Jeez you know all the scoop. I was a bit disappointed with that last album "Reinventing the Steel" had a few good tracks but nothing awesome. Maybe I should keep up more! hahaha. Good to hear that something will still come from them.

Anyway, good luck with your truck and keep us posted.

 

FLOMASTER MAKES A 16.5" Y PIPE WITH A 2.5" COLLECTOR PIPES AND 3" CAT END PIPE. I THINK THAT THE 3" WILL FIT THE STOCK CAT PIPE?(NOT SURE) SELLS FOR ABOUT 40$ #Y250300A. THAT WOULD BE THE HARDEST PART OF AN EXHAUST FAB. HOW ABOUT THIS... LT HEADERS TO CUSTOM 2.5" COLLECTORS TO Y PIPE TO STOCK CAT TO 2.75"INLET, 2.5" OUTLET SPLIT EXHAUST... ELECTRIC FAN, K&N FIPK, MSD6AL, EDELBROCK INTAKE AND CAM POWER PACKAGE, GASKET MATCH THE 351 HEADS(DOES A GOOD GASKET MATCHING REALLY COST 100$).....

 

I'd ditch that stock cat for a new 3" in and out high flow one. Just run 2.5" y-pipe to 3" collector to 3" cat to 3" inlet muffler and go dual 2.5" out. Anything over 100K I'd replace for sure.

Only thing to look for about that cam is make sure it is a flat tappet cam and computer friendly. Are you Speed Density or Mass Air Flow? If MAF make sure the cam is cut on a 114LSA. SD WILL require a chip to be burned, no big deal.

I wouldn't spend any money at all on the stock cylinder heads (E7TE), they are junk. Now you could find a set of rebuilt vintage <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>heads (D0OE or C8OE Castings I believe) they have larger 1.84/1.54 valves like the GT-40 irons. 5.0 GT-40 irons just need to be drilled to a 1/2" head stud/washer. Look at swap meets, on ebay, or with local speed shops. You can also get a set of Crane 1.7:1 roller rockers from a 1993-1995 Mustang Cobra for about $100 used. EXAMPLES....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6770

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33617

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33616

Mild port work of gasket matching isn't really labor intensive. All that happens is that the ports are aligned to promote air velocity. Usually the EGR bump is ground out which is the biggest restriction. Typically about 1" into the chamber and just cleaned up a bit. Try to match up the intake ports of the head and intake and match up the exhaust.

Setup sounds pretty good otherwise for an easy 300 flywheel hp.

 

Ford also makes a good aftermarket intake that will fit a 351w. They make the gt40 intake. They make two different versions, one for the 5.0L and one for the 5.8L. Was stock on the lightning f150. I would also recommend going to aftermarket heads, but if you would rather stay with Ford heads use the GT40 or GT40P heads. The "P" heads flow better than the regular GT40s, but they may require special headers and they would have to be drilled for 1/2" studs.

For gears, you are probably running 3.08s or 3.55s. Swap those to 4.10s and you will get a huge increase in power. Gas milage will go down and you will have higher RPMs on the highway. Depending on if you have 4x4 or 2x4 it may cost between $500-$1000. 2wd being cheaper. Unless you can swap them yourself, in that case you would be looking at about $200 per axle.

I used the stock Ford heads and had them gasket matched and the exhaust bumps ground off. Knowing what I know now, I would have put in GT40"p" or aftermarket heads instead of spending the money on having the stock heads redone. In my opinion not worth the money to have stock <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>heads redone.

 

So you mean to tell me that flowmaster makes an aftermarket bolt on h-pipe that will work with long tube headers and if so is it something I can do in my driveway? The truck is a 4x4 and you mean to tell me that a full set of gears is gonna cost me $1000 with labor, man I miss the 5.0 mustang aftermarket! Last ?, will aftermarket 5.0 mustang heads like afr, <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">Holley</a>, or trick flow work on this engine and if so how much work is involved?

 

P heads are better but have to run P specific shorty headers only, that sucks. That is why I recommend vintage heads or the GT-40 irons. BBK LTs will work but BBKs only go for T5's. You are SOL there.

The FMS <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>intake is a GT-40 style, they cost about the same as the Edelbrock truck EFI one but you'd also have to buy the correct throttle linkage to use the GT-40 FMS intake. Save headache and go with the Edelbrock intake.

In a 4x4 you have to swap front and rear diff gears! It is crappy but if you don't severe driveline damage will occur b/c one drive shaft will spin much faster than the other. Gears are about $200+$200 to install + parts per axls. I'd also rebuild the factory limited slip while in there too. If you have 3.55:1's they are okay if you hop up your motor nicely.

I still have 3.55:1's in my F-150 (I have the 4.10:1's in the closet as well as some other parts...) and it isn't that bad. Even with just a full exhaust, air intake, timing bump, and fuel pressure drop your truck will run way better. Before I had to have the thing darn near floored to get moving when the A/C is on, now it isn't nearly as noticable.

