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So I just graduated college but about 3 weeks before finals (about 5 weeks ago) my truck caught fire! Any how I didn't have time to fix it then so I got it towed to by house and let it sit. I have just gotten time to repair it, so far I've swapped out the whole wiring harness, injectors, distributor (which seemed to be the epicenter of the fire) and all the stuff around there.
So all this major work has gone off with out a hitch, found a donor vehicle that was traded in for cash for clunkers and used that to swap out a lot of the parts.
The issue is that now she wont start with the key. If I put the key in at run and bridge the solenoid she starts up easy but when turning the key I just hear a click down at the lower dash. I can't tell if its coming from the area under the radio or if its starter noise that is echoing.
Any thoughts?
I have some ideas but wanted to see what you guys had to say first.
I have heard of distributors starting fires, heck I've seen it. All it takes is a small fuel leak near it, the fumes get inside the distributor, or you have a poorly connected or bad plug or coil wire. All it takes is a little spark.
On the no crank, are both your truck and the donor truck same type of transmission? Automatics have a neutral safety and backup light switch on the side or screwed in the case depending on type, manual may have a clutch switch, but probably not.
What year, engine, trans do you have? I have wiring diagrams I can look at back to 83. On the 86, I actually have the EVTM for those.
Fire extinguisher residue, good luck, I hate what powder does to an engine, when I owned my shop I had several customers bring in fairly (in the day) expensive carburetors that had been hit with powder extinguishers. They usually were junk after that.
I just had a similar situation. I rebuilt the motor and trans in my 86 f-150. Its a 302 EFI. I was not getting anything when I turned the key. Take the red wire off the "s" terminal on your starter solenoid. Connect a voltmeter (+) to it and the voltmeter (-) to the negative post on your battery. Have someone turn the key as if they were trying to start the truck. If your voltmeter reads 12 volts during the key turning its probably your starter solenoid. You can replace it for $20 down at autozone.
85lebaront2: Thanks for your advice. My truck had been smelling a bit like gas on and off and I just hadn't gotten around to fixing it yet. Makes me wish I had...
My truck is a 86 f150 with a 302 (fuel injected) and a np435 transmission. The donor truck was the exact same (down to the package and color) but I'm not sure what transmission it had, I know it was a standard though.
The wiring I swapped in was only from the connection to the injector harness to the under dash connector (tan with a bolt coming through it) over to the 3 large black connectors by driver wheel well and across to connections adjacent to the vapor catcher?(or whatever that coffee can is called).
-Dimitri
Here's an image to show you what general area I replaced (this is not my engine bay mine is way nicer looking, even covered in burnt plastic and powder)
Getting rid of fire extinguisher power is not fun, As long as it did not get inside the engine , just wash it off with some Dawn dish soap,low pressure hose(never high pressure as it can push that crap inside the engine) and some cussing.....
I got a halon fire extinguisher for that would not be a issue after the experiance I had when a engine backfired out the carb and lots of gas came with it and soaked the under hood insulation on my car.
I tested the volts with the key turned, measuring hte voltage with the positive from the red wire on the solenoid and the negative on the negative battery terminal. I got 11.6 volts. Is that too low to engage the starter solenoid or should that be fine and the solenoid is my problem?
I'm thinking if the solenoid isn't my problem I've got some bad connections that are reducing my voltage. Suck.
I tested the volts with the key turned, measuring hte voltage with the positive from the red wire on the solenoid and the negative on the negative battery terminal. I got 11.6 volts. Is that too low to engage the starter solenoid or should that be fine and the solenoid is my problem?
I'm thinking if the solenoid isn't my problem I've got some bad connections that are reducing my voltage. Suck.
Any thoughts?
Dimitri
You're voltage is fine. Replace the starter solenoid. It should fire right up. Let me know how it goes.
yeah got one from the pick and pull and it fired right up. Now I just need a new throttle cable and air cleaner. I think I have at this point replaced almost every accessory on this engine. Damn fire. But on the bright side I did it for only 200 or so dollars.
Has anyone installed an after market intake on these guys. Some sort of slick looking homemade something or other. I hate the OEM air cleaner.
I was thinking one of those over each throttle opening?
yeah got one from the pick and pull and it fired right up. Now I just need a new throttle cable and air cleaner. I think I have at this point replaced almost every accessory on this engine. Damn fire. But on the bright side I did it for only 200 or so dollars.
Has anyone installed an after market intake on these guys. Some sort of slick looking homemade something or other. I hate the OEM air cleaner.
I was thinking one of those over each throttle opening?
-Dimitri
If you take away your stock air setup you loose the "cold air" its pulling from the front grille. I have seen the K&N kits and they are too pricey. Whatever you do, I would make sure you are still pulling fresh air from a fender or in front of the grille. Putting air filters straight to the throttle body would pull heated air off of your radiator. Not exactly the ideal situation.
So.
I'm the 350 miles back home now but my truck is having a few problems.
1. My oil pressure is fluctuating based on RPMS. This happens more evidently after getting the truck heated up. At idle it goes down to the end of the gauge and at normal driving its where it always has been on the normal scale. Just changed the oil. I was under the impression our gauge was essentially an idiot light and didn't show fluctuations but I could be wrong.
2. My upper radiator hose is gurgling after I come to a stop but I do not have any overheating problems. Not even fluctuations. After market thermostat sits nice and easy at 190. My thought is it is possibly the cap no longer holding pressure?
3. My truck is bouncing at about mid RPM. In the higher rpm range it is fine but there is a noticeable buck when at the lower rpm range.
Possible culprits:
IAC Valve. I have a 1990(?) electronic controller attached to the 1986 valve body. Possible this is not controlling the opening and losing and thus the air fuel ratio is rich or over compensating to lean?
A vacuum leak.
The pcv valve is making a weird hissing noise. Has anyone heard this before? Not entirely sure what that is about. Pcv valve is about 4,000 miles old.
any thoughts on this or the above post would be great.
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