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Anybody have any suggestions on where to have a drive shaft built(preferably in the Atlanta or Chattanooga area)? Is it worth another $100 to get an aluminum shaft? I have a 5.0 roller/efi SBF (probably about 250 horses that I might supercharge later on) mated to an AOD and a 9" rear.
wow ..no answers..myself I like steel for my shaft..but then I tend to abuse my truck with all 1hundred and 6 horsepower..any shop should be able to do it ..do you have the slip yolk for the trans ..and u joint or back half to the rear ..if you bring in parts that fit what you have ..it's gonna be cheeper .and pre-fitting makes sure it will work...
I had mine built in a local shop in Austin. because it had to be longer than any I had, its really the same cost as a new build.. that was in 2006, and it was $290.. I think I could get an aluminum one built for that online nowadays.
on Ebay there are a couple that quote 300ish.. aluminum.
usually any 'big' truck spring shop can do this. As said before, bring your parts and save some money. if you have both ends and dimensions they can build them up for around a hundred bucks... including balancing and sometimes a coat of paint... call around to a few truck shops that cater to the big rigs. They can lead you to a local reputable guy
wow ..no answers..myself I like steel for my shaft..but then I tend to abuse my truck with all 1hundred and 6 horsepower..any shop should be able to do it ..do you have the slip yolk for the trans ..and u joint or back half to the rear ..if you bring in parts that fit what you have ..it's gonna be cheeper .and pre-fitting makes sure it will work...
I have two shafts that came with the truck. Apparently one that's original and one from from an 87 T-bird(from whence the motor came??)The one slip yoke I have has a circular part (about 7" in diameter) that part is hitting my frame; I think it's original to the truck(??), but it seems to slip into the AOD tail shaft pretty well. I thought the one shaft was too long until I realized the slip yoke wasn't bottomed out in the transmission due to the circular part hitting the frame. That shaft might work, but quite frankly, it's so rusty(VERY pitted) that I'm not sure I want it on my truck.
I had mine built in a local shop in Austin. because it had to be longer than any I had, its really the same cost as a new build.. that was in 2006, and it was $290.. I think I could get an aluminum one built for that online nowadays.
on Ebay there are a couple that quote 300ish.. aluminum.
google shows a couple places near Atlanta.
Sam
Sam, Hmmm...Ebay. I never thought of that. That's why I like picking the brains of forum members.
usually any 'big' truck spring shop can do this. As said before, bring your parts and save some money. if you have both ends and dimensions they can build them up for around a hundred bucks... including balancing and sometimes a coat of paint... call around to a few truck shops that cater to the big rigs. They can lead you to a local reputable guy
john
man.. I want to live where u are.!!!! nothing goes for $100 in Austin anymore..
that was the price 5 yrs ago for a shorten fee.. balance was another $50..
(why would you shorten and NOT balance?!)..
The least expensive way I have found it to find a good driveshaft that will fit but is long, and have it shortened and rebalanced. I am in Michigan, sorry can't help with a local shop in your area. Also most shops will have a form for you to fill out or at least they will want a measurement from the transmission output shaft to the rear axle yoke where the u-joint sets when the truck is setting at ride height.
I have two shafts that came with the truck. Apparently one that's original and one from from an 87 T-bird(from whence the motor came??)The one slip yoke I have has a circular part (about 7" in diameter) that part is hitting my frame; I think it's original to the truck(??), but it seems to slip into the AOD tail shaft pretty well. I thought the one shaft was too long until I realized the slip yoke wasn't bottomed out in the transmission due to the circular part hitting the frame. That shaft might work, but quite frankly, it's so rusty(VERY pitted) that I'm not sure I want it on my truck.
The 7" circular part is a vibration dampener, and is most likely original to the T-bird, not the pickup, which is why it fits into the back of your AOD. It's also unnecessary. Find a conventional yoke that fits your trans, push it in all the way then pull it out 1". Take a measurement from the center of the u-joint hole on your front yoke to the same place on your rear pinion yoke and that will be your desired driveshaft length. (check with your build shop to make sure that's the number they want, but that is the standard) Go with a plain steel one. You're not worried about saving that last 5 pounds on your truck, and you can use the extra C note somewhere else.
The 7" circular part is a vibration dampener, and is most likely original to the T-bird, not the pickup, which is why it fits into the back of your AOD. It's also unnecessary. Find a conventional yoke that fits your trans, push it in all the way then pull it out 1". Take a measurement from the center of the u-joint hole on your front yoke to the same place on your rear pinion yoke and that will be your desired driveshaft length. (check with your build shop to make sure that's the number they want, but that is the standard) Go with a plain steel one. You're not worried about saving that last 5 pounds on your truck, and you can use the extra C note somewhere else.
yeh.. I used the steel one too.. at 436hp.. the 460's not gonna notice!
The 7" circular part is a vibration dampener, and is most likely original to the T-bird, not the pickup, which is why it fits into the back of your AOD. It's also unnecessary. Find a conventional yoke that fits your trans, push it in all the way then pull it out 1". Take a measurement from the center of the u-joint hole on your front yoke to the same place on your rear pinion yoke and that will be your desired driveshaft length. (check with your build shop to make sure that's the number they want, but that is the standard) Go with a plain steel one. You're not worried about saving that last 5 pounds on your truck, and you can use the extra C note somewhere else.
Totally agree with Merc. Watch your differential u-joint. Lots of different ones, especially with a Ford 9". Get measurements. I was told my 9" used a Spicer 1330 but found out later that it was a 1330F (ford), also refered to as a Cleveland. Larger diameter bearing caps, probably heavier for the Cleveland motors.
If you are close to a farming or industrial are where they have a lot of equipment in use,there will be some shops there that can do it. Farmers break drive shafts all the time and they are worked under harder conditions than you probable will put on it. I have had a few made though the years and i can get one made from all new parts for about the same cost as cutting and reusing old ends.
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