No, Flowmaster (as does Mangaflow) makes a Y-pipe collector. I have one of those and a few mandrel bent 2.5" pipes ready for when I make the leap to Long Tubes. Those are the hardest to fab up.

Oh yeah, if you want to spend the extra cash go with a set of AFR-185's for a 351W. They have a nice high velocity runners, makes tons of power, and come CNC ported! The best heads IMO you can buy for the money out of the box. Just make sure you get the 1/2" studs or bolts for the <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>as the <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">302 </a>is a 7/16".

Swirk...good call on the stock heads, they are worthless.

 

Hit Man, are you running AFR heads? Just wondering what kind of power you are getting out of them. Man, I would kill to have enough extra cash to afford those. Oh well, I am not selling the dirtbike to build the truck.

Have you put your truck on a dyno? Any idea of what HP you are making? I figure that I am around 275 maybe as high as 290. Running headers, dual exhaust, head work, electric fan, pulleys, and a K&N. This year I would like to get new heads, but AFRs are out of my budget. Was thinking of the GT40p because they are fairly cheap and flow pretty good. I hear that you can get away with using the explorer/mountaineer spark plugs and 90* angle wires on the GT40p heads. I have a Mountaineer (my wife's) so I have been comparing the two. Some day I will unbolt one of the stock manifolds on that thing and pull one of my headers to see what doesn't jive between the two.

Panteraman, I miss the old Mustang 5.0 days too. I had a '93 GT. Did a lot of work to it. Used to pull low 13's/high 12's at the local grudge night up here in NH.

Good luck with you truck. Let us know what you did and how it worked out.

Oh yeah. Here is a link to show you how to install an electric fan.

http://www.brembs.net/cars/el_fan/

 

Swirk, do ya still have a stock bottom end?

Oh no, I wish I had those heads. The IRS is really ripping me now so, no money for a while. I have seen around 300rwhp from a <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">302 </a>with bolt ons, those AFR heads, and a mild cam/intake.

I would just skip over those GT-40P heads for some of those vintage ones. They flow like true GT-40 irons but are way cheaper. With the old heads or GT-40s you can use any style of header/manifold.

Here is what is in my '88 F-150...50 Series Flowmaster, 3" CarSound cat, 2.5" Y pipe w/ 5.0 Stang headers, Built AOD, TransGo shift kit, BBK FP Regulator, ASP Underdrive Pullies, FMS MAF Kit, 80mm meter, K&N FIPK, MSD 6AL and Coil, FMS 9mm wires, NGK plugs, Goodyear Hi-Miler hoses.

I am sitting on 4.10's, Eaton Posi w/800lbs springs, Ratech install kit, TFS girdle, new fuel pumps/senders, big ol' Y collector w/ a few mandrel bent 2.5" L shaped pipes for Long Tubes, and Earl's stainless brake lines. I also have a set of BBK equal length shorties in the garage I need to get on ebay to sell so I can fund the MAC long tubes.

I am tired of that Flowmaster on there and probably going to switch to a Magnaflow or Dynomax Ultraflow...better flow and less resonation (that is whats annoying me). I will go to a 2.5" y-collector to a 3.5" outlet to the cat to the muffler. Going with some nice hidden tips this time too.

 

Stock bottom end.

Oh yeah forgot that the previous owner installed a roller cam and lifters on the motor. Not sure what grind, but it says <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">Holley</a> on it.

Here are the details of what is in my truck:

I have BBK pulleys, 2.5" y-pipe (so not true dual exhaust) , no cats, JBA ceramic coated headers, stock intake, stock fuel pressure and injectors and stock timing, electric fan from a Bonneville SSEi with the Hayden temp control. My K&N is the FIPK. The head work was done by a local guy, he did okay, but they don't seem to have the HP/TQ that I was shooting for. Maybe they do, I had the head work done when I swapped out my 6 for the 351w. So that was a big increase anyways. I've never driven another <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>in the truck. I have driven a truck with an automatic and 302. My truck definately has a lot more power than that. I am also running the stock 3.55s. I am also limited by the 5-speed. The Mazda has held up nicely to the 351w, but I don't want to push my luck.

Next is the MSD and then the heads.

 

But you still have the stock pistons and such? If so, I'd deck a set of heads down to 54-58cc for some compression. I believe the stock <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>compression is like 8.8:1 or something anemic.

If you got any heads they will have bigger valves than the stockers of 1.78/1.48. Decent heads, bigger intake (the <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">302 </a>truck intake flows way more than your <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">351w </a>one), and a bigger cam (you probably have a small torque cam) it will run nice.

Those stock heads weren't designed for power at all, all the money wasted on port work still won't get them up to par as a set of AFR or TFS heads.

I really need some bigger/better headers. I am using stock 5.0 Mustang ones now. They aren't the best but leaps and bounds better than stock manifolds. That is my restriction now.

I've heard that those stock Mazda 5 speeds are really strong. So I wouldn't worry about that much.