My 2000 F150 (150,000 miles) is having trouble shifting into third. Once there it runs fine (no slipping). Dealer and two other garages have said rebuild ($1600 - $3000 depending on warranty). I'm still driving it about 20 miles per day. Now the "overdrive" light is flashing (high fluid temp?). I'm trying to hold off on repairs for about a month while I scrape together funds for the rebuild. My question - would a seal conditioner be of any help? I don't think it could make things any worse....

Thanks for your opinions.

Chris

 

What is the code number?
Does it upshift to Over Drive?
Is first to second upshift ok?
I would not put any conditioner in until enough diagnostics is done to have a reasonable idea what may be wrong.
The transmission is electrically shifted by signaling solenoids and operating a pressure control solenoid on the valve body.
Sounds like to much guessing has been done so far.
The code please! Not what you think it means.
Good luck.

 

The dealer charged me $106 (Pundman Ford) to tell me the same thing two other "reliable" mechanics said based on the symptoms - but no one wanted to share any codes with me. It shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, the problem is getting into third. The engine revs to about 2800 rpm then starts to shift and "hangs up" (like it's in neutral) mid-shift. If I rev it up to about 3500 rpm and then take my foot off the gas and let the RPM drift down it will often drop into third around 1800 rpm. Once in third it runs fine (doesn't seem to slip once in gear) and also drops into overdrive OK too. The past three days it has gotten progressively worse and sometimes, like this morning won't go into third at all. This afternoon, after about 5 miles of city street driving, it started finding third again.

 

So quite driving it and get it fixed. Don't put seal conditioner. the problem is in the valve body, but if you keep driving it, you are going to do a lot of damage very quickly.

 

Sorry to hear that.
You see the value in being informed so you can't be taken over so easy and be able to make decisions.
It takes a scanner to see the code/s set, not a simple reader.
If you can find some one to get the codes for you, post them here so we can see what might be the issue.
If the problem seems to have improved it's possible it's not a rebuild job, just a solenoid that is intermittant.
I question the high fluid temperature for the present because that type of trouble is indicitive of a slipping condition, front pump failure etc.
You discription of only one gear change trouble is not that of anything that would cause high fluid temperatures in normal driving except some rise due to driving in a lower gear for any lengthy time.
Good luck.