New ip, and problems.
New ip, and problems.
Just bought a uhaul pump, only reason I changed mines because it was leaking. Now the problem I have is my mpg is bad. Next if it sits idle for a while it will smoke badly when i pull off, mostly white smoke and black smoke especially with a load. But it has power
I replaced injectors maybe 4 or 5 months ago so I didnt change them. I've advanced the ip maybe 2 dimes length form the the scribe mark on the cover, could it still be retarded. Truck didn't have this problem before.
I replaced injectors maybe 4 or 5 months ago so I didnt change them. I've advanced the ip maybe 2 dimes length form the the scribe mark on the cover, could it still be retarded. Truck didn't have this problem before.
it does still sound retarded.but its hard to say.does it seem to have a good rattle to it?
my U-haul pump (IFS) sure required more than just a two dimes width.but that doesn't mean yours will.
those marks are basically to help you know where the engine will start and run,not much more.
since your claiming it has power,you could be advanced too much too.so be careful.
it really would be best to get a meter on it.timing blind is pretty tough.
the thing is,your last ip could have been so worn out,that a new ip retarded still,could still feel much better than what you had.so it may not be advisable to tell you its retarded either.
there's a few threads around to help you get it close.just remember, nothing beats a timing meter.
my U-haul pump (IFS) sure required more than just a two dimes width.but that doesn't mean yours will.
those marks are basically to help you know where the engine will start and run,not much more.
since your claiming it has power,you could be advanced too much too.so be careful.
it really would be best to get a meter on it.timing blind is pretty tough.
the thing is,your last ip could have been so worn out,that a new ip retarded still,could still feel much better than what you had.so it may not be advisable to tell you its retarded either.
there's a few threads around to help you get it close.just remember, nothing beats a timing meter.
If it is to far advanced the rattle won't go away off idle. I got mine timed at a diesel shop and the rattle will go away when you rev it up a bit, if it gets quiet and very smooth to where there is no rattle it's retarded a bit.
I am having the same debate with my truck; we can't decide who is the retarded one. I replaced my IP and injectors this weekend and she runs but has some symptoms as yours does. I am going to call a local diesel shop and see of they have the equipment to time it and see what that brings.
So, when I was finished priming my pump and ready to crack her off for the first time, one of my many neighbors whips in on my passenger side with his little ricer with a ***-can and turbo. Like he was going to be in the Mexican mile a minute race or something. I decided to be a hospitable 'ol boy and let this kid know that he should move his rice box before it gets smoked. He said "No hablo, it OK." I was thinking, "I hope you ain't attached to that white paint job." So I proceed with cranking and I notice this clown, on his mobile phone, standing right behind my exhaust pipe. I thought: OK, "no hablo" right? WTF that means. I kept on that starter and bam! She cranked up in a cloud of smoke and injector knock sent straight from the depths of Hades itself. That little Mexican dude must have defecated his pants by the look on his face. The truck started and idled at 2K RPM, so there was some major smoke. I think that hombre has a gray car now! he won't be parking next to my truck any time soon!
So, when I was finished priming my pump and ready to crack her off for the first time, one of my many neighbors whips in on my passenger side with his little ricer with a ***-can and turbo. Like he was going to be in the Mexican mile a minute race or something. I decided to be a hospitable 'ol boy and let this kid know that he should move his rice box before it gets smoked. He said "No hablo, it OK." I was thinking, "I hope you ain't attached to that white paint job." So I proceed with cranking and I notice this clown, on his mobile phone, standing right behind my exhaust pipe. I thought: OK, "no hablo" right? WTF that means. I kept on that starter and bam! She cranked up in a cloud of smoke and injector knock sent straight from the depths of Hades itself. That little Mexican dude must have defecated his pants by the look on his face. The truck started and idled at 2K RPM, so there was some major smoke. I think that hombre has a gray car now! he won't be parking next to my truck any time soon!
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No hablo = no speak
In this case I think it means no brains too.. ROFLMAO
On a more serious note, I'm a little unsure of my timing after putting in a Uhaul pump. You really want to get it timed someplace with a meter. I'm have a meter, but still not sure what to do at this point.
