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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #16  
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Iv heard the bullet proff ones ddont heat up very good in the winter and its way to expensive anyway

I just put a new stock one in and it keeps the oil right where it needs to be

plan on more than 8 hours if its your first time your going to want to flush the coolant system thourghly and clean the intake manafold

Its not a rebuiuld kit you just get a new oil cooler from ford It comes with the gaskets I will find the part number

try parts guy ed he has great prices call them if you cant find it I have a had time finding anything on there site but his prices are worth it
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #17  
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rebuild kit, $213.84 plus shipping part number 3C3Z-6A642-CA

The bulletproof ones heat up just fine in the winter.
If your in a cold climate where that is a concern, you should have the cold weather kit to go with it. No problem with that at all.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #18  
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at some dealers when the oil cooler pops if it was under warrenty they would replace the moter and all hoses

just watch your degass bottle like a hawk for oil

Iv seen people on here with a 50 degree spread that hadnt poped the oil cooler yet

Just becarful cause its going to get hot and that spread you have will get bigger as the summer rolls on

sounds like whoever had it did the egr deleate but didnt do the oil cooler If its original oil cooler
you will see the honey comb pattern at the top of the old oil cooler where the two studs stick out that bolt the oil cooler to the filter assembly top

If I could figure out how to post a pic Id show you my old one
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #19  
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It's not the oil cooler I'd be worried about popping it's the standpipe in the oil filter I'd be worried about melting and ruining a motor.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
It's not the oil cooler I'd be worried about popping it's the standpipe in the oil filter I'd be worried about melting and ruining a motor.
OK, your gonna have to elaborate on this a little, please. Did I miss another thread somewhere addressing this issue?...

Oh Geeze, please don't tell me there's yet another Ford/IH design flaw that I have to worry about. This is the first new vehicle I have ever purchased... Just my luck.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by olfordsnstone
Oh Geeze, please don't tell me there's yet another Ford/IH design flaw that I have to worry about.
Don't get scared of it, just understand there are things you need to be aware about on this motor. When parts fail, you need to address them quickly and don't put it off thinking they'll go for a little while longer. About 2:03 into this video you'll see where the standpipe should be. Say what you want about Bill...but he's got some interesting carnage videos.

Catastrophic Engine Failure Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel -- POWERSTROKEHELP.COM
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #22  
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Seems like the stand pipe would be fine as long as I keep the oil <225*
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by zhilton
Don't get scared of it, just understand there are things you need to be aware about on this motor. When parts fail, you need to address them quickly and don't put it off thinking they'll got for a little while longer. About 2:03 into this video you'll see where the standpipe should be. Say what you want about Bill...but he's got some interesting carnage videos.

Catastrophic Engine Failure Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel -- POWERSTROKEHELP.COM
That clears it up now. I aint so worried no mo. Thank you for the link.
But wow...
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #24  
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well that vidio clears it all up for me

I had heard about melted stand pipe but didnt know exactly what all happens at the time you melt the stand pipe

now I do

thanks for the vidio pretty scary glad I have the sgII
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #25  
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I would also double check you scanguage codes before tearing in to it. I think the last part of the codes is the math the SC does to dispaly the codes. Probably a long shot, but worth a minute in my book. I did the oil cooler over a year ago, it is a decent amount of work and time, especially for the first time. Sure wished my Ex was shorter the whole time I was working on it.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #26  
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I got the numbers from the Scangauge web site. Are there any known issues? I'm double checking right now.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 08:39 PM
  #27  
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I notice that when entering the xgauge codes that when the cursor is at the first number and you wait a few seconds it will disappear and you can go minus to before the first number and choose from many differant math symbols and stuff. Things like pie, +,-,/,+ degrees F and so on. what does this do?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 12:50 AM
  #28  
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just make shure EOT and ECT are within a degree or 2 after a cold soak first start in morning
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 06:44 AM
  #29  
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Give the reverse flush a shot. At the very least it will help flush out any solids so if / when you replace the oil cooler you will have a better chance at success.
 
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