do I pour it onto the accumulator before I put it on?

 

Unless you have access to an injector, you can pour it into the individual component pieces. In the case of an accumulator, you would try to drain out as much as you can, measure that as the replacement value, and add a bit to make up for that which stayed behind on the walls of the accumulator.
tom

 

Ok sounds easy enough. I'm going to put the new accumulator on tomorrow and let you know how I do. Thanks

 

You can buy pressurized cans of PAG oil to inject before or after the charging process.

Josh

 

I just got back from advance auto. I bought some PAG oil and I had to buy a whole gauge kit! I couldn't find the coupler I needed. Walmart and the auto parts stores only had the couplers for R12 to 134. Well at least I have everything I need now.