Originally (marks lined up), the truck ran, but had no ***** at all, worse than the old 203,000 mile original pump and injectors. Using a snapon luminosity meter, it showed I was too far advanced, so I retarded it some, and it was better, retarded more and its closer to what I think is spec, but smokes (black) more than the old pump did while running (less smoke on start up). My EGT's seem a bit high on the highway too, although it might be due to the 2 gallons of old motor oil I've been running in each tankful (say what you want, but at $4 a gallon for diesel, I might as well burn it off).
I really haven't had the time to play around with different settings to see what runs best. Hopefully I'll have some more time in the next few weeks.
In this case I think it means no brains too.. ROFLMAO
On a more serious note, I'm a little unsure of my timing after putting in a Uhaul pump. You really want to get it timed someplace with a meter. I'm have a meter, but still not sure what to do at this point.
Originally (marks lined up), the truck ran, but had no ***** at all, worse than the old 203,000 mile original pump and injectors. Using a snapon luminosity meter, it showed I was too far advanced, so I retarded it some, and it was better, retarded more and its closer to what I think is spec, but smokes (black) more than the old pump did while running (less smoke on start up). My EGT's seem a bit high on the highway too, although it might be due to the 2 gallons of old motor oil I've been running in each tankful (say what you want, but at $4 a gallon for diesel, I might as well burn it off).
I really haven't had the time to play around with different settings to see what runs best. Hopefully I'll have some more time in the next few weeks.
it does still sound retarded.but its hard to say.does it seem to have a good rattle to it?
my U-haul pump (IFS) sure required more than just a two dimes width.but that doesn't mean yours will.
those marks are basically to help you know where the engine will start and run,not much more.
since your claiming it has power,you could be advanced too much too.so be careful.
it really would be best to get a meter on it.timing blind is pretty tough.
the thing is,your last ip could have been so worn out,that a new ip retarded still,could still feel much better than what you had.so it may not be advisable to tell you its retarded either.
there's a few threads around to help you get it close.just remember, nothing beats a timing meter.
my U-haul pump (IFS) sure required more than just a two dimes width.but that doesn't mean yours will.
those marks are basically to help you know where the engine will start and run,not much more.
since your claiming it has power,you could be advanced too much too.so be careful.
it really would be best to get a meter on it.timing blind is pretty tough.
the thing is,your last ip could have been so worn out,that a new ip retarded still,could still feel much better than what you had.so it may not be advisable to tell you its retarded either.
there's a few threads around to help you get it close.just remember, nothing beats a timing meter.
Can you check your pump and give me an estimate of how many mm or dimes it is advanced? Since we have the same pump, it might give me a ball park to start with. I'm gonna call the Ford dealer and see if they have the timing meter and can do the job but I would like to get it closer so I don't melt pistons and things.
best you can do is advance it,then drive it.advance a little more,drive it,then advance it a bit again.just keep going until you notice there is no longer any power gain,then retard it back a bit.when you go too advance (but not enough to hurt anything,as long as you moved a little at a time) you'll just notice it really loud (lots of rattle) in the cab.-irritating.
one thing iv learned is that too much advance, besides sounding really loud (lots of rattle) doesn't help a danged thing lol.
fuel around here is is just the minimum required 40ish cetane.
if you know you can find some 45-50 then you can advance more.
a lot of people think the lower quality the fuel,the more they need to advance it to compensate.it's just the opposite really.
so those claiming higher than normal advance over book specs works best,are lucky sob's lol scoring higher rated cetane fuel.not lower quality.
(if you look at the cetane-timing spec chart there in post #44.you'll see the higher the cetane of your fuel,the lower the ADTC value.the lower the ADTC value,the more advance that is.)since few people time via the luminosity method,i think they read the chart backward and that's where that misconception came from originally.-that's my guess anyway.
for more tips on timing by ear/test driving,seat of the pants style.see this post.read whole thread for timing via old school lumy method:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ml#post9927448












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