I put a new fuel tank in a few weeks ago. That was the usual nonsense, but it came out OK. Today I thought I would change the fuel filter. The line from the tank came off easy, but the smaller line to the motor will not come off. It was very rusty, and would not even turn. Worked it with PB til I broke it loose. Got the tool in and eventually the tabs released. It pulls out far enough that it must be out of the O-ring cause it leaks out gas. That sucker will NOT come out though. It is plenty loose, but either so much rust is on that little ring on the filter.....or the clip is so bent up it hangs up. I have some new clips that fit inside,so that is not an issue. I thought my last attempt would be to pull the filter out of the frame, and use the filter to hang onto to try and yank it out. Any thoughts would be appreciated...Thanks......( This is on my 98 in my sig. line)

Jeff

 

Try pushing the line back into the fitting, and reinsert the tool, twisting as you work it back in. They won't completely release unless the tool is up against the locking rib.

Even if the spring is rusted and broken, it should then still come apart. Keeping the line/fitting pressed together gives a little extra room for the tool to bump the rib.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave. That's kind of what I was thinking I would try, but I'll go and get that metal tool that looks like a scissors. I have that inside clip so beat up, even when I push it back together it does not lock. I can just barely get the aluminum clip back on to lock it that way. The O-ring is still OK cause it doesn't leak. But that thing has to come off...it's so close to coming out I can't believe it! But I have pulled, twisted and yanked for hours.....nuttin'..I'll pick up that 5/16ths metal tool and have another go at it.


Jeff

 

Well after countless hours....nuttin. It would pull out far enough that I could actually see the ring on the filter so I knew the retainer was not the problem. I had some work to do at the local independent car repair place, so I asked them if they wanted to have a try at it while I worked on their building. They figured a half hour.....I could only hope on that one. After 45 minutes they asked what year my truck was.... dumb..dee dumb dumb...so it began. They finally got it off, but the inside collar and O-ring were rusted to the filter stem.... so basically junk. I had checked on replacement ends from Dorman before hand...nothing for my truck. Long story short we ended up with a Dorman repair end that was 5/16ths on the end that snapped on the filter and had 18" of 5/16ths nylon attached to it. Cut off the old connector and spliced nylon to nylon with the barb included in the package. Worked slick and seems to be a good fix. That would also work on the other side of the filter from the tank....since the line is also 5/16ths. I have the Dorman part number if anybody needs it. My parts and time were about the same as theirs, so it was a wash on the bill. I can see where these could get rather expensive to repair when they are rusted on that bad. If I can offer any advice on this, it would be if you live in the salt belt like I do, change the filter EVERY spring, and put a little anti-seize on it for good measure!

Jeff

 

what some people dont realize is that PB is a penetrant. you have to give it time to soak in. if you woulda sprayed the heck out of that thing with PB for about a day before, i bet it would have come out easier.

 

PB Blaster might be a penetrant but you wouldn't clean your carburetor with it . These are fuel system components stuck together with fuel born gunk. I have better luck with carburetor cleaner...It's design to dissolve and clear fuel gunk.