Ok, I think I will try to repair my fenders. Thanks for the info.

 

I want to remove the complete steering shaft and gear from my bus. How is this done?

 

It is best to remove the entire steering column. Remove the steering wheel,filler plates around the steering column on the floor and the dashboard bracket. Then remove the idler arm. Usually the nut holding the idler arm on will be stubborn to get off but it will come off is you soak it with oil. Then you need to use a fork to wedge between the frame and idler arm, again soaking with oil. I use a torch to heat up the idler arm without problem to make it expand and it will just pop off. Remove the three mounting bolts and pull out from under the truck. On a normal conventional truck most remove the cab first and it makes it easier to get the column out but with the bus you might have enough room to pull it out through the cab compartment.

 

I want to correct my above post. You won't be able to get the steering box through the hole in the floor unless you remove the brake and clutch pedals. I thought about it this morning. The way I normally remove the steering column is to either remove the cab first, which is a pain because you have to raise the cab way up to clear the shaft and the pedals usually get hung up in the hole are you're raising the cab. The best way is also a pain but, it's probable the easiest way if you're not removing the cab, raise the front of the truck as high as possible and pull the column from the bottom. You'll need a lot of clearance on the bottom to swing it out.

 

I have my motor out and the front end clip off, so everything is in the open. That what I thought a person pulls it out the bottom after the steering arm is removed. But the steering wheel and the arm are not wanting to come off......More heat more soaking with oil.....That for the info......

 

With the engine out you should have plenty of room to work with but you'll probably still have to raid the front of the bus.

The steering wheel should have two 5/16" fine thread holes tapped inside the horn recess area. Some trucks didn't have them but it's easy enough to drill and tap the holes if they aren't there. Before drilling new holes dig around with a small screwdriver, some times the holes are plugged with dirt and you won't be able to see them. Once you find the holes use a steering wheel puller to pull the steering wheel off. Also, when using a steering wheel puller insert a large bolt into the hollow shaft and use the head of the bolt to push off the puller.

On the arm you can heat it up quite a bit, just don't heat it hot enough to start melting the metal. I get them just almost red. Then you can use a pry bar and they'll usually pop right off.

 

Thanks....will keep workking on it.....

 

PUT SOME VIDEO OF MY FENDERS ON YOUTUBE. SEARCH 1949 FORD SCHOOL BUS PART1 AND 2. TAKE A LOOK.....,

 

Brien,

I took a look at the video, the fenders are typical and you'd be hard pressed to find a better set. All the fenders I've had had the same amount of rust damage. Some a lot worse. There'll be a lot more damage than shows through and you'll have to cut out more metal to get to solid metal but still they aren't all that bad.

Here's a set I did just because I wanted to, I had to replace at least 40% of the metal, including building a the entire area where the bottom pieces meet the top piece and the entire bottom 6-7 inches with the back bracing where the running boards meet the fenders. This set was a lot worse than yours and should have been scrapped but I wanted to show my boys they could be rebuilt. If these could be brought back I'm sure yours could